Car polish

I just used Turtle Wax polishing compound on a bass and it worked great. It comes in a white plastic can with a green label. Don't get the rubbing compound, I think it is more abrasive.

I was able to get rid of some scuff marks from the headstock of my Epi Rivoli (polyurethane finish) using Meguiars Swirl Remover. I can't see any difference between the treated area and the rest of the finish. it turned out nicely.

I bought a scratch remover, I forget which kind...Nu-something in an orange bottle, and it worked fine on some light scratches on my Fender Jazz (polyurethane finish). That is actually what the people on the Fender Hotline recommended.

But BEWARE: I have some deeper scratches on the end of my bass by the strap that I tried to buff out with this solution and a dremel w/ buff pad. DON'T DO THIS!! I actually chipped off some finish on my tobacco burst. I think that probably the thing goes too fast and therefore got too hot? I'd stick w/ buffing the scratches out by hand. Unfortunately, I am stuck with scratches AND and chip in the finish.

gg

interesting thread, the removal of scuff marks intrigues me since my bass is over 10 years old and has a scuff or two.

would there be a reason to use car polish over regular guitar polish/wood conditioner? I use this stuff that came highly recommended from the local guitar shop that said they use it to clean all their violins and the like. It gets the bass clean, and i like treating my fretboard with it (especially since i use denatured alcohol to wipe down my strings) but it certainly doesnt remove any small scratches or scuffs.

lyle said:

I've heard several things about car polish used on basses, even taking out that slap suffing. I would like to buy and try some but it worries me if it'll hurt my finish.

Meguiar's Show Car Glaze 7 is a brand I've heard but I have a custom kubicki and wonder if anythin can go wronge here?

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Yes, car polish is fine on anything with a lacquer, urethane or polyester gloss finish. Meguiars 2 or 3 is good on light scratches and can be used by hand. No. 7 is the last step just before you wax it. For wax I like Mother's California Gold.

Well my first post was at work, and I'm home now...
The stuff I bought is Nu Finish Scratch Doctor Clear Coat Scratch Remover. I found it next to the Meguiars at the auto mart. The guy on the Fender Hotline told me to try a finishing compound to try to remove my scratches. And Meguiars is one of the brands he mentioned. Mothers is another of a few he said. However, I think my scratches are too deep to be removed.
I too am in hopes of another TBer who has successfully removed deep scratches will come across this thread and enlighten us all with good news that it is possible to do.
I'm not sure if you'll be able to see the severity of the scratches with this pic or not, but the Scratch Doctor didn't remove them. It did remove lighter scratches such as slap scuff. I'm pretty sure the Meguilars would be similiar.

Remember, when your removing the minor scratches, it is also removing some of the clearcoat finish. That's why the scratches are going away. Be careful and don't buff through the finish. If you can catch the scratch with your finger nail, your not going to buff it out.

5bassman said:

Remember, when your removing the minor scratches, it is also removing some of the clearcoat finish. That's why the scratches are going away. Be careful and don't buff through the finish. If you can catch the scratch with your finger nail, your not going to buff it out.

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Quoted for truth! I used to be an automotive painter, and he is dead on. If you can catch the scratch with your fingernail, chances are you won't get it all the way out. I would stick with hand polishing unless you have some experience with an electric buffer. Start with a meguiar's #2 medium grit compound. This will take out the bigger scratches, but leave your surface fairly dull. Then, move on to a #9. This will restore the gloss. Next, hand polish with #7. Keep in mind that this is only a glaze, and actually washes off with water. After the #7, wax it. This will put a protective coat over the glaze. Pick a good quality wax... there are many out there. As the quoted poster stated, be careful! You are actually removing a very thin coat of your finish! Be especially careful on the edges. With a power buffer, too much pressure or lingering 1/2 second too long on an edge will take the paint completely off. However, with care and common sense, your bass will be shining again like it was brand new!

This is an interesting thread. I bought some "guitar polish" recently for the first time ever. The first time I used it, I realized that it was exactly like the liquid polish / wax products I had used on cars before. I decided then and there that when it runs out I'll just buy an automotive polish next time - it's the same thing except the "guitar polish" is a little tiny bottle that is over priced.