Recent content by Jaseandwave

I thought there would be wavy grover tuners on a 60s Ric?

That's beautiful, I'm jealous!

Here are pics of resistors as discussed. I reckon the only dodgy one is R6 (the brown one) certainly been changed. The other 2 in question (R7 and R25) are original I think. Should I change R6. By the way. After a bit of time and effort I've got the thing running pretty nicely now.

I've looked at the resistors and it seems they're not stock, but they're not all as the procedure posted above. R25 is 4K7 (as per mod quoted above by coreyfyfe) R6 - cant make out all the colours but there are orange and green together so 35K 350K or 53K or 530K - certainly not 220K or 47K...

Thanks, I definitely have meter on DC scale but I didn't let it warm up for anywhere near 20 mins. I'll give it anoter whirl.

Thanks, I know what you mean about the x10 thing. I'm sure i've got it set at .072V now. First time I set it the sound was very weak, distorted and quiet and after some head scratching I'm convinced I had it set to .0072V. Either way it's either weak and quiet or running hot and humming...

OK, I've set up bias as per instructions, put all the correct valves in all the correct places but now I've got a loud hum which I can't tune out with the hum pot. Also three of the 6550 power tubes are clearly running too hot - they glow blue and are very hot to the touch compared to the...

I'm going to bias first, then balance after.

Cheers, That's great. I had some of the old paper caps replaced earlier on in the year when the problems began so hopefully I can get it all hunky dory now. Quick (possibly stupid) question... Should I do the calibration with the preamp connected or not?

Thanks, that would be really useful.

Hi everyone, I have been having various issues with my early 70s Ampeg SVT (pops crackles etc) so decided to change all the valves. When I came to do the job there were all 12AX7s instead of 12DW7s. I've put all the correct new valves in their correct places but now there is a fair bit...