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READ THIS FIRST: Drop Tunings

pablomigraine

pablomigraine

Commercial User
Feb 9, 2005
3,458
611
New York
neuraldsp.com
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Director of Commercial Sales - Neural DSP
#1
I see lots and lost of posts like "what strings for drop B" and "what strings for drop C" etc.

Here's my experience from 10 years of playing and touring with altered tunings.

Find a brand you like that sells SINGLES (Ernie Ball, DR etc). Buy a medium or heavy gauge 4 string set; 105 - 45 or 110 - 50,

Toss out your E string. Buy a Single Extra-Lite B string from the same brand. Use this for your lowest string.

for Drop C I use DR Lowrider Heavy 50 70 90 110, toss the 110 and Buy a single 120

For Drop D I use the DR Lowrider Mediums 45 65 85 105, toss the 105 and Buy a single 110

This is the only way to get consistent tension in these tunings. A regular 100 E string detuned two whole steps will not play well, will create unwanted string noise, and most importantly, will not stay in pitch. A regular E string tuned down two whole steps, when plucked, will ring as much as a half step sharp, and drop a half step flat before centering at pitch. When playing fast tempos the result is, you always sound slightly sharp.

My $0.02
 
#5
excane said:
Good advice.

A 35" scale bass also does wonders to help the tension in severely dropped tunings.
Click to expand...

Ive found Drop tunings to be very uncomfortable on a 5 string. If you're talking Drop C, the only options are tuning the B string up a step, and the rest up 2 steps, which is awful, or dropping your E string to D and the rest down a step, equally awful and leaving your B string useless.....
 
#6
pablomigraine said:
Ive found Drop tunings to be very uncomfortable on a 5 string. If you're talking Drop C, the only options are tuning the B string up a step, and the rest up 2 steps, which is awful, or dropping your E string to D and the rest down a step, equally awful and leaving your B string useless.....
Click to expand...

On my MTD 435, (35" scale) I used to drop all the strings one whole step, then detune D to C. (occasionally to B)

I played in this tuning almost exclusively on this bass for a few years. I experimented a lot with string gauge and tension and in the end just wound up using regular 'ole Slinky's.
 
#8
excane said:
On my MTD 435, (35" scale) I used to drop all the strings one whole step, then detune D to C. (occasionally to B)

I played in this tuning almost exclusively on this bass for a few years. I experimented a lot with string gauge and tension and in the end just wound up using regular 'ole Slinky's.
Click to expand...

When I refer to "drop" tunings, Im speaking specifically about tunings involving the lowest string being one full step down from standard in relation to the rest of the strings.

DROP Tuning would be

DADG or CGCF

Altered Standard tunings would be

DGCF or BEAD
 
#9
I almost agree with everything Pablo says, except for drop C tuning I use Dr Lo Riders in .045 .065, .085 and .115

The .120 seemed too big for me, and created all sorts of weird overtones that I didn't like. The .045 ~ .085 hold their tension just fine tuned a whole step down, with rediculously low action to boot. With that set of strings I described above, I can do drop C, drop D, and even standard tuning.
 
#15
By getting a .120 as lowest string on a CGCF tuning (basically as mentioned in the OP), I'm assuming that it's supposed to fit without adjusting the nut, right?

If it does indeed fit, wouldn't you be able to get a good BEAD tuning with the normal 5 strings (ditching the G) (on a 4 stringer) without adjusting the nut? Cause I heard you needed to lime it to get the strings to fit correctly. I've never tried it, yet.
 
#19
OP, where can i find the nickel lowrider heavys at? Right now i have a fresh pair of medium lowriders on. I just had my bass professionally cleaned,setup, and installed a hipshot tuner on her as well. It was suggested that i go with a heavier gauge string for the tunings i play in(D standard/Drop C, and the style of music im playing(heavy metal/rock). I just jammed with the mediums on and they sounded great to me heard every note clearly and the tension was fine. I know the "E" string will get looser in time.

They said the larger guage will also give my sound more "oomph". So does the heavier gauges provide both a louder,fuller sound "oomph" AND provide a less floppy string? Are those the only advantages? Like i said i cut through just fine and didnt have a problem with muddy notes or string tension
 
#20
Outlaw_son said:
OP, where can i find the nickel lowrider heavys at? Right now i have a fresh pair of medium lowriders on. I just had my bass professionally cleaned,setup, and installed a hipshot tuner on her as well. It was suggested that i go with a heavier gauge string for the tunings i play in(D standard/Drop C, and the style of music im playing(heavy metal/rock). I just jammed with the mediums on and they sounded great to me heard every note clearly and the tension was fine. I know the "E" string will get looser in time.

They said the larger guage will also give my sound more "oomph". So does the heavier gauges provide both a louder,fuller sound "oomph" AND provide a less floppy string? Are those the only advantages? Like i said i cut through just fine and didnt have a problem with muddy notes or string tension
Click to expand...

What gauge is your E (D) string now? I don't believe you'll notice any more "oomph" with a thicker string. In fact, the more wraps around the strings core, the less harmonic content and treble you'll get. Generally speaking if you have the choice between a longer scale and a thicker string... go with longer scale length.... but obviously one is far easier than the other. Do some research... some strings are made with a thicker core... which is preferable to more wraps. Check out CIRCKLE K STRINGS.
 

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