Recent content by MoleSandwich

I made a very simple stop for the fret cutting sled to make the cutting even more simple;

Received the rods, seems a very tight fit. Kinda tempted to use it as a non-adjustable truss rod but I really want to test the concept of the circular adjustable truss rod. Since I now have two neck blanks, I need a fret slotting and radius jig for the fretboard. On to the fret slotting...

I've rented a compressor and fired up the deep hole drilling jig today. I decided to place an emergency button at close reach to stop the lathe of needed. I placed the neck blank inside the tube, placed the dust collector / chip box against the neck blank, attached the vacuum cleaner hoze...

I also worked a bit on the body. Since the body is very thin, I decided to use a 'reverse strat output jackplate'. I made a template to recess the jackplate' flush to the body: The router bit was just a hair to big to do the most narrow part so I had to to the last but by hand using a hobby...

I installed a valve and a male coupling for pressurized air in the drill using a bit of teflon tape. I also installed the 'adjustable feet' to clamp the neck blank inside the PVC pipe. I also made a disc with a center hole the same size as the gundrill using the lathe, to align the neck blank...

Obviously I did not finish in time but I will update progress on this build. The gundrill I bought did not have any threads to screw in a coupling for pressurized air, so I had to tap the existing hole in the very hard gundrill. Since I never threaded anything ever, this was a bit nerve...

I made the gundrill holder today, using 12.3mm drill clamped in the Chuck of the lathe. This way the hole for the gundrill be at the exact center of the lathe; There is a aluminium tube clamp inside with an allen key bolt to clamp the gundrill. Here you can see the complete setup (right to...

Every build needs at least one clamp shot. Since there will be none for the actual bass, here you go; I glued up the chipbox that collects the wood particles during the gun drilling and acts as a support for the gun drill. I trued-up the edges using a block plane and closed the box; I screwed...

I proceed with drilling out the cavity for the pickguard and cleaning up with a router + template. I couldn't resist a quick mockup with the headless Bridge and pickup;

To shield the pickguard/electronics cavity I cut out a sheet of stainless steel to line the inside of the cavity using a nibler. I bonded it to the inside of the cavity with epoxy which also helps to reinforce the pickguard. I clamped the part using the offcut of the routing jig.

While still waiting on parts for the neck drilling jig, I started with the pickguard/electronic compartment. The 30mm thick pickguard will be inlaid in the body and containing the electronics and dummy coil. I started with thicknessing and flattening a piece of walnut with my table saw and...

Thanks for your insight, thats exact what I would be worried about when using CA glue... I can do a test on a piece of the remaining Ash to fill up a crack and finish it with the Tung oil.

Thanks. The blank is quite a few years old so I hope it behaves... fingers crossed. My initial plan was to use boiled Tung oil since I have at least half a bottle left. Probably thin it a bit with lemon oil. I was thinking of using CA glue to fill / stabilize the crack or maybe penetrating...

Finally started on the actual instrument in stead of making jigs. While waiting for some last parts for the neck drilling jig, I started with the body. I rough cut the outlines of the body with a Jigsaw and cleaned up with a router and the template I made. The body felt quite heavy even...

Not much to report except that I made a spindle sanding jig for my cheap little drillpress. I build up a spindle using m12 threaded rod and a stack of wooden discs cut with an hole saw. To have less sideways force on the drill spindel I used a big bearing to support the sanding spindle. There...