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? for Fender Bass Users Who String Top Load

GK Growl

Inactive
Dec 31, 2011
1,283
1,126
After giving up bass fow awhile, I'm back to playing again. I have noticed that in the past decade, a lot has changed with string manufacturing, in particular with the winding length of strings. With that said, I've noticed that certain manufacturers like DR wind their strings on the long side and on a Fender style bass strung through the bridge this causes the large windings to be forced onto the tuner which is not good. I've broke (2) Lo Riders E strings because of this and I can only imagine that a Fender style 5 string with a DR B string would be a nightmare. D'Addario "Long Scale" EXL seem to be perfect, with the taper starting right after the string leaves the tuning post. Even my old favorite brand, the long scale Rotosound Swing Bass 66 sets have the larger wrapping (and all the red silk) ending up around the tuning posts. It never use to be this way. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I'm pretty satisfied with the EXL D'Addarios that I have now but I would like to do some string experiments but I can't do it if a lot of the sets are like the DR sets. Way too long for Fender style basses strung top load. Please give me some suggestions. I know that I can use any of the D'Addario long scale sets with good results. Thanks!
 
Hey, GK, found the same problem with my GHS Brite Flats (.052-.103). The wound portion of the strings go at least 1" past the tuner posts.

The GHS website states that Precision Flatwounds (long scale) are even longer.

So I'm trying to trade my Brite Flats. I've never used them, though I hear good things about them.

I also use GHS Pressurewounds (.044-.102) which do not have this problem.

I'm afraid it will be a process of trial and error.
 
I use DR's and string through the bridge. I have also used TI's alot (also made very long) on a fender and strung through the bridge. In both cases the only string that gets some of the thick part on the tuner post is the E and even on that string not very much of it goes on. That should not in anyway cause a string to break. Where did the string break exactly? Frequent string breaking issues are often caused by the bridge saddles.
 
I totally understand what you are saying and to be honest in this day and age where everyone has string though body instruments almost all string manufacturers are making the sets slightly longer and this is a very very common issue. I have never had any ill effects from wrapping the thicker part of the string around the E. Here is a photo of my Lakland headstock. This is strung with DR Sunbeams and you can see that some of the thick part is wrapped around the E peg but the rest are fine. I have been doing this for years and never had a string break or any other issues.

bdb43afe.gif
 
It's never been a problem on my Fenders. I've got GHS Precision Flats on all my Fender now, but the two top-load ones have had DR Sunbeams and Hi-Beams on them from around 1999 until about 2003. Never had a problem with the small part of the thick part of the winding going around the tuning machine post. It was never a problem with the original Fender flats (850s) back in the '70s either. If you're careful with restringing and you wrap the winding carefully it won't cause a problem with the large-barrel Fender-style tuners.

It's a very real potential problem with smaller barrel tuners like the Schaller M6 however.

John
 

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