17.5mm bridge string spacing Fender Precision bass

[96tbird]

You're definitely in the minority on wanting a 34" scale 4-string with narrow spacing like that.

I'd just get a threaded-saddle bridge and figure out where the strings need to sit, then file a slightly deeper groove.

The problem with that plan is the string holes on the stock base plate are spaced at about 19mm as well. When you string up at 17.5mm the saddles will pull apart from each other from string tension and you're back to original spacing, but with gaps between the saddles. You have to bind the intonation screws together with wire or something to keep the narrow spacing. Not ideal.

If it was me, I would get a custom stainless steel base plate made in stock dimensions, drilled to desired string spacing, and use OEM Fender threaded saddles.

 

[Lownote38]

The strings won't align to the pickup pole pieces if you squeeze the spacing like that. You could get a rail pickup to alleviate that, but then you'd be changing the sound. That's a rabbit hole I wouldn't go down.
I know you don't want to hear it, but practice will get you used to the 19 mm spacing. Either that, or a non-Fender bass with the spacing you want are the best answers.

 

[cfcbassman]

The problem with that plan is the string holes on the stock base plate are spaced at about 19mm as well. When you string up at 17.5mm the saddles will pull apart from each other from string tension and you're back to original spacing, but with gaps between the saddles. You have to bind the intonation screws together with wire or something to keep the narrow spacing. Not ideal.

If it was me, I would get a custom stainless steel base plate made in stock dimensions, drilled to desired string spacing, and use OEM Fender threaded saddles.

How about one of these?

https://www.allparts.com/products/bb-3343-badass-iii-4-string-bass-bridge?variant=40966630047801

btw: got a great deal on a demo Fender American Ultra II Precision Bass in Avalanche white.
The stock Fender High mass bridge has no adjustment laterally but looks like the string spacing is as close as it can be being at the max inboard position. I'll have to see how it feels once I have it in hand.

The above pic shows 5 mounting holes but the Ultra II has only 3 and allows for thru body string routing.

Thanks for the input Tbird.

 

[cfcbassman]

The strings won't align to the pickup pole pieces if you squeeze the spacing like that. You could get a rail pickup to alleviate that, but then you'd be changing the sound. That's a rabbit hole I wouldn't go down.

Good point!

I have done some research and the general consenus is that the string does not have to be perfectly centered over the pick up poles...the sound/tone shouldn't suffer.
Here is a stock pic of the Ultra II. Note the E string isn't perfectly centered over the P pickup from the factory, and even less so for the J pickup. Hmmm...
More research is required.
I may find upon receipt the stock spacing is usable as is and adjusting my playing styling may compensate for the somewhat wider than 16.5mm spacing I am accustomed to. We shall see before I spend any $ on a replacement bridge...I'd much prefer to keep the bass stock, especially if a replacement bridge requires neck shimming or drilling additonal holes in a brand new bass.

Appreciate your input.

 

[Stylee Mousse]

Unless the subject instrument is extra special drill new bridge mounting holes.

They tend to be hidden and easily reversible

 

[sissy kathy]

Good point!

I have done some research and the general consenus is that the string does not have to be perfectly centered over the pick up poles...the sound/tone shouldn't suffer.
Here is a stock pic of the Ultra II. Note the E string isn't perfectly centered over the P pickup from the factory, and even less so for the J pickup. Hmmm...
More research is required.
I may find upon receipt the stock spacing is usable as is and adjusting my playing styling may compensate for the somewhat wider than 16.5mm spacing I am accustomed to. We shall see before I spend any $ on a replacement bridge...I'd much prefer to keep the bass stock, especially if a replacement bridge requires neck shimming or drilling additonal holes in a brand new bass.

Appreciate your input.

View attachment 7193243

Finally. It'll take you two minutes to adapt to the wider spacing.

 

[cfcbassman]

Finally. It'll take you two minutes to adapt to the wider spacing.

I tried several years ago on a Sadowsky UV40. Perhaps I didn't give it enough of a chance but after 15-20 minutes I just couldn't hit the ajoining string consistently. I'm sure a better player would adapt easily, but the widest string spacing I've had and felt comfortable with was my Rick 4003 with 17mm spacing. From there I went Ibanez, Warwick at 16.5mm. All my custom Mucks (5 and 6 str) are 16.5mm as well...After 50+ years, I am hopeful, but doubtful I can break the mold with this one...I won't do any bridge swaps until I give the stock spacing a fair shake...I promise!

Cheers!

 

[iiipopes]

Hi all

I have a AVRI 61 Precision bass that I love the sound of (owned and played the heck out of for around 8 years). However, I'm still frustrated by the 19m string spacing at the bridge - I play palm muted with a pick and it's not an easy experience.

I'd like to have 17.5mm string spacing but I don't want to buy a massive adjustable bridge. I want to keep the vintage style bent-L design.

Does a Fender vintage style bridge with 17.5mm string spacing exist?

PS - I've scoured the web for a hours but can't finding anything.

PPS - I've tried using the threaded saddle grooves but it's physically impossible to get it down to 17.5mm (esp. on the E and G strings).

Years ago I wanted the same thing. So I took a Fender bolt-stock bridge, cut it in to to offset it with my fanned frets, and put the string over the next in-board groove in the bolt stock saddle. See this thread: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/a-different-custom-p-style-bass.755914/ where I describe my bass in more detail. Cutting the bridge down the middle of the plate and re-mounting it got the D-A spacing down to where I wanted it, then it was a simple matter to move the E and G strings over one thread in the saddle.

 

[cfcbassman]

Years ago I wanted the same thing. So I took a Fender bolt-stock bridge, cut it in to to offset it with my fanned frets, and put the string over the next in-board groove in the bolt stock saddle. See this thread: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/a-different-custom-p-style-bass.755914/ where I describe my bass in more detail. Cutting the bridge down the middle of the plate and re-mounting it got the D-A spacing down to where I wanted it, then it was a simple matter to move the E and G strings over one thread in the saddle.

Excellent build post... you have quite the skill set there sir! Impressive. Thanks for the share and the info and so glad you are enjoying the fruits of your ex, but way above my pay grade.

The one thing my Ultra II has in common with your project build is the 1.62 nut width...I am hopeful this might work in combination with a BA III bridge from Rocket Music to get the stock from 19mm to 17-17.5mm.

Btw: I tried a Dingwall fan fret model out of curiosity (Lee Sklar plays one, so why not?) Same issue...my old brain just couldn't wrap around the new patterns even the the string spacing was very good. Many said the same thing about the fan fret design..."Give it some time"... yup, tried, no joy there either. Passed her on to someone younger and more talented/adaptive.

The new Ultra II arrived yesterday...waiting the 24 hours as recommended by SW via the sticker on the box. Probably not needed as it's a Poly finish, but no need to rush and adds to the anticipation.

The BA III bridge should be in and shipped soon...I will update my experience as I progress through the testing and mod process.

 

[cfcbassman]

Well, I am gobsmacked! I just played the Ultra II and the playability of the neck seems to make the wider string spacing much less of an issue than I had thought. Pleasanty surprised compared to my last attempt at playing a P bass, the Sadowsky UV40. Perhaps the narrower nut (1.625") helps,... not sure, but I am holding off on the BAIII bridge for now until I am sure my brain can adapt to this new string spacing.
But right now, I believe I may be able to make the stock Fender HiMass bridge work, even though it is not laterally adjustable.

Gotta admit, it feels really weird not have that B string there as that is all I have played for the last 24 years, but it's bringing back fond memories of my Rick 4003, which I played for many years before selling it all when we started our family. (Yeah, I know, should have never sold it...)

So far my first P bass (albeit a modern version) is a win win. I'll plug her in tonight and give her a good testing to be sure she is everything I think she is.
Looking forward to more sheddin' and building up those long gone calluses, although the La Bella flats lite will probably make that chore a bit easier.