Recent content by bdkthunder

Thanks everyone for the input. The main idea I was thinking was to see how small I can go and still achieve sufficient volume levels that I need. I know there are lighter and slightly smaller 410 cabs but I would ideally like to try to get by with a smaller cab with fewer speakers if possible...

I am thinking about downsizing my rig. I currently have a Traynor Dynabass 400W head and Traynor TC410 cab. It's plenty enough for my needs right now playing punk in two different bands, competing with either 1 or 2 guitars. I play in small to medium sized venues and I usually play with the...

After thinking about it for a while, I decided that I don't feel like spending $400 to refret my current bass or any other regular bass I buy in the future. I want my basses to be nickel free from the start. I don't feel like buying a new or used Warwick (or any custom order bass) right now so...

@SoVeryTired, I think it would be kinda difficult to change my technique to avoid touching the frets. Another idea I thought that would be easy to try but may not work too well would be to put a line of masking tape along the side of the neck to cover the edge of the frets. @nephilymbass, a...

@SoVeyTired, the rash usually appears on the sides of my fingers between all my knuckles. My hand is making contact with the frets along the edge of the neck (near the G string) when holding the neck to play.

Rotosound has confirmed that there is no nickel in their stainless steel strings and there shouldn't be any in any other brand of string. They said, "There is no nickel present in the stainless steel we use or any other string company for that matter. The industry grade is a Ferritic stainless...

Another thing I had briefly mentioned but no one has said anything about yet is if there is any big risk of damaging the neck by doing a refret. The bass is a neck through. Is there a chance the whole bass could get ruined by opting for a refret?

The hardware on my bass is painted black so that shouldn't be a problem. And it's not like I'm holding onto the tuners or bridge while I'm playing and sweating so I wouldn't really worry about the hardware that much even if it wasn't painted. I've thought of coating the frets with something...

Thanks everyone for all the help so far. It's certainly a pickle trying to determine exactly what is causing the problems. I had a gig last night and I did notice my picking hand did get a small reaction but not as much as my fretting hand and I played one song with fingers. It's odd though...

It's mostly just on my left (fretting) hand that the rash appears the worst. My hands do sweat a lot when I play so I think it's just whatever contact my left hand makes with my other hand or other areas of my body I might inadvertently touch with it (I have recently had other mysterious rashes...

I have a nickel allergy (watches and belts cause rashes) and I believe it has now progressed to me being affected by my bass. Recently I have noticed that my hands are getting bumps and rashes after I have been playing and I believe it is because of the frets on my bass (Epi Tbird ProV). I was...

Here's a few shots from last night. Not the greatest but still thought I'd like to share.

I love these amps. I have two, a 100w combo and a 400w head with 410 cab. I love the sound, build quality and variety of features/settings/connections. They are great for the price and I see them everywhere (GTA/southern ontario) since they are made local. Lots of amps and sound systems around...

I think this reasoning seals the deal in my eyes for Music Man as #2.

This is along the lines of what I was thinking and going for. I consider Fender covers both bases with having higher end instruments with sound, quality and influence (vs. Ric and MM based on posts so far) and then with the Squier line being cheap and seen everywhere (vs. Ibanez).