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I like Osmo. Well, one of my previous principals is also Osmo and he’s a very nice guy as well. Back to the product. Very easy to apply and repair and very moisture proof. I had a birch strip on the edge of our toilet sink table and it looked just like new after four years of use.

I drilled mounting holes and painted the bridge today. Looks way better than Hipshot with surrounding in my opinion. Soundwise I hear no difference.

I agree. It’s not very difficult, even without full geared machinery.

I guess some of you have had the same feeling. Something in your build is okay but still not good enough. Well, I had that feeling with the bridge. Some time (a lot to be honest) with Proxxon mini mill, drill press, hack saw, files, thread taps and sanding. Close enough to the looks of the real...

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/materials/nuts-and-saddles/nut-rescue-powder/?srsltid=AfmBOoowEl_xWzo1JASwt_pIQrIr4ovmiujZr-4ocgCejIJpA7HDc0o6 Or baking soda and ca glue.

Pretty much finished. I need longer intonation screws and of course Hipshot uses inch sized screws and I have no idea how to find out the size or if those screws can be found locally. I emailed Hipshot for help. Bass sounds very nice. Strong, clear sound with very solid feel and long sustain...

Well, since you asked… https://www.talkbass.com/threads/how-would-you-make-ovatiom-magnum-kind-of-a-neck.1688326/

Morning tinkering finished. I made the control cavity plate and finished the bridge pickup cover. I also soldered wires to the pickups and drew acrylic cover rings in Inkscape. I also made the nut and put strings on. Acoustic sound is very clear and strong.

What spare time? I’m making basses when I’m not doing anything else😀

Success! After tinkering with bucks, drilling jigs, hammering, filing, sanding and polishing I have a neck pickup cover that looks good. I’m making a black acrylic ring under the cover to make the sides of the cover a bit taller.

I’ve hammered quite a lot of copper. I bought enough material for testing. Hopefully I have something to show (or not to show) tomorrow. I’m planning to make the bucks tomorrow morning and start hammering after breakfast.

I’m going to give hammer forming a try.

Yesterday I sanded the bass to 3000 grit and polished it. Nitoraqua polishes nicely after three days curing. Then I painted the control cavity with shielding paint. This morning i mounted tuners, bridge and acrylic surroundings. Next I’m making the control cavity cover. I’m planning to make...

Pickups wound and ready for wax potting. 9mm x 20mm A5 poles in the neck, 9mm x 25mm A5 in the bridge pickup, each coil has 8500 rounds of 42 AWG wire.

As for pickup covers I’m wondering if I could press form nickel silver sheet so that I could make a small radiused sides for the cover. No need for deep cover, maybe 5mm or so. Would plywood molds work or do I need metal molds and how much pressure would it need. I guess 0,5mm sheet would be...

It’s supposed to be similar to nitrocellulose lacquer. I don’t have long time experiences so can’t say for sure. I tried to make a scratch on the inside of the Scroll bass headstock with my fingernail. No marks vere visible so it’s better than acrylic 1k spray lacquers I’ve used. And the best...

More progress. Finishing with Nitoraqua. My days with solvent based finishes are over. I really like Nitoraqua. Sprays and levels very nice, no smell, cleaning the spray gun with water. I made a test cut for the bridge and pickup surrounds with laser. I need to add some details for string ball...

So does it make sense to make the bridge pickup with longer magnets to balance the output between neck and bridge pickup?

This one goes to Bruce Johnson; if I’ve understood correct you make pickups with same structure, only difference being the length of the Alnico pole pieces. What’s the difference in sound between the two variants? Output perhaps or do they sound different?

More progress. I was lazy and ordered the fretboard slotted, radiused and dots installed. Neck has brass blocks for neck screws. Bridge block is aluminium as is the recessed neck plate. Next it’s time for fretting and neck carving.

Some progress. Body glued and thicnessed, neck ready for truss rod routing.

I have to disagree using Dremel or similar Proxxon. They work just fine, you just have to understand the limits of the tool and bit. I use my Proxxon in every build I do.

Dremel or Proxxon with 3mm bit works great with plywood templates. No need to worry about heating. You are not pushing the bit against the template, you just let the template guide the bit.

Well, epoxy cured very fast. It’s 26 deg C in my shop, that helps a lot. So I thicknessed the center strip tonight and glued the neck strips together. I also made truss rod hardware.

I made a jig for the neck strips and routed the strips. Then I laminated cf tow over the back of the center strip. Center strip is 2mm thinner than the side strips. Center strip is Khaya, side strips are Honduran mahogany. Tomorrow I’m going to thickness the center strip to 12 mm (it’s...

I bought the fretboard from https://www.guitar-hardware.de/

Million thanks to you! Drawing really speeds up my build. I have to finish my three weeks and still going bathroom and sauna renovation before starting this build. I have khaya and Honduran mahogany for the neck and okoume for the body. Bridge, tuners, fretwire and Brankowood fretboard (some...

Not in the near future. If I find the cover mold I may make the pickups, but like I said, not soon.

This one. https://docs.hipshotproducts.com/5A400-750_4_STG_A_STYLE_BASS_BRIDGE_750_SPACING_DIMENSIONS.pdf?_gl=1*oomr5w*_gcl_au*MTY0MzY3MjAxMi4xNzgyMjQwNjE0*_ga*ODI2NTc2NDY2LjE3ODIyNDA2MTU.*_ga_EVJ0ZTC1DT*czE3ODIyNDA2MTQkbzEkZzEkdDE3ODIyNDExMTMkajU0JGwwJGgw

Hipshot A with black acrylic surrounding shaped after the original bridge.

Like you said bending pultruded bar will likely not work. I’m laminating cf tow to make that back strap.

Sorry, I’m not making pickups other than for my own builds.

The idea for a Magnum came from Scroll bass. They share a lot of similarities in the body shape still being different. The pickups are interesting, I’m planning to make both pickups with four coils.

I’m planning to make an Ovation Magnum- inspired bass. I’m at the planning of the neck. The neck has 12mmx2mm carbon strip at the back of the neck all the way from the heel to the headstock end. I’m planning to make the strip by making a center piece of the neck to the correct shape minus 2mm...

I got my Scroll bass to a playable condition today. Million thanks to Bruce for all the information and especially for the tuner shafts. Build thread is at https://www.talkbass.com/threads/mpu-scroll-bass.1686416/ if some of you is interested.

First sounds are out! Somehow I managed to mess up the tone pot wiring, it acts like a volume. That’s something I have to fix later, now I’m just playing with the bass. It plays nice and sounds good too. Scroll bass has been one of the most interesting and laborious basses I’ve made...

Today I sanded the clearcoat with 3000 grit wet and dry paper and polished the body and neck. NitorAqua sands and polishes quite easy. After polishing I painted shielding paint to control cavity and pickup cavity. I really like the looks of the neck.

Today I routed the pickup cavity and glued a rosewood cap on the pickup. I’m going to wrap the coil in black cloth tape and brush clearcoat over it.

Pickup wound and potted. 9000 rounds of 42 AWG wire. I guess it will sound like a bass pickup.

I got hopefully the final clear coats sprayed. I really, really like NitorAqua. Dries fast to the touch, sands easily, levels very nice, does not stink. I’m going to let the finish cure for a few days now. I also got the pickup routing template made. I’m going to wind and wax pot the...