Recent content by michael_t

I should also add that, when it comes to flats, a set with a lighter E (.095/.100) tends to sound more balanced. I don't need or want them to be overly thumpy or thuddy, but clean and clear with good definition, and lighter gauges seem to work better (at least for me) than anything heavier.

My 69-yr-old hands are not what they used to be after four surgeries and can't handle anything too stiff. At the same time, I hate strings that are too loose and flexible. The three I mentioned above are comfortable to play on but still firm enough not to go too bouncy under my plucking fingers.

First, I would agree that the Chromes do have a metallic edge ("clank") to their tone. I think it comes from the higher-than-average chromium content (hence the nickname "Chromes") in the stainless steel used for the outer cover. As for my preferred gauges for flats, I like them fairly light...

I used to know a guy who owned a Starcaster Jazz Bass by Fender. When I first saw his bass, I thought it said "Stratocaster" on the headstock, but he told me it was a low-low-budget line by Fender below Squier.

Yamaha Canada recently had a special sale on the TRBX174. $250 CAD ($180 USD) brand new! I said to myself, "What the heck, for that kind of price I might as well get two!" The only difference between the two is the string I put on them.

I like the Ernie Ball Group 4 (40-95) Stainless Steel Flats (not Cobalt) on my Squier Classic Vibe 60's Precision. Not too old school, but a nice midrange for clarity that sits in the mix without getting lost. Very comfortable tension/stiffness without ever feeling too loose or floppy. Bass...

What kind of bass do you play? I have Fender 9050L on one of my J's and Ernie Ball Group IV Stainless Flats on one of my P's and their "semi-modern" flavors work well for what I do as a church bassist. That said, my #1 go-to string for church is GHS Pressurewounds.

The info I have is Pyramid "short scale" is around 33.5" in winding length, which is shorter than TI (35.5") but longer than LaBella (32.25"). What you can do is measure the distance on your bass from where the ball end is seated to the E tuner post and make sure it's more than 33.5".

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/keeping-roundwounds-clean-and-fresh.1376005/

Old school with comfortable tension? GHS Precision Flats Light (45-95). They're also nicely balanced tonally right out of the package. Woody warmth with focused punch. I also use the EB Group IV Stainless Flats, and you're right, they're not exactly what I would call "old school". I do have...

Three simple steps for the setup after a string change: (Make sure to follow the order.) Tune them up to pitch and check the amount of the neck relief. Tighten or loosen the truss rod as needed. Check the action to see if you might want it lower or higher. Adjust the saddle height as needed...

When it comes to flats, I find smaller gauges for A and E actually balance better tonally with G and D. I particularly like .095 for E as it tends to have better definition and clarity than anything too thick. I use three different brands of flats, ie GHS Precision Flats 45-95, Ernie Ball...

Raising the action is one option, but don't do it by loosening the truss rod as the neck relief should stay where it is; instead, adjust the action by raising the saddles. GHS Pressurewounds are more roundwound than flatwound both in tone and feel. If you're looking for a flatwound tone, try...

Pure nickel = warmer overall with smooth mids. PW (Alloy 52) = punchier with "crunchy" mids.

I was also going to suggest they could possibly be Rotosound Swing Bass 66 "medium scale". Rotosound ball end colors are red-blue-white-red (E-G).