made up some a wenge pickguard and ebony control plate for the jazz. If anyone is interested I can try post some tips on how to make these up.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
jazz with wenge pg and ebony cp
- Thread starter Hawkbone
- Start date
made up some a wenge pickguard and ebony control plate for the jazz. If anyone is interested I can try post some tips on how to make these up.
Very nicely done, congrats!
Very cool but I personally think it would've looked better if both the pickguard and control plate were made from the same wood, be it ebony or wenge. Great job though.
yeah, I've been wondering about that. My idea was to have both neck woods on the body - ebony cp, wenge p/g, ebony fb, wenge headstock. I think it will look better once the wenge darkens, but in hindsight I think would have just done all ebony.
made up some a wenge pickguard and ebony control plate for the jazz. If anyone is interested I can try post some tips on how to make these up.
Beautiful! If you ever decide to make another I want one for my 62RI. Just beautiful.
Build tips as requested:
P/G
- I used a 6" x 3/4" wenge board that was cupped and twisted (off to a bad start).
- Ripped it into two 3" x 3/4" pieces, then into four 3" x 5/16" pieces on the bandsaw.
- Planed it to about 0.27".
- Jointed the edges and glued (I used CA glue) it up into a 9" x 12" panel.
- Planed the panel down to ~0.2" and sanded with orbital sander.
- Traced out my old p/g and marked the hole centers (Lee Valley has a great tool for finding and marking hole centers Veritas® Optical Center Punch). In hindsight I should have just scanned my old p/g into CAD and drew up a template to use. Would have been easier, but either way works.
- Hand sanded/rasped to final contour. Used a chamfer router bit on the edges. Used a cove bit to get a recess to fit under the extended fingerboard.
- pup cutouts - I used forstner bits for the corners and mounting screw shoulders (can't think of a better way to describe them just now), then connected them using a coping saw. Rasp to get final shape. If I were to do another now, I would try a Dremel Trio.
CP
- Used a guitar FB blank.
- traced out old CP, and used spray paint to transfer the holes to the ebony. I then used the Lee Valley tool to mark the centers of the holes.
- Forstner bits to drill the recesses (I have an Audere pre, so the recesses are meant to hide the o-rings).
- Bradpoint bits to drill the final holes.
- Chamfer bit on the router for the edges.
- Countersunk all screw holes and the LED hole.
That should cover it. If I do another I will be sure to take more pics and update this thread.
P/G
- I used a 6" x 3/4" wenge board that was cupped and twisted (off to a bad start).
- Ripped it into two 3" x 3/4" pieces, then into four 3" x 5/16" pieces on the bandsaw.
- Planed it to about 0.27".
- Jointed the edges and glued (I used CA glue) it up into a 9" x 12" panel.
- Planed the panel down to ~0.2" and sanded with orbital sander.
- Traced out my old p/g and marked the hole centers (Lee Valley has a great tool for finding and marking hole centers Veritas® Optical Center Punch). In hindsight I should have just scanned my old p/g into CAD and drew up a template to use. Would have been easier, but either way works.
- Hand sanded/rasped to final contour. Used a chamfer router bit on the edges. Used a cove bit to get a recess to fit under the extended fingerboard.
- pup cutouts - I used forstner bits for the corners and mounting screw shoulders (can't think of a better way to describe them just now), then connected them using a coping saw. Rasp to get final shape. If I were to do another now, I would try a Dremel Trio.
CP
- Used a guitar FB blank.
- traced out old CP, and used spray paint to transfer the holes to the ebony. I then used the Lee Valley tool to mark the centers of the holes.
- Forstner bits to drill the recesses (I have an Audere pre, so the recesses are meant to hide the o-rings).
- Bradpoint bits to drill the final holes.
- Chamfer bit on the router for the edges.
- Countersunk all screw holes and the LED hole.
That should cover it. If I do another I will be sure to take more pics and update this thread.
Tis indeed! A Model J (Dp123). The neck pup is a Nordstrand NJ4SE. I wasn't sure if I liked it as much as the Dimarzio it replaced, but I lowered it a bit and it seems much warmer sounding now, so I think it's a keeper. Still a big fan of the Model J though.
Latest posts
-
Post a funnier picture than the one above - Parallel Universe Edition- Latest: edmidlifecrisis
-
-
-
