Recent content by DoubleMIDI

That is a raised saddle. It is used to take pressure from the top. Mostly helpful for strings that choke the vibration of the top with too much pressure (typically with older instruments that were built for lower tension gut strings and be used with higher tension steel core strings now). If...

Not neccessarily yours. The description fits to the felt as well.

Always have a silk covered part of the string that in the peg hole. Wind first away from the tuner handle with every winding touching their neighbors. Then about two to three windings before the string starts to be stretched out the string over the previous windings with a single turn to the...

They don‘t last forever but as long as the set of Spiros last. And they are only intended to be used for the high(er) string until they had broken in to mellow the sound of a new string. Therefor they are called tone filters.

Cheap is not necessarily bad, but cheap and dumb is. Expensive is not neccessarily good, but you can expect a better quality if the money goes more into R & D than profit. You might need to test more cheap stuff than expensive ones to find something that works well. And you might need...

The foam strip at the tailpiece only damps the underlength vibration as NS hardly the sustain of the played part. There is no damper that doesn’t change the sound and shortens the sustain. The most successful way to shorten the sustain without a major sound change is a moving bridge. Either by...

I would prefer getting the best sound out of the pickup before trying to correct the resonances with a wolf damping weight. BTW, check the bridge position and angle. Can have an influence too.

I tried the EAP with a band and my Genz-Benz Shuttle 3.0-10T which has a built-in highpass filter on my 4/4 5-string (high C) and I had to turn up the bass a bit whereas with the Full Circle on an amp without a HPF the bass needed to be turned down a lot. But that was a studio situation with a...

I sure have measured mine, but only on my measuring bar (one string DB without body) where I measure all my strings at 105 and 110 cm. My DB is 110 cm and measuring there would be only possible by removing the tailpiece. But in the excel file all string tension will be recalculated to the user...

You are right, the open seams can suck off some volume. Then the luthier cdn exchange the tailwire too and adjust the tailpiece length. And let him check the soundpost and experiment a bit with position. All relatively cheap things and one or two visits. If the endpin assembly doesn’t hold well...

Try turning the wheel slightly Up To 45 degrees. The loudest tone has the most resonances, which is not good. So rather try to find a position where you don’t get resonances introduced by the pickup and memorize where the cable gets out relative to the bridge foot. Probably the quietest output.

I have the Ehrlund EAP, the japanese MSP, the AKG C411 and did some experiments with a cheap electret capsule, similar to the Ischell. The MSP is based on a piezoceramic-coated brass disc. Not bad for a piezo-disc, but less good than the others. Mounting is a bit risky as the inner magnets can...

I had the old S42 (around 1987) on my bass when I was a student of CS. New bass, played once a week in a chamber orchestra (only bass player). Hardly practiced at home. Took about a year until they broke in. The newer (small change in wire by the supplier) should break in a bit quicker. I’m...

I would start with downtuning the strings by a halftone and keep them there for one or two weeks. Then one more halftone down, again for one or two weeks. You might want to use a method to keep the plucking the same like pluck as far until touching the next lower string at the end of the...

I bent the body support (upper part only) so the contact with by body is equally well on upper and lower part (looks a bit strange) and wound rubber foam around the support so it doesn’t slip too easily but doesn’t stick too much either. That way the support doesn’t press too deep into the body...