Recent content by Tubbs Anjeron

Thanks to everyone for the recommendations and also for the links to all of the existing 18-string builds. I find this kind of stuff fascinating! Definitely have more options to peruse than I expected. I figured this would be so niche that maybe one or two other basses exist, but I guess there's...

I'm basically be looking for a model that already exists to avoid the headache of a super custom build. Very expensive still, sure, but probably a lot less so. I would have got a custom Conklin if this was 10 years ago regardless of price because I love his designs so much, but unfortunately...

I've been really wanting an 18-string bass. Basically a 12-string bass with a low B and high C added. Bolt-on, flamed maple top (with a green or purple finish if possible), straight 34" scale, 24 frets, double cut, no fancy woods or anything. I have a Conklin GT-7 and want a body shape sort of...

I have a Conklin GT-7 in natural finish and I can't seem to find any good answers on Google about what cases will fit it. Anybody else have one of these monsters that can suggest a hard case for it? I'm considering a Kent Custom if there are no other options, but I'd prefer something less...

I posted a thread a few years ago asking about options for converting an existing resonator guitar into a "Resonator Bass VI". I finally ended up getting the Ozark resonator bass because I wanted a metal biscuit cone resonator body to work with, but the neck is slightly too narrow to fit six...

I own a dean resonator bass, but it's unremarkable to me. It plays well, has decent intonation and sounds fine for what it is but I want the shimmering, loud sound of a metal body biscuit cone guitar. I also have a Gretsch honey dipper which is what gave me the idea - to me it's no contest which...

Would it be possible to take a typical metal body biscuit bridge resonator guitar (similar to the Gretsch honey dipper) and get someone to make a custom 30" scale stick neck to effectively turn it into a resonator bass VI? It seems like it should be doable considering the tension would be...

Is it a .1 and .033 uF capacitor it requires or an actual .33 and .11? I can't find the .11 anywhere and there are .33 and .033 ones available.

Thanks, that's what I thought it would be when I started looking for one but I wasn't sure.

I just bought the NTMB-F preamp (not the pre-wired harness) and I can't for the life of me figure out what to get for a mid switch. Search results came up surprisingly empty. I don't know much about electronics, but I can follow a wiring diagram, so I just need to know what their 250-500-800hz...

Alright, I've got the parts I need to mod this thing now. Awesome Sauce, could you please provide that switch diagram? :bassist: edit: the wiring on this bass turned out to be a lot more daunting than I thought. Also, the pots I bought (I got two just in case) apparently aren't the proper size...

That would be ideal! Gotta get a soldering kit back from a friend of mine and the new parts first anyway.

Alright, so another stereo jack. I've narrowed down the push-pull pots to a 25k or 250k. Quite a big difference there, I've seen a lot of these switches at 250k, but then this preamp originally was supposed to have a 25k pot in there... yet it has a 500k right now. What a headache!

Thanks for the responses everybody. I had a feeling that connection was the issue with the batteries. It turns out the output jack did have a messed up connector, so that will be replaced (I'm guessing the previous owner was too lazy to get a new one). Will a mono one be okay or does it need to...

Sorry, I forgot how long they've been making these basses! I did some research and I believe it's from 2008. I have a couple of images here, hopefully they will help. Also, the previous battery snap had a wire broken so a friend of mine soldered a new snap in, not sure if that's relevant.