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I was thinking the bat cave, or the shop of the guy who makes all the gadgets for James Bond.
Seeing as I was unable to get the inlaid pickup cover out of my mind, I searched until I found my original paper template, and things fell together from there. 
This is largely @Tim Barber 's fault for triggering my obsessive tendencies 
Funny that I thought I'd just take some time and just build it, but like @Gilmourisgod I tend to run through operations over and over before ever turning on a machine or picking up a tool. What a mind-fluff this inlaid pickup was! Doesn't seem like it on the surface, but the problem is, whenever I make any of these matching positive/negative template combinations, I always index the final piece from the bottom. The bottom becomes my "top" when I'm working and every piece is fitted together with an identified top and bottom. The reason for this is that much as I try, I'm not a CNC machine, so my templates will always be a tiny bit off-kilter and/or asymmetrical. It's not a visible thing though, as the eye doesn't notice it if it appears true, but in practical terms it means I can't just flip a pickup over and expect it to fit into the cavity upside down - hope that makes sense. So in this case, I had to plan my operations so that I could inlay the driftwood into place and then reliably centre the pickup cover cavity template in the correct location on the bottom. This would permit me to then index everything from the top start to finish. Good gravy I must have written this out half a dozen times and gone through each step mentally 2x more than that. Engineer, I am not. 
I checked the paper template size against the first completed cover and it still seemed okay. I made a few photocopies so I'd have a few to work with.
I also sanded, thicknessed, glued, sanded, rethicknessed and resanded this block from a hunk of maple and some dark walnut.
Plus I resawed the driftwood block into a 3mm thick veneer and carefully sanded it flat. This is the top surface that had previously been epoxied with the top.
I remade the tiny inlay template using the same method as the pickup cavity template. Here's a peek of the driftwood in the planned shape.
The pickup cover is 21mm thick and will have an 18mm deep internal cavity.
Because it's so small, I don't take a chance on double sided tape and the template gets screwed down.
And a quick blast around the inside gives a small hole for an inlay! I'm leaving the natural curves that are left by the router radius and matching the inlay to them.
I glued one of the paper templates down to the driftwood piece so I could cut it on the bandsaw and shape it a bit. Side note: I bought this can of 3M Super 77 in the summer of 2004. I used it to glue foam to the inside of the body panels on my Jeep to prevent rattling. Since that time, I've used it on every template I've applied like this. It still feels like it's 1/3rd full...16 years later... weird.
A quick buzz on the bandsaw close to the line and boom.
I sanded around the edges until it fit reasonably well.
Then put CA in the cavity and slathered it in wood flour.
Then sanded it flush.
Transferred the design to the other side in preparation for routing the pickup cavity in the bottom. This was a pucker moment and I must have measured and remeasured 10x. Also marked for screw holes. I fully drilled out the screw holes between this pic and the one below.
Screwed down the template and hollowed it down for 18mm.
Came out pretty clean all things considered.
From there I roughed out the final shape on the bandsaw and mounted it to the routing template for a final cleanup.
This is largely @Tim Barber 's fault for triggering my obsessive tendencies Funny that I thought I'd just take some time and just build it, but like @Gilmourisgod I tend to run through operations over and over before ever turning on a machine or picking up a tool.
What a mind-fluff this inlaid pickup was! Doesn't seem like it on the surface, but the problem is, whenever I make any of these matching positive/negative template combinations, I always index the final piece from the bottom. The bottom becomes my "top" when I'm working and every piece is fitted together with an identified top and bottom. The reason for this is that much as I try, I'm not a CNC machine, so my templates will always be a tiny bit off-kilter and/or asymmetrical. It's not a visible thing though, as the eye doesn't notice it if it appears true, but in practical terms it means I can't just flip a pickup over and expect it to fit into the cavity upside down - hope that makes sense. So in this case, I had to plan my operations so that I could inlay the driftwood into place and then reliably centre the pickup cover cavity template in the correct location on the bottom. This would permit me to then index everything from the top start to finish. Good gravy I must have written this out half a dozen times and gone through each step mentally 2x more than that. Engineer, I am not. I checked the paper template size against the first completed cover and it still seemed okay. I made a few photocopies so I'd have a few to work with.
I also sanded, thicknessed, glued, sanded, rethicknessed and resanded this block from a hunk of maple and some dark walnut.
Plus I resawed the driftwood block into a 3mm thick veneer and carefully sanded it flat. This is the top surface that had previously been epoxied with the top.
I remade the tiny inlay template using the same method as the pickup cavity template. Here's a peek of the driftwood in the planned shape.
The pickup cover is 21mm thick and will have an 18mm deep internal cavity.
Because it's so small, I don't take a chance on double sided tape and the template gets screwed down.
And a quick blast around the inside gives a small hole for an inlay! I'm leaving the natural curves that are left by the router radius and matching the inlay to them.
I glued one of the paper templates down to the driftwood piece so I could cut it on the bandsaw and shape it a bit. Side note: I bought this can of 3M Super 77 in the summer of 2004. I used it to glue foam to the inside of the body panels on my Jeep to prevent rattling. Since that time, I've used it on every template I've applied like this. It still feels like it's 1/3rd full...16 years later... weird.
A quick buzz on the bandsaw close to the line and boom.
I sanded around the edges until it fit reasonably well.
Then put CA in the cavity and slathered it in wood flour.
Then sanded it flush.
Transferred the design to the other side in preparation for routing the pickup cavity in the bottom. This was a pucker moment and I must have measured and remeasured 10x. Also marked for screw holes. I fully drilled out the screw holes between this pic and the one below.
Screwed down the template and hollowed it down for 18mm.
Came out pretty clean all things considered.
From there I roughed out the final shape on the bandsaw and mounted it to the routing template for a final cleanup.
And here it is completed and posed with the original plain walnut.
Mockup time!
Original walnut:
Inlaid walnut:
Original:
Inlaid:
I do like it, but honestly I do still think it's a little busy.
At any rate, the new owner can decide as they will get both. 
What do y'all think?
Mockup time!
Original walnut:
Inlaid walnut:
Original:
Inlaid:
I do like it, but honestly I do still think it's a little busy.
At any rate, the new owner can decide as they will get both. What do y'all think?
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,020
- 1
- 31,740
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Good job. I think the inlaid cover is a win! Worth the time and effort in my book. 
I like it.
Have to see it with the strings.
But I still think it will look better with the inlay.
But they both look good.
That's cool the new owner will get 2 covers.
Have to see it with the strings.
But I still think it will look better with the inlay.
But they both look good.
That's cool the new owner will get 2 covers.
Good job. I think the inlaid cover is a win! Worth the time and effort in my book.
Yes, what he said
And here it is completed and posed with the original plain walnut.
Mockup time!
Original walnut:
Inlaid walnut:
Original:
Inlaid:
I do like it, but honestly I do still think it's a little busy.
What do y'all think?
Is there a pickguard for this bass like there is on it's cousin?
If so, I think the Inlaid pickup cover could be really cool. If not, the plain one might be better.
Multiple-layer router templates like that are a mind bender, even with Bondo method, mine are never perfect, but that came out great!
No PG on this one. I'm still leaning towards plain myself.
If you were going with gold hardware, I might say it was a titch busy.All satin black
But since you're going with a laid back satin black, the inlay is not too busy.
Actually, It doesn't really look like it was "added". To my eye, it looks like it belongs and it's more of a walnut border, than a drift wood inlay.
This is all based in scientific fact, but if you want to go with other subjective opinions, that's your prerogative.
And here it is completed and posed with the original plain walnut.
This is largely @Tim Barber 's fault for triggering my obsessive tendencies
......
What do y'all think?
I think I've created a monster
But...I also think it looks cool. And giving both to the customer is a good call; you get to try it without risking much. FWIW I completely understand your process. I build everything over and over in my head before I ever pick up a tool. "One hundred measurements, one cut".
That is amazing!
My vote is for the inlay, but I understand going for the solid one.
My vote is for the inlay, but I understand going for the solid one.
No PG on this one. I'm still leaning towards plain myself.
I came very late to the party, but just read the entire thread with am coffee. Awesome bass. The inlay cover is great looking, fantastic work, but to me has the appearance more like a ring/surround laying on the surface, where the plain cover offers a lovely contrast.
Nice work Beej. I've just seen this thread and read it for the start.
I like your idea of aluminium neck stiffening rods. As the building side is still new to me (1st body replacement starting soonish), what size did you use? I have a fair whack of 5x5mm 6061 stock here. Would that be suitable or should I go for thinner/deeper? Just gathering ideas for down the line when I attempt a neck of my own.
I like your idea of aluminium neck stiffening rods. As the building side is still new to me (1st body replacement starting soonish), what size did you use? I have a fair whack of 5x5mm 6061 stock here. Would that be suitable or should I go for thinner/deeper? Just gathering ideas for down the line when I attempt a neck of my own.
It's a sickness.I think I've created a monster
But...I also think it looks cool. And giving both to the customer is a good call; you get to try it without risking much. FWIW I completely understand your process. I build everything over and over in my head before I ever pick up a tool. "One hundred measurements, one cut".
Thanks
Thank you, and that's pretty much exactly how I feel.
Thank you
The stiffening rods I've been using have started out as 1/8" x 1/2", and I cut them at an angle and put them into a slot that's 1/2" deep at the heel end and 9-10mm deep at the nut end. I like to make my necks thin at the nut end, so I don't want to chance exposing them when I carve the neck. This one is 19.5mm thick at the 1st fret for example. With a 5mm thick fretboard, the neck is quite thin. Latest posts
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Curious what the percentage of bass players use rounds vs flats is.
- Latest: Rip Van Dan
