Recent content by PlayItAway

I'm noticing the premium Soundgear basses have single string bridges, and they claim that this improves resonance by letting each string vibrate with no interference from the others. For those who've had the chance to directly compare - is this true? I'd be inclined to think it's kind of the...

Thanks for the heads up, but there are a few things I described so I'm not sure what you're referring to, sorry Could you please clarify?

I'm assuming one of those knobs is pickup blend, or a second volume? Since my bass has only one pickup, I wonder if there'd be a way to get rid of that, add a passive tone - and maybe even wire up a switch for active/passive switching. I wouldn't know where to begin figuring out how exactly this...

Oh yeah, didn't even think of EMG! I'm looking on their website now, and the BTS system HZ looks cool - were there other models you had in mind? I'd still like to be able to do active/passive switching, and I don't think I've ever seen that from EMG.

So this is sort of about two different basses that I have. The first one has a pretty interesting layout: one single P-bass pickup, but ample room for an active preamp, with space for four knobs and a switch. I put in a Lindy Fralin pickup, and had someone connect it to a Bartolini TCT. They...

This is a specific situation that I'm in, but I think it'd also do well as a general question: Where is the limit to how many bridge holes you can drill before the structural integrity of the wood gets compromised? My personal situation: bass arrived with broken bridge with a weird proprietary...

I have an Asian-made, factory-forsaken P bass that I have wanted to restore for a long time now. I'm getting more into it, and have realized there is a crack in the back of the neck. I have no way of knowing how deep it goes. If it makes any difference, it's centered around the 9th-10th...

I'm not familiar with them either, no worries. But yes, that is the trouble spot. That's not the only problem with this bridge either. The anchor holes are so high up that if you set the action to a reasonably low point, the break angle is pretty much entirely lost, so the string rattles around...

Unfortunately the string spacing is too narrow for a Babicz bridge... it's barely 16mm. Possibly even 15. Also, what do you mean by "footprint"?

Hey everyone, so I'm looking after a friend's 5 string bass which has a Wilkinson bridge on it. I couldn't see any sort of model number on it, but from some image searching I'm guessing it's some form of 3D bridge. I'm trying to adjust the action, but I'm having trouble with one of the screws...

I'm looking to buy a replacement for the cheap barrel jack in one of my basses. (I know, the old style design is best, but I'm looking to do as much work myself as possible and don't trust myself with a Dremel.) Switchcraft seems like the standard upgrade choice, but I haven't heard much about...

The pickup was given to me by a friend. I don't have the case it came in anymore, but it was a clear plastic case, not like the cardboard boxes that my new Barts have come in. I seem to remember it saying Bartolini. Anyway, it has 4 exposed pole pieces per half, just like a vintage P pickup...

Hi all, I have a Stagg BC300-FL (PJ configuration) with upgraded hardware and electronics. The pickups are both Bartolini; the neck pup is an old discontinued model that seems to be quite like a vintage P pup, and the bridge pup is a newer epoxy-sealed J model. There's also a Bartolini NTBT...

Ok yeah, that might pose a problem... it's got the 25K active/passive volume pot. Doesn't seem like a huge difference - what would happen if those pickups were wired to the 25K instead of 20K?

I have an entire pre-wired harness for the Bartolini, it's going to replace everything. That's why I'm not 100% about the wiring, because the Bartolini schematics don't count for active pickups. I'm probably going to put something passive on it anyway, just want to play around with what I...