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i'm fixing a hole...............

johnk_10

vintage bass nut
Inactive
Commercial User
Feb 16, 2008
21,240
23,636
Washington, Utah
johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com
Disclosures
John K Custom Basses
i just finished restoring a vintage p bass for a TB member and i thought that i'd post some pics of what it needed to be put back to stock.

the bass was sent to me from its owner thinking it was a '62 p bass for the 30+ years that he's owned it. at one point in its life, someone decided to convert it to a PJ (with new fralin p and J pickups), add a side mounted jack, strip it's original 3TS finish and shoot it with a thick fiesta red poly finish. it also had a schaller bridge added to it instead of the original ribbed saddle type. they actually did a nice looking refin, but it was really thick and IMO, just should have never been done in the first place (a big 'NO,NO in my book). the lucky thing was, he also sent me bass's original P pickup with it's brass shield plate. the thing is, the owner wanted it put back to a 3T sunburst, so i knew that i'd have to inlay a piece of matching alder to cover the route completely. fortunately, the original tort pickguard wasn't drilled for an extra hole (pot) with the side mounted jack, and it was in great shape.

here's a few pics of the body once a diassembled it to get it ready to strip. (i wish i would've taken the complete 'before' pic of the entire bass).

SS59pbassbody-01.jpg


SS59pbassbody-02.jpg


SS59pbassbody-03.jpg


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whatever type of paint it had, even my strongest strippers couldn't even leave a mark or slightly soften it, so i used a heat gun to carefully soften it and scrape it off. here's a few pics of it after i lightly sanded it with 220 grit. BTW, the body was noticeably lighter without the red paint, now weighing in at at 4lbs 3 oz.

SS59pbassbody-05.jpg


SS59pbassbody-06.jpg


i was pleasantly surprised to see the original date marking in the pickup cavity, making this bass's date 12/59.

SS59pbassbody-07.jpg


unfortunately, i didn't take pics of the alder block that i made to fill in the jazz bass pickup route, but it was a simple straight forward process. i made an alder block the same size and shape as a jazz bass pickup and glued it in. i then made a template of all of the original bridge mounting and pickguard screw holes so i'd be able to redill them later.

i then routed a 3 3/4" wide, 1/4" deep channel on the face of the bass from the pickup cavity to the butt end of the body and inlaid a piece of alder matching the color and grain as best i could, block sanded it flush with the body and redrilled the bridge and pickguard holes that were covered up by the new alder inlay. i got lucky and also got the bridge's ground wire hole to line up perfectly with the original one.

SS59pbassbody-10.jpg



then i took another piece of alder and lined it up with the body to determine the way that the grain would align with the body's grain and made a dowel for the side jack hole. this way it will expand and contract in unison with the body over the coming years.

SS59pbassbody-11.jpg
 
thanks!
here's the rest of the restoration:

Once the body was sanded smooth and all of it’s small dings filled, I mixed up some bright yellow toner with a tiny bit of opaque white toner and stained the bare wood yellow. This is how the original’s in the late 50’s – mid 60’s were done. (and this one was done that way originally). Then I shot two coats of fullerplast over it to seal it:

SS59pbass-sealedyellow-01.jpg


SS59pbass-sealedyellow-02.jpg



Next, I shot the nitro burst after looking at a lot of pics of 1959 and 1960 burst p basses. Once I was happy with it, I sealed it with 8 coats of clear nitro. Here it is out of the booth hanging outside to dry in sunny southern California.

SS59pbass-burst-01.jpg



I baked the finish 24/7 at 100 degrees for 10 days and it fully cured so I then buffed it out:
SS59pbass-burst-07.jpg


The owner and I decided that since the neck and pickguard are original we didn’t want the body to look ‘too new’ in contrast, so I barely added a lot of swirl marks to the highly polished body to give it an earthier feel. he didn’t want me to relic it (with dings, checking and wear) so I went for more of the ‘closet classic look.

After adjusting the neck, leveling recrown and polishing the frets and cleaning re-oiling and polishing the fingerboard, I mounted it back onto the body. I also replaced the Schaller bridge with a new ’62 american reissue fender vintage one.

SS59pbass-burst-08.jpg


SS59pbass-burst-10.jpg


The bass’s pots were original fender CTS ones, but dated to ’77, so I cleaned them with caig deoxit and rewired the original pickup to them and the switchraft original output jack. The bass was missing its original aluminum pickguard shield plate so I just used an AV RI one for it.

SS59pbass-burst-13.jpg


As per his request, a new set of Daddario nickel rounds were installed along with the two original chrome barrel knobs.

SS59pbass-burst-17.jpg



And here’s she is fully completed, back to her former glory. I gotta say, this bass is the holy grail of p basses at 8lbs 3oz (it’s light) and rings like a piano!

SS59pbass-burst-14.jpg


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IMO, the stock pickup is WAY better than the Fralin and the owner called me to say that he can’t believe that it’s the same bass. When he got it back, he told me that he played for 3 hours straight, and just couldn’t put it down. I told him that it’s not magic that it has become that way, it’s just the way it once was. ;)

i also told him to just play the heck out of it so that the body will 'catch up' with the rest of the bass's patina, and he said that he wouldn't have any problem with doing that. :D
 
Wow! No one can tell this bass had a J-pickup installed! Awesome!

It's typical that many old basses have been taken apart an repainted, new hardware emg pickups, active electronics and...uh..:crying: It's should have been illegal! But, when they did that kind of things, a 60's fender Jazz or P-bass where just 20 year old boring stock basses... (of course they aren't) Everyone with an old Fender that have been abused by the 80's should send it over to you! JohnK
 
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Wow!
What a rescue.
In some of the last photos it looks like there is a light line under the E along/near the patch line. But that isn't there after the Fullerplast shot. Is that a reflection of the string?
Bill

yep Bill. that's just reflection. the seam is actually in a different place than the reflection. the seam is on center with the two bridge cover mounting screws and is basically invisible.

That's just great.

Tell me, John -- in the past you've said that you rout freehand, without templates. What about that 1/4" pocket for the surface board over the lower body?

yep, i scribed a straight line on each side with an exacto blade and tyhen followed that by hand with the router without a template.

BTW, thanks to everyone for the kind words.