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60s Fender Jazz?

I got this bass from my dad a few months ago (he got it as 2 months rent from a useless roomie in the 80s), and really haven't done much with it. From what I can tell, it's most certainly ancient, with perhaps not the nicest, or most pampered of lives, and it appears to have been stripped of paint and coated in deck varnish. The neck plate is worn all to hell, and has no Identification on either side, the neck is stamped with what i think are fender markings on the end. Looks as though someone took the top of the frets off and put the wire back in, and coated the whole neck with a thick, clear, hard substance. the neck also has brass dots, should that be a point of interest to anyone.

The body has been modified for a Badass bridge, the fit is all but perfect. I picked up a parchment pick guard to cover up the ring where a paint can appears to have beens et on the body while the current coat was still wet. on the back, it's got some serious wear, telling me that the body has had this coating for a very long time.

Electronically, last time I heard this instrument, only one pickup was outputting, and the pots all were rough. I pulled the strings because they were kinked and were a bit corroded. The pickups look fine, no corrosion on the copper, though there's some patina on the magnets, the height adjustment foam resembles tar, and the screws holding the pickups on were rusty and a couple of them stripped. The wires are all cotton wrapped, and the grounding plates are all there (with the exception of whatever any have been involved with the bridge originally) and certainly have that aged look to them.

So far, I've cleaned what I knew wouldn't suffer, the tuners, pickup covers, the jack plate and the knobs to an extent. What I'm pretty certain it could use/needs, is new foam for pickup height adjustment, probably new pots, maybe a new nut and tuners.

Pics in a bit.
 
The bass as it is now.
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The back, showing the wear.
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What the pick-guard is hiding.
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Some damage on the neck, shows how thick the coating is.
DSC07524.png


Stampings on the end of the neck.
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The neck, showing the finish and dots.
DSC08539.png


The side dots.
DSC08540.png


Feel free to ask for any shots you need to help ID this thing.
 
My intent for the time being is to get it to playability, with full restoration a distant future sort-of goal due primarily to cost.

The original color, for anyone curious is visible in the neck pocket and cavities, as a dark, metallic red.
 
That neck could develop into a problem. It looks like the truss rod nut is tightened all the way down, plus it's riding up and could bow the fretboard at the point where it's hitting the board. There wasn't much wood there to begin with and it looks like more wood was removed by someone using a large screwdriver to tighten the rod nut. Also, being that it looks like it's tightened all the way down, you might not be able to adjust the neck.

I'm not trying to put the bass down, just trying to prepare you for what you might be in for.
 
Anything you see in terms of improper setup has been on the instrument for a long, long time, as far as I know (not that it's a good idea to keep it that way). The neck has no visual issues, looks to be straight and warp-free. Though any work on the truss will require some care, as the bolt head is damaged, likely due to someone seriously unqualified trying to alter things.

Found yet another oddity in that one of the wires on the bridge pickup has disconnected itself from the solder point, which might have contributed to a lack of output.

What I'm trying to learn right now is if it's a true Fender, and what year it was produced in. I assume the neck was made in '65, but i don't erally know when the body was made, or how to find that out.
 
If the body is original to the neck then it's probably an early 65 bass. Fender went to block inlays and bound necks for the J bass by late 65/early 66, and your neck is dated Mar 65.

The serial number for basses produced then was stamped on the metal neck plate. If yours doesn't have a serial number stamped on it then the neck plate isn't original to the bass. That doesn't mean that it's not an original Fender bass, it just means that the neck plate was changed.
 
The neck plate doesn't seem original, but it's most definitely old, as the chrome has worn off to copper, or even down to brass in spots, the screws have black paint on their heads not visible anywhere else on the bass. My bet is that around whatever time period that body got coated in varnish is when the neck plate was swapped out for whatever reason, because both mods have some serious wear on them.
 
I can see this body has the "fullerton router hump" in the lower cutaway, and I can also see one of the pin router body plugs on the back of the body. So I know this is a body made before 1970 (and of course 3.6" pickup spacing).

I don't know if you want to keep using this as a fretless, but my version of restored would be replacing the fretboard since it is chewed, and to me it seems like the board has been planed down much thinner. I wouldn't refret on a thin board, and while the board is off I'd replace the truss rod assy.

By your traces of paint, this bass was candy apple red, and just about all of them had matching headstocks. To me it would be worth it sinking ~2k into this, seeing that orignal CAR 65's go for about 10k, and refins 5-6k.
A '65 should have gray bottom pickups and should have handwritten dates, So I would investigate how much of the original electronics and harware is still present, but obviouisly the tuners aren't.
 
I can see this body has the "fullerton router hump" in the lower cutaway, and I can also see one of the pin router body plugs on the back of the body. So I know this is a body made before 1970 (and of course 3.6" pickup spacing).

I don't know if you want to keep using this as a fretless, but my version of restored would be replacing the fretboard since it is chewed, and to me it seems like the board has been planed down much thinner. I wouldn't refret on a thin board, and while the board is off I'd replace the truss rod assy.

By your traces of paint, this bass was candy apple red, and just about all of them had matching headstocks. To me it would be worth it sinking ~2k into this, seeing that orignal CAR 65's go for about 10k, and refins 5-6k.
A '65 should have gray bottom pickups and should have handwritten dates, So I would investigate how much of the original electronics and harware is still present, but obviouisly the tuners aren't.

Where would the handwritten dates be?
Where should i see/how should I interpret pot dates?

The pickups both have grey, papery-looking bobbins and are, from what a friend has told me, potted. The bridge pickup has what is either an S or a 5 on it written in sharpie.

The headstock matching explains to me whay it's got some of the same stuff the body has on it on there and not even a hint of the Fender regalia
 
Potentiometers

* Fender used mostly Stackpole brand pots in the 1950's, and CTS brand pots in the 1960's. These pots are date coded, and can help verify the authenticity and year of an instrument. The manufacturer code for CTS is 137 (or 304 for Stackpole), so this number should be stamped on the pot somewhere. Following this number is the date code in YWW or YYWW format. The "Y" or "YY" is the last digit(s) of the year, and the WW is the week. In the 1950's, YWW date format was used. For example, "137504" would be a CTS pot made in the 4th week of 1955. A code of "1376344" would be a CTS pot made in the 44th week of 1963.


From: http://www.provide.net/~cfh/fender.html
 
Potentiometers

* Fender used mostly Stackpole brand pots in the 1950's, and CTS brand pots in the 1960's. These pots are date coded, and can help verify the authenticity and year of an instrument. The manufacturer code for CTS is 137 (or 304 for Stackpole), so this number should be stamped on the pot somewhere. Following this number is the date code in YWW or YYWW format. The "Y" or "YY" is the last digit(s) of the year, and the WW is the week. In the 1950's, YWW date format was used. For example, "137504" would be a CTS pot made in the 4th week of 1955. A code of "1376344" would be a CTS pot made in the 44th week of 1963.


From: http://www.provide.net/~cfh/fender.html

Well, I've got 304-6450 on all three pots, though i suspect the capacitor (with SK .02 10% on it) is an addon as that's the only place plastic insulated wire is used.
 
I know you said for now you want to get it just playable but i think it needs alot of work to get there and a full restoration would be best. Just getting it playable would be easy with aftermarket parts but i doubt it would sound or even play that great.

Check out this guys work i have seen 3 of the basses he has done on here and wow great work.

http://guitargarage.blogspot.com/2009_05_19_archive.html

Why would you think it would not sound good nor play well with new Fender or other high quality new parts? They are certainly better than the old stuff, especially tuners and there are plenty of amazing vintage sounding pick ups available today.