Recent content by rickdog

As of a month or so ago, Audiopile.net was still selling cables with the good ol' blue SpeakONs.

An artist I play with was given a Bose L1 Classic system with two bass modules. The manual says it's necessary to use Bose 4-wire cables for the bass modules; the cables that came with the system are not Bose cables and one is definitely not 4-wire (it has NL2 SpeakONs). Some web searching...

No clue about the bass - but isn't the woman dancing behind Phil also in this video of Jefferson Airplane?

On my fretless I've been very happy with LaBella Gold White Nylon tapewounds (750G, .050-.105). Easy on the fingers, easy on the fingerboard, and with the right setup (almost no relief, low action) they give a pretty good mwah.

Rob Robinette's Tube Amplifier Website is great reading to start with. Find yourself a basic electronics course at a community college or trade school, and that website will be easy to understand. And no, $600 for a Sunn 100s that "powers on, but he hasn’t tested it otherwise" (which probably...

Is it possible the distortion on the 1/4" output is because it's too hot for whatever you're running it into? Maybe turn the level knob down while keeping the gain where it sounds good on the XLR?

I took the mixer back to the repair shop, they're going through it at no charge (warranty on the repair). They seemed inclined to agree with me that perhaps Mackie gear ain't what it used to be. We'll see what they find out about the ongoing problems. It might be to the point where keeping it...

That seems mighty low for the 810E - the owner's manual lists the "Usable Low Frequency (-10 dB)" as 40 Hz, that C is about 33 Hz. As others have noted, a high-pass filter is your friend; sometimes less is more.

I'm having a frustrating experience with a Mackie ProFX16v3 that's about 3 or 4 years old and wondering if others have had similar problems. It started with the "Break" switch (that mutes the main outputs) being flakey - the left channel wouldn't unmute properly, it would sometimes be...

I have a VL210. Love it when I'm playing through it, hate it when I have to move it ;) How can I tell whether it's an A, B, C? FWIW, I bought mine used in 2002, the model, power rating, and serial # are all hand-written in permanent marker.

Oh, I'm not using it for overdrive - I get just the right amount of that from my UA - I just push it enough to get more More. It's still subtle in a sense, you don't really notice it's there until you turn it off and have... less.

Not quite so subtle if you push it with a high-output bass... or swap out the 12AU7 for something with a little more gain ;)

A friend of mine has a couple of Mike Lull basses - just heard him yesterday playing a PJ 5-string (which I believe he said was once Mike's own personal bass), there was nothing "clean, polite" about his sound, plenty of raw punch (his Mesa M6 Carbine probably helped). You didn't say what...

Is there any news on this topic? Any acknowledgement from Neutrik that there's a problem? Any solution?

I've heard some commentary about why early Fender amps had standby switches... back in that time, electrolytic capacitors that could handle high voltage were expensive. The B+ voltage for the preamp stages was reduced by dropping resistors in the power supply - the plate current drawn by the...