5 string with good active and passive tone?

[Antisyzygy]

Most active/passive basses don't do both well. Typically the switch to passive disables all EQ controls. In other words it's more of an emergency battery fail feature than a true active-passive bass. For a true active-passive bass consider a G&L L-2500. EQ works both in active and passive (but is cut only) and you can either find a used USA version in the price range or the Tribute models new in the same range. The knobs, switches and strange setup can be intimidating at first, but allow the bass to be just about the most versatile around once you finally "get" how they all work.

Check out some of the G&L L2500 discussions here to get more of a feel what people see in those basses. They have a taste of old school and yet do some modern too. My L2500 USA fretless is by FAR my favorite bass and I have some really nice high end "niche" basses.

Solid recommendation. L2000/L2500s are probably the best hybrid active/passive design I've ever played.

I'm sure there are others that do it right, but most recommendations I've seen for good passive/active hybrid basses are for far more expensive basses.

 

[Antisyzygy]

After doing some more research based on the recommendations here, I'm really hoping to demo some import Laklands and G&Ls. I'm reading that the controls on the L2500 are kind of unique (no blend, cut only EQ), so I definitely want to demo one of those before I put down any cash. The M2500 looks interesting, but doesn't seem to have an EQ bypass/passive mode. Unfortunately, the big GC in my area (Seattle) doesn't have a whole lot of 5 strings, so I'll probably start calling around the smaller shops.

For those suggesting external preamps or adding a preamp to a passive bass, I know those are legit options, but I am trying to keep it fairly simple/off the shelf if I can. I know there's no magical bass out there that will cover all ends of the spectrum really well (especially for under $1k), so there will be compromises. I just want something comfortable and versatile that I can pick up and use to explore a wide range of styles/tones.

The M2500 is an active bass design, I wouldn't recommend it for what you want. The L2500/L2000 series is a bit unusual since it's a true active/passive hybrid but I think once you understand the controls it makes far more sense.

You DO have boost capability. You use the switches for that. The knobs are cut-only but they work in passive mode so you get more flexibility.

Your series/parallel switch is your bass boost. Put it in series for the boost.

Your preamp switch has three modes. Off for passive operation, On for a gain boost, and then On with a gain and treble Boost.

This design is pretty flexible because you have bass cut and boost, and treble cut available in passive mode. The only thing you lack in passive operation is the treble boost.

I'd also suggest thinking of your treble cut and bass cut knobs as "boost" knobs when you have the bass in series, with the preamp treble boost engaged. You can keep the treble and bass knobs cocked back about half way and basically simulate a Stingray Classic setup.

 

[EveryGoodBoy]

The M2500 is an active bass design, I wouldn't recommend it for what you want. The L2500/L2000 series is a bit unusual since it's a true active/passive hybrid but I think once you understand the controls it makes far more sense.

You DO have boost capability. You use the switches for that. The knobs are cut-only but they work in passive mode so you get more flexibility.

Your series/parallel switch is your bass boost. Put it in series for the boost.

Your preamp switch has three modes. Off for passive operation, On for a gain boost, and then On with a gain and treble Boost.

This design is pretty flexible because you have bass cut and boost, and treble cut available in passive mode. The only thing you lack in passive operation is the treble boost.

I'd also suggest thinking of your treble cut and bass cut knobs as "boost" knobs when you have the bass in series, with the preamp treble boost engaged. You can keep the treble and bass knobs cocked back about half way and basically simulate a Stingray Classic setup.

That's a really helpful explanation, thanks. I will keep these things in mind when I get a chance to try one out.

 

[wrench45us]

the G&L L2500 has EQ in passive mode because the treble and bass controls are cut only, not boost.
It's a rather clever arrangement, but it takes some rethinking -- similarly the active control options.

 

[40Hz]

You could go 5 string passive Jazz like a US Fender or Lakland 55-60 or Darryl Jones 5, and add a preamp pedal like the Sadowsky outboard pre pedal.

This.

Onboard electronics are overrated IMO unless they're in something really high-end like an Alembic et al. Because a passive bass with a decent and flexible preamp will get you the same thing most times - but with a lot more flexibility.

 

[Nedmundo]

I'm generally a G&L guy, so of course I think the L-2500 is a great option. I have the active-only M-2500, which is fantastic, but I do wish it operated in passive mode.

Also, I recently tested the four-string version of the Ibanez SR755, which is a P/J with Nordstrand-designed pickups and active/passive operation. It doesn't bring the massive thunder of G&L's with MFD pickups, but it's an excellent bass with great P-bass tone in passive mode. I wouldn't mind an SR755 as an alternative/backup to my M-2500. IMO it's worth a look.

 

[Crystalman85]

I'm in the market for my first 5 string and I'm hoping to find something new or used under $1k with both good active and passive tones. I know there are a lot of basses out there with passive pickups and active EQs, but many don't have switches to bypass the EQ. I am primarily a guitarist and don't want to buy a lot of niche basses, so I'm looking for something versatile. I currently play a Fender Jazz with flats and want something a little more modern (want to play some slap and bright chordy stuff) but that can still deliver that nice thumpy Motown sound. I'm currently eyeing the Yamaha TRBX505 but haven't been able to get my hands on one yet. Any other recommendations?

I would say the yamaha trbx505 would be a good choice for a bass with active/passive switching. from my perspective, this bass sounds similar to that of an Ibanez sr505 when it's in active mode. like the sr505, it sounds phat and meaty. speaking of Ibanez, one of the higher Ibanez soundgear basses has an active/passive switch as well like the sr655 and I think the sr755 has that feature also. you really can't go wrong with any of these basses.

 

[LadyLoveStingRay5]

Try some MTD Kingston models. If you can find a used Andrew Gouche 5 at your price point, you will be very pleased.

 

[bassbenj]

This note from another thread...

"The series/parallel switch on the G&L does work to split the pickups to single coil. It uses a cap to do this so they are single coil in the high frequencies and humbuckers in the low frequencies. This makes them quieter and a little fatter in the low end."

I'm no expert on the matter, but here's a thread where it was being discussed...
Coil Tap Question

What you are talking about is the OMG mod which is a cap cross one of the MFD coils. That does pretty much what you describe. However, even though certain older G&L came wired like that all the ones I have came from the factory where series was just plain old series and there was no cap. For that reason I modded all my G&L with pull on the treble knob to engage the OMG cap. Generally speaking in my opinion the OMG mode is a bit much so I don't use it very often. Still it is one more color on the pallet.

 

[Jim Carr]

You could go 5 string passive Jazz like a US Fender or Lakland 55-60 or Darryl Jones 5, and add a preamp pedal like the Sadowsky outboard pre pedal.

Yep. A low-cost alternative is the Lakland 55-01 (I have one MIK) or 55-02, but I find the passive Lakland 55-60 with an Aguilar ToneHammer pre-amp pedal is really great, either passive, or made active with a good pre-amp pedal.

 

[AMp'D.2play]

Something else to consider which I didn't mention in my initial reply - string spacing. You will probably find a big difference in playability between the 19mm spacing of the Lakland vs the 17mm of the G&L. The guitarist in you may prefer the tighter spacing on the G&L, or even tighter Ibanez SR (16.5mm, iirc). The slapper in you may find the 19mm Lakland easier to deal with. Your Jazz is more than likely 19mm, as well, so there's some familiarity with what you already have. The Yamaha TRBX 5s are 18mm, so they kinda split the difference.

The Laklands are also 35" scale, which might be another adjustment; but i find string spacing more difficult to adjust to than scale length. YMMV