Recent content by Arie X

Being a SolidWorks person one way to make nuts is an Extruded Boss/Base. Just draw out your complete profile then draft the top surface and string slots. Ideally IME though the slots are drafted left and right a tiny amount and the bottom is radiused using a revolved function. I think with your...

yeah, i suppose. still a lot of mfg aren't so "open source". perhaps this is why emg, eb/mm and others encapsulate their stuff in rock hard black epoxy. after all, it's just a pick-up and some pre-amp circuitry -anybody could "figure it out" right? the point of at least trying to protect your...

long form: Tolerance analysis - Wikipedia short form: accumulated variation

were i a mfg of such things i wouldn't want to hand out proprietary schematics either.

tolerance stack-up.

were i you (op) i'd scour various forums and other online sources for a dumpster grade instrument to use as a parts donor, or you can gut some other tuners and see what could be done about making the parts work. were i me (and I am) i'd make' em. the key slots are generally broached, but for 4...

not so much if they are cut cleanly, and you fill them with real wood that looks like what your neck is made from. add fine saw dust of the same wood to the glue or epoxy mix. this will help with blending.

a fine plan -for anything other than waterbased wipe on poly. for those, you are better off using a wash coat of the actual finish itself, or perhaps a vinyl sanding sealer. not 100% sure, but i think minwax makes a sanding sealer for use with wb poly. rudy4444 is a big champion of the osmo...

yeah, fret sprout is a bit of a clue of dryness/shrinkage. to be more specific, assuming that the frets were filed flush to begin with, it's an indicator that the current environmental conditions are not the same as where the bass was manufactured, and on a production grade instrument, who...

osmo looks nice and i'll have to try it someday. for a wipe on poly, a good choice would be minwax wb satin. dries really fast. easy peasy, minimal odors. i've done a bunch of instruments with it. prep wood> first coat> de-nib/cut> more coats, more cutting> final coat> optional cut> wax it up...

imo, not the best wood prep going on under that area of finish in your picture. could be a patch of winter grain poking up as the rest of the wood shrinks around it. it could be possible that the body wood isn't as seasoned as it should be. i generally tend to focus on building acoustic...

set your witness points on both basses first, then deal with the pu's if necessary. i wouldn't shim the neck to correct a pickup height and witness point issue, -that's just silly.

fwiw, i don't do fall away as i find it unnecessary on electrics or acoustics. basically at the core of the discussion is how to get the neck to conform to string excursion and maintaining a desired action whether a note is fretted (anywhere on the neck) or played open. fretting out on high...

assuming that it doesn't have other issues, then yes, once it normalizes to it's new home, give it (or have it done), a solid set-up and you should be fine.

likely it's moving with environmental conditions. more moisture tends to make instruments swell and necks pull back. often indicated by a change in tuning pitch as they'll be a little high nearly every time you pick it up and the frets ends will appear to have "shrunk" (in reality the wood has...