Dang! Is there a more efficient pair of 12s or 15s that will get a descent amount more volume or should I just start doubling cabs as you suggested?
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Need suggestions for DIY 112 cabinet for Dayton Audio PA310-8
- Thread starter amgeex
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Actually, a single pair of Eminence 3012HO's will provide you with more volume (4-6db) - not sure if that would be a 'decent' amount more volume though. If you are really falling short on volume (like you're not being heard), a pair of GK 212's, or even a pair of 3012HO 212's may be needed. Then there is the question of tone. Sometimes the loudest cabs and the best sounding ones are not always the same ones.
Gotcha. I don't need sig more volume. Just a bit more. Maybe I'll do a little research on the 3012HO.
Here is some info on the 3012HO: http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Kappalite_3012HO.pdf. It does quite well as a 'full range' driver. Eminence also has a few very efficient ceramic drivers - less expensive, but weighs 11 lbs more per driver: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed].
Astro, I'll take advantage of the present discussion and ask you about a recent and seldom commented-upon Eminence woofer. How do you like the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed], on paper? It's marketed as essentially a lighter-weight alternative to the Delta Pro 12A. While I expect it won't perform exactly the same in a box due to differences in parameters, I've also noticed it goes for twenty bucks less. Worth considering? I'll do some modelling myself when I have time to enter parameters and then digest results.
Both the Delta Pro 12's are good drivers. The 12A works marginally better in small cabs. The 12-450 is a real value if you have 2.5-3 cf. The 12-450 will sound a little brighter, the 12A more hifi.
Astro, say I decided to give that Dayton loaded 212 a shot. Do you like the PE recommendation or do you have another suggestion?
The PE recommended alignment would work well. My preference would be to tune a little higher (for a more robust, but articulate bass - my preference), and to use two 4 inch diameter ports of shorter length. I prefer shorter ports as they tend to be less audible at their tube resonance (different than cab tuning frequency - much higher, so more audible). So, Fb=47 Hz, F3=54 Hz, two 4 inch diameter ports, 5 7/16 inches long. You might get by with a pair of 3 inch diameter ports, but you stand a good chance of chuffing (port noise due to port air turbulence) at higher spl's, which, even if not audible, damp the cab resonance, and decrease effective loading just when you need it. There is a wide spectrum of good alignments between about 41 and 51 Hz. I would start low and move up in steps, carefully auditioning, then install the ports I liked best.
Please forgive my ignorance here, but could this design or would another one be anymore efficient for the speakers? If I went with 2 4" ports, where would you place them?
This design is pretty close to optimum for these drivers. I would align the drivers vertically, and locate the ports between them, on the front panel, to either side of the center line.
I've got a 212 box I built with a pair of Delta Pro 12's. I can confirm they work well for bass. It works well enough that my GK 212 and 410 cabs are for sale on Kijiji.
I have them in a 4 cf box tuned to about 53 Hz.
I don't know about the DP 12-450.
Cast aluminum frame vs stamped steel frame, TS parameters are very different, lower sensitivity.
They share part of their name... not much else.
Astro, I'm prob going to go with 112 cabs for modularity. I'm leaning towards using the delta pro 12-450a-8. How will the Dayton and delta compare tone wise? If I went with them instead, is there a particular alignment and box volume you like for that driver? Also, I'm prob going to use precision ports. Would you still recommend 4" ports for those or do you even recommend those? I can use their port calculator to get close and adjust from there. I'm prob just going to tape the ports in place in case I change my mind on tuning or drivers anyway. Sorry to bug ya again and thanks a bunch for your expertise! I know I'm asking a lot. I'm looking forward to getting these going. Im going for a fairly flat neutral tone using a standard tuned 4 string p bass into peavey minimega.
The smallest cab I would use with the Pro 12-450a is 2 cf, tuned to 60 Hz, for a rich, a little fat, but articulate bass: F3 63 Hz, about 1.7 db of peaking centered on 105 Hz. You can tune lower. At 46 Hz, F3 is 66 Hz and peaking is reduced to about 0.5 db centered on 130 Hz. This also loads the driver down to low E, but opens up an excursion limited power handling sag (reduction) between about 62 and 105 Hz: down to 250w centered on 78 Hz. There is typically a lot of energy in that range, but 250w is a decent amount of power handling, provided that you are not heavily boosting the bass. At 2.5 cf, and Fb= 46 Hz, response is virtually flat, and F3 is 58 Hz. There is a power handling sag (down to 220w) centered on 73 Hz: essentially the same as with the 2 cf box tuned to 46 Hz. At 3 cf, tuned to 46 Hz, response is gently rolled (sub-flat), F3 is 53 Hz, and the power sag is 200w centered on 71 Hz (still essentially the same). It can take about 300w at low E. One 4-inch ID port is all you need for any of these alignments. They are all good, functional alignments. I think I would aim for the middle (2 1/2 cf) and try tunings from 45 to 60 Hz. The higher tunings will sound richer and fatter, while the lower ones will sound more lean.
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Thanks! I know only I can decide what's best for me, but Dang! I'm on the fence. Can't decide if I should do the Daytons, the Delta pro 450a, or if I should just pony up for some 3015 non lfs and call it a day.
