Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Learning to use a router?
- Thread starter tekhna
- Start date
Get some template and flush trim bits if you don't have any and learn to use those. They are probably the most important. You may also want to learn how to use bushings. Some router templates require them.
- Jun 6, 2004
- 6,351
- 543
- 66
- Disclosures
- Owner and builder Clementbass
Another tip is to NEVER, EVER pickup up a router when it is still spinning.
I learned this the hard way a long time ago. They gyroscopic effect turned the router bit right into the piece I was working on and took a BIG ugly hunk out of it.... sheesh.
Yeup, plenty of good books and guides out there on router safety and usage.
:^)~
I learned this the hard way a long time ago. They gyroscopic effect turned the router bit right into the piece I was working on and took a BIG ugly hunk out of it.... sheesh.
Yeup, plenty of good books and guides out there on router safety and usage.
:^)~
George Looney said:
Thanks, that was very useful. I have a lot of time over christmas break, so this is part of my goal to teach myself some woodworking skills.
So when you guys do something like route out pickups, do you set the depth you are routing on the router, and then use a guide, or do you use a template and guide bushes to get the job done?
I use a template and bushings for mine. You pretty much have to for pickup cavities because you will need to use a 1/4" bit for the corners and you can't get a 1/4" template bit with a bearing, so you have to use bushings.tekhna said:
BassWhore said:
Actually, you can do like I do and just use a ¼" bit for most all of the inlet jobs. Mine has a ¾" cut depth so I just let the smooth shoulder ride against my template. I use hardened MDF templates so it works perfectly. No need for a bearing and no need to switch bits. I plunge to hog out and then cleanup around the perimeter.
That would work too. I am guessing that you make your own templates? The one I am using is made of some hard plastic or acrylic. I bought it online. Bad things......Hambone said:
FWIW:
Sharp bit, thin cut, hi speed.
I'm not a luthier and I wasn't doing precision cutting but the mistake I made was taking too big a bite. Hadn't used a router in years and I assumed that a bit 3/4" wide would take a 5/8 cut anyway - which it will but it's not bit friendly in the process and is prone to dragging rpms down. I torched a bit before I was through the first bass. Bit's can be expensive and can be trashed quickly.
Out of curiosity, do you guys have any tricks on basses with hard finishes, something to get through the finish coat first?
Sharp bit, thin cut, hi speed.
I'm not a luthier and I wasn't doing precision cutting but the mistake I made was taking too big a bite. Hadn't used a router in years and I assumed that a bit 3/4" wide would take a 5/8 cut anyway - which it will but it's not bit friendly in the process and is prone to dragging rpms down. I torched a bit before I was through the first bass. Bit's can be expensive and can be trashed quickly.
Out of curiosity, do you guys have any tricks on basses with hard finishes, something to get through the finish coat first?
luknfur said:
Bits that specifically have "mill ends" are good for this. That means they have a honed cutting surfaces all the way across the face (end) of the bit. Most wood bits, even those sometimes used for plunge cutting, don't have a complete set of cutters on the face. You can get these from places like MSC or Grainger or directly from CNC router bit manufacturers like Onsrud.
And after the 2x4's go find some hardwood scraps (some local lumberyards carry 'em) and try routing those. Very different from a 2x4 (doug fir is a fairly soft wood that gives easily, cherry feels a lot different under a router)
They can be very useful and dangerous tools.. I would suggest a router book or two first. Read and reread the safety chapter. After you understand the chapter, read it again. I'm not being funny. The chunk of wood Bass Kahuna took out of his bass could have been his arm or chest. Be careful and have fun.
every species of wood machines a little differently, so when your first working with a new species it's important to go slowly and cautiously. some woods like mahogany machine beautifully... others like wenge can splinter badly.
also, always always always brace the router firmly with a ready stance. if it does catch and jump, (and sooner or later it will) being alert and ready to absorb the kickback with your arms can save you from serious injury. accidents in the woodworking are 99.999% user error, so take care. when your bass is finished, you'll enjoy it more if you still have all ten fingers.
also, always always always brace the router firmly with a ready stance. if it does catch and jump, (and sooner or later it will) being alert and ready to absorb the kickback with your arms can save you from serious injury. accidents in the woodworking are 99.999% user error, so take care. when your bass is finished, you'll enjoy it more if you still have all ten fingers.
Lucky guy, just made a cut in the workpiece - still got his ten fingers, and all his guts...Bass Kahuna said:
Yeah, there are stories about guys who took the router up with the bit spinning - and got it into the guts. Nasty...
Another VERY important issue concerning the gyroscopic effect of a router is the start up. These things go from 0 to 20,000+ in less than a second so there's a lot of torque the instant you hit trigger. Make sure the router is braced against something or you at least have a really good grip on it. It could potentialy jump out of your hands if your not holding onto it fairly tightly.
