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Taylor GS Mini-e Bass

- even though they're not steel-core, they're apparently not exempt from intonation problems, as reported by Plunker (jcd866 doesn't mention anything to that effect, but he has them on a fretless).

The Kala flats are wonderful so far. They do require a bit of a break-in period.

On the fretless they’re spot on, but do stretch a tiny bit if you press and slide. Certainly much much less than the polyurethane originals. I could see where they may perhaps stretch a bit on a fret and cause a slight intonation issue, but I haven’t used them with frets so I couldn’t say for sure. They really don’t seem to stretch much but again, hard to tell on fretless.
 
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@JES:

We've been wandering about the Kala/Galli KA-BASS-4FW flatwounds you've just reported installing on your U·Bass, so I thought of asking you directly in here.

- First of all, as you point out, the E and G appear to be a little long for your Kala bass (fretted, judging from the audio clip, and hollowbody possibly?), which might be a sign of Kala wanting a one-size-fits-all for all models including the solid-bodies with their longer scale and afterlength past the bridge saddle: do you reckon these strings might work (= clear the nut, pre-silk) on a 23.5" scale instrument, like the Taylor GS Mini-e Bass?
- How is the intonation, IYO/IYE?

Thanks in advance. :)
 
I have an older passive fretless solid top ubass at a guitar shop on consignment. After his commission i would get about 110 bucks. Its been for sale off an on for a year with no bites. Like brand new. If it was fretted i would keep it if the kala flats intonation was ok.
 
Glad to help, I hope they work for you. I mentioned some installation details in a previous post; iirc I had to slightly widen the slot for the E string at the bridge (where the string emerges from the hole); the weird forked peg won’t work for the E string so I secured it the way you normally would on an acoustic, using the same peg; all of the nut slots have to be widened with a nut file; and I think the last bit was that the E is too fat to fit in the tuner (and definitely won’t fit down into the hole in the tuner) so I flattened the string end with a vise grip so it would fit.
BTW I did most of these adjustments when trying the metal Ubass string set which I think has a .110 E string. Those were a big improvement over the daddarios but to me the Silverbacks were better.
Someone mentioned other string options in a previous post, afaik all of them are nylon core with metal wrap so I assume very similar (I’ve spent enough time in this particular rabbit hole, no desire to keep going).
There was some discussion of custom nylon core flatwound sets available at $100+ per set but I don’t know if anyone has tried them.
Thanks! I did find your previous post on the installation. I've been doing a lot of TB research on strings this weekend. So much to learn!
 
Update on the Kala flats:

Strung on a Striped Ebony fretless. I’ve had the strings on for about a month with a lot of hours played.

I paid more attention to the intonation today.

I tuned as exact as I could, using a tuner and double-checking the open string octaves on the adjacent string, etc.

Using the octaves above the open strings, I slid into the notes and played the note directly. I did not hear any stretch/bend in the intonation. They seem to be very solid intonation-wise as far as I can tell. They sound very good and feel great.
 
Next step is verifying winding length, from @jdc866. Here's to hoping the lowest strings taper correctly and sit comfortably on the Taylor's tuning posts.

The winding sits in the bridge on the D string. I don’t notice that it makes much difference. Note, the bridge shim was removed when putting on the flats. I ordered the fretless U•Bass November 2019 with flats, and the shop put them on for me (can’t order with flats already on). I never used the original strings with my U•Bass, so I don’t have any specific reference for shim vs without. I believe it lowered the action a bit, but still plenty of space (maybe still a little high even).

On the tuners, there is a bit of bare wire on the G, and less on the E. None on the A or D.

Does take a break-in period to sit just right on the nut. The sound improves over time as well. These strings will need to be played for several hours before settling in (2-4 weeks of daily playing).

22B8FBCC-9BBA-41CD-A555-6120CF993C32.jpeg
5C25F65F-F41D-40B5-A7C6-BEEFA5FE95D3.jpeg

F9A6F9A0-7D3F-4ADE-8FB4-BB47708F1AD8.jpeg
 
The winding sits in the bridge on the D string. I don’t notice that it makes much difference. Note, the bridge shim was removed when putting on the flats. I ordered the fretless U•Bass November 2019 with flats, and the shop put them on for me (can’t order with flats already on). I never used the original strings with my U•Bass, so I don’t have any specific reference for shim vs without. I believe it lowered the action a bit, but still plenty of space (maybe still a little high even).

On the tuners, there is a bit of bare wire on the G, and less on the E. None on the A or D.

Does take a break-in period to sit just right on the nut. The sound improves over time as well. These strings will need to be played for several hours before settling in (2-4 weeks of daily playing).
Great info, thanks. Would you be able to measure the length of the strings from silk wrap to silk wrap? From your photos they look like they might be a little too short for the Taylor mini.
 
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I'll test one out. I love my Taylor guitars. Still, acoustic basses have always left me underwhelmed. Why not just pick up a hollow body like a Hofner?

Still, I am willing to give it a chance!
I don't have a Taylor, but I do have a Breedlove Solo Jumbo. As with any "Acoustic" bass guitar, it ain't gonna cut it unamplified. This Breedlove sounds like an upright when I want it to.
 
Great info, thanks. Would you be able to measure the length of the strings from silk wrap to silk wrap? From your photos they look like they might be a little too short for the Taylor mini.
Great info, thanks. Would you be able to measure the length of the strings from silk wrap to silk wrap? From your photos they look like they might be a little too short for the Taylor mini.

20.125 Kala scale length vs ...23.5 for the Taylor? I don’t have access to the bass at the moment but I don’t imagine you’d get an extra 3” out of those strings. Maybe 1.5-2 based on a glance at my photos. I could measure for sure tonight tho if you want.
 
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20.125 Kala scale length vs ...23.5 for the Taylor? I don’t have access to the bass at the moment but I don’t image you’d get an extra 3” out of those strings. Maybe 1.5-2 based on a glance at my photos. I could measure for sure tonight tho if you want.
That's what I was thinking, based on your photos. If it's not too much trouble to measure, it would be good information to have as they may fit other acoustic basses. Thanks so much!
 
That's what I was thinking, based on your photos. If it's not too much trouble to measure, it would be good information to have as they may fit other acoustic basses. Thanks so much!

Kala flats look to be roughly 23” between windings. It would definitely depend what distance is between the bridge and where the sting anchors are whether they would work. The U•Bass is string-through so I can’t measure the distance. Again, the winding rests on the bridge on the D string but I don’t notice any affect.

The string package says not for solid body also, FYI. No idea why. They do sound amazing on my U•Bass though. Likely would work alright on other brands that are similar format if the scale length is the same or close.
 

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