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1964 Rickenbacker 4001 Restoration - NEED FIREGLOW HELP!

Here is a collection of pictures showing the progress of the build from when the bass was received and through today.

Yes, some of the photos are redundant from above in the thread.

The Facebook album is captioned with more information on each photo. See the FB album here: Link Removed

If you like to follow my work, then I HIGHLY recommend that you friend me on Facebook, and/or "like" LedBelli BASS Guitars on Facebook. I keep my work much more up to date there for followers, and I'm free to say what I want to say without any troublesome trolls or admins. My posting on Talkbass anymore is sporadic at best.

Here are the links to reach me via Facebook:

www.facebook.com/cleveland.r.johnson

https://www.facebook.com/pages/LedBelli-BASS-Guitars/114393258596273

Progress pictures:

IMG_0108_zpsbba82cf9.jpg


IMG_0326_zpsb36e34b7.jpg


At this point, see the thread above for how work progressed thus far. Today was spent making a fingerboard and fitting the new "vintage" truss rods.

IMG_0513_zps6da4608c.jpg
IMG_0517_zps3b22cccb.jpg
IMG_0518_zps44368fe3.jpg
IMG_0520_zpsfe83f2f0.jpg
IMG_0515_zpsc6f48bfb.jpg
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Hey - just saw this thread - a very neat project - excuse my ignorance, but did '64's have dot inlays (ala McCartney's) or was that only for the export models ?

Anyway - that's not the main reason I'm posting - it had more to do with the finish questions.

The Fireglo finish looked pretty different when it was applied at the factory vs. what it ends up looking like after 40 years - the original appearance is a very clear finish in the center with a bright transparent red burst at the edges (similar red as used for a Fender 3-color burst).

Over time, the finish ambers heavily, so that most old Ricks are an amberish yellow in the middle and then a red with an orange tint at the edges. I know Rick switched to some sort of conversion lacquer finish though not sure if that was late 60s or early 60s - and that may be the reason it yellows so much (more than typical clear nitro I think - though the thickness also determines how deep the yellowing is).

I have a mid-60s Rickenbacker "Ryder" kids guitar that's not yellowed - and then a '66/67 Rose-Morris that's heavily yellowed - I'll try taking a series of side-by side pics - maybe with a white balance sheet next to em so you can see what I mean.

I think you can replicate either of the finishes appearance using clear nitro and then an amber tint (red, yellow, brown) and cherry red in a clear base.

Krishna
 
Hey - just saw this thread - a very neat project - excuse my ignorance, but did '64's have dot inlays (ala McCartney's) or was that only for the export models ?

Anyway - that's not the main reason I'm posting - it had more to do with the finish questions.

The Fireglo finish looked pretty different when it was applied at the factory vs. what it ends up looking like after 40 years - the original appearance is a very clear finish in the center with a bright transparent red burst at the edges (similar red as used for a Fender 3-color burst).

Over time, the finish ambers heavily, so that most old Ricks are an amberish yellow in the middle and then a red with an orange tint at the edges. I know Rick switched to some sort of conversion lacquer finish though not sure if that was late 60s or early 60s - and that may be the reason it yellows so much (more than typical clear nitro I think - though the thickness also determines how deep the yellowing is).

I have a mid-60s Rickenbacker "Ryder" kids guitar that's not yellowed - and then a '66/67 Rose-Morris that's heavily yellowed - I'll try taking a series of side-by side pics - maybe with a white balance sheet next to em so you can see what I mean.

I think you can replicate either of the finishes appearance using clear nitro and then an amber tint (red, yellow, brown) and cherry red in a clear base.

Krishna

The export model was a 1999. Almost dead simmilar to the 4001S at the time (minus the tug bar).

A 4001S has dots and no binding, a normal 4001 would have the inlays and checkered binding at this time.
Hope that clears it up.
 
I have a client who has commissioned LedBelli BASS Guitars to perform a complete restoration of a 1964 Rickenbacker 4001.

The bass was nearly destroyed by it's original owner in 1966 due to unprofessional retrofitting efforts, etc.

The bass was then purchased in the U.K. by it's current owner. When purchased, it was a train wreck; basically a box of parts and a seriously bad attempt at a refinish (that went bad).

The second owner then kept the bass in storage for the past 45 years, then brought it to me for a full-on restoration.

WHAT I NEED FROM MY FELLOW TB'RS: I need sources and methods for recreating an accurate "Fireglow" finish, vintage 1964. Color mixing, sources of information . . . anything and everything that could help.

Here are a few pics of progress so far:
IMG_0326_zpsda36e0a8.jpg
72433299-7bb1-45c6-acf3-96e031d0596b_zps0f78c3c6.jpg

fc7d8933-f92c-4f9e-be27-fc68897103cc_zpsbc5590b4.jpg

IMG_0486_zps7ead1a13.jpg

IMG_0487_zpsb4030285.jpg
I have a client who has commissioned LedBelli BASS Guitars to perform a complete restoration of a 1964 Rickenbacker 4001.

The bass was nearly destroyed by it's original owner in 1966 due to unprofessional retrofitting efforts, etc.

The bass was then purchased in the U.K. by it's current owner. When purchased, it was a train wreck; basically a box of parts and a seriously bad attempt at a refinish (that went bad).

The second owner then kept the bass in storage for the past 45 years, then brought it to me for a full-on restoration.

WHAT I NEED FROM MY FELLOW TB'RS: I need sources and methods for recreating an accurate "Fireglow" finish, vintage 1964. Color mixing, sources of information . . . anything and everything that could help.

Here are a few pics of progress so far:
IMG_0326_zpsda36e0a8.jpg
72433299-7bb1-45c6-acf3-96e031d0596b_zps0f78c3c6.jpg

fc7d8933-f92c-4f9e-be27-fc68897103cc_zpsbc5590b4.jpg

IMG_0486_zps7ead1a13.jpg

IMG_0487_zpsb4030285.jpg
I have a client who has commissioned LedBelli BASS Guitars to perform a complete restoration of a 1964 Rickenbacker 4001.

The bass was nearly destroyed by it's original owner in 1966 due to unprofessional retrofitting efforts, etc.

The bass was then purchased in the U.K. by it's current owner. When purchased, it was a train wreck; basically a box of parts and a seriously bad attempt at a refinish (that went bad).

The second owner then kept the bass in storage for the past 45 years, then brought it to me for a full-on restoration.

WHAT I NEED FROM MY FELLOW TB'RS: I need sources and methods for recreating an accurate "Fireglow" finish, vintage 1964. Color mixing, sources of information . . . anything and everything that could help.

Here are a few pics of progress so far:
IMG_0326_zpsda36e0a8.jpg
72433299-7bb1-45c6-acf3-96e031d0596b_zps0f78c3c6.jpg

fc7d8933-f92c-4f9e-be27-fc68897103cc_zpsbc5590b4.jpg

IMG_0486_zps7ead1a13.jpg

IMG_0487_zpsb4030285.jpg
My opinion is don't. Because I think anything that happens in the life of an instrument is part of its history. In this case I understand what you want to do. But I think every instrument should wear its scars with honor.
 

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