Recent content by Bilko

I came across a Bucharest bass and it is a very good student bass. The one I saw was a flat back with a carved top, and it had all ebony fittings. But I just noticed that this post was from 13 years ago, so it's already a done deal. HA!

I just got a Karl Knilling Bucharest model bass in for a new bridge. It has a serial number, but I was unable to find anything online to date it. Kay basses are easy to identify with the serial number. Does anyone know how to date this bass with the model number 1724?

I like like my Yamaha Silent bass, but the volume drops as I go up the fingerboard near the octave. Does anyone else experience this issue? Now that I mention it, I should try using my K&K preamp to see if it can strengthen the sound up the fingerboard. The pickup is hidden away under the...

I like like my Yamaha Silent bass, but the volume drops as I go up the fingerboard near the octave. Does anyone else experience this issue? Now that I mention it, I should try using my K&K preamp to see if it can strengthen the sound up the fingerboard. The pickup is hidden away under the...

I fit the feet to the top plate. It just leaves thinner edges on the "toes".

I ended up building the nut slots back up with CA. I'll see how it holds up over the longterm. I put a good quality used bridge in. It improves the sound quite a bit better and less muted. The bridges that come with those basses are terrible. And I put my old Spiracore strings on and that also...

Good advice on the tail wire. I'll hold off on it. The problem the teacher had was that the nut was too low and the OPEN strings buzz! Otherwise, the bass is in good shape. But I am going to replace the original bridge with a decent used bridge I have. Pictured is the original bridge. It has...

Is it better to replace the original coat hanger wire with a braided steel wire on Elkhart basses?

I get that the block has to be level with the ribs.... I don't have any info on this bass or a maker's tag in it. it's a solid flatback, gamba corners with some shattering in several sections of the ribs and top. Even repaired, it will be a fragile instrument. It appears to be hand made as there...

There's no glue seam, the step is all one piece. Even though a new block would be ideal, I'd rather not replace the whole block unless I have to because the last neck block I made in a situation like this was a real bear. And cutting a matching groove in the top plate sounds like a bad idea...

I bought a bass with the top off that was previously worked on and it has a 1/8" step in the neck block as seen in the photo. My question is should I trim the block so that it's flat or should I carve a matching step in the top plate? I've inlaid spruce all around the top plate on the inside...

You said how far below the post should be. And how far sideways towards the rib should the post be?

I've played on this WAV4 a couple times in big bands and I find that when my hands grip the neck during playing, it can bounce around the the tripod stand. I sometimes end up putting a foot on the stand to keep it from moving around. I'm used to having the bulk of a bass to steady itself, but...

Hi All! I made a bridge for a used NS WAV4. The one that came with it was too low, so I cut up some quarter-sawn maple (dyed black) and made a solid one like the original. Then I decided to make another one with some cut-outs just for fun. The feet are pretty easy to fit, they're just flat...

You can clean the rosin off with neutral shoe polish and fine steel wool or just use a cloth with the shoe polish. Then you can put some household rubbing alcohol on a rag and wipe the stings and finger board. Don't get alcohol on the varnished surfaces. It helps remove the strings, so you can...