• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

DIY: Pedaltrain Metro CIOKS Power Supply Mounting

dinoadventures

dinoadventures

Feets don't fail me now!
Jul 10, 2015
4,305
27,083
Dallas, TX
#1
So as you folks know, Pedaltrain has put out some new small/medium boards, the Metro series. I recently grabbed one as I wanted something slightly larger than my Nano but with greater real estate comes a larger number of pedals and so I needed to mount a larger power supply than the CIOKS DC5 I had been using. The Metro series presents an interesting challenge in that it has a channel for the power supply formed by a longitudinal beam on the edge of the second rail, effectively imposing the same width restriction as a Nano. I love the noiseless transformer in the CIOKS DC series so I chose a DC10 to give me all of the connections I need for this board, including an 18V to my Cali76. When installed to the board, however, the terminals on the DC10 are impeded by the cross beam and the height of the power supply so we're going to need to make some revisions.
After measuring and drilling the holes for the power supply, I drilled out the rivets holding the stock feet on and removed them. I drilled pilot holes and installed Peavey brand large rubber amp feet on the board (~$5 from Amazon) with the supplied screws. This gave the board additional ground clearance.
Next, it was time for surgery. I masked off and marked the area with masking tape and marked what was to be removed with pencil. Using a Dremel with a reinforced cutoff wheel cut away the material and then used a grinding wheel to deburr and soften all of the cut edges. I then set the jumpers on the power supply, routed the power cable (not removable once mounted), and fastened the power supply to the board. Everything works great!
IMG_20151121_162455696_HDR-picsay.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: alanhasradar, osv, XLunacy and 5 others
#2
Good job, @dinoadventures !
Looks like Poul (Cioks) needs to make a couple of revisions to the DC10:
  1. Move the dip switches to the 'top' of the unit (like the DC5). This would help with any type of Pedaltrain board.
  2. Move the A/C cord connector to one side of the unit rather than the back.
He just might be open to the idea if you suggested it along with your 'build log' & pics. :thumbsup:
 
#5
Testing123 said:
Good job, @dinoadventures !
Looks like Poul (Cioks) needs to make a couple of revisions to the DC10:
  1. Move the dip switches to the 'top' of the unit (like the DC5). This would help with any type of Pedaltrain board.
  2. Move the A/C cord connector to one side of the unit rather than the back.
He just might be open to the idea if you suggested it along with your 'build log' & pics. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I honestly don't mind it as is. I think the reason it's on the back is because of the size of the transformer and number of outlets. The outlets have to be on the long side and push the transformer back so it makes sense to put seldom used things where he did. I don't often even flip my board over let alone reconfigure the switches (which mostly just assign voltages to one pair of outlets anyway).
 
#6
dinoadventures said:
I honestly don't mind it as is... I don't often even flip my board over let alone reconfigure the switches (which mostly just assign voltages to one pair of outlets anyway).
Click to expand...
Interesting. I tend to experiment with the pedals I currently have as far as placement in the chain and also trying to add a new one here and there. This sometimes necessitates dip switch changes. But, I'm pretty new to this whole pedalboard 'thing' so I'm still in learning mode. :)
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back