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V8 project

JIO

Scott Lives
Gold Supporting Member
Commercial User
Jun 30, 2010
49,627
222,205
The Mission SF/CA
www.facebook.com
Disclosures
musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I saw this inexpensive 8-string SG style bass (from China) on eBay, and hit the buy tab. I usually avoid buying from China and I'm not generally an 'impulse' consumer, but it seemed like a fun project bass. Not a lot of info so I wasn't sure what scale it was, but it looked like a long scale which would be ok with me. The pics of it avoided showing the hs face, so I suspected it had a counterfeit Gibson logo. The back of the hs is stamped Made In USA - again... counterfeit. One of the many reasons I don't buy from China. It initially was slated for an early Oct delivery - but it showed up today.

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1st off - FedEx left the box (clearly a guitar box) exposed on my landing. I was home waiting for the doorbell - which they didn't use. My partner Beth luckily came home for some lunch and brought it in! I was checking our front door off & on all morning and had literally checked 15 minutes before! ~ "porch pirates" are ramped these days and I have already had a FedEx package (custom 12 string, gilded and Pat Wilkins final clear-coated guitar body) stollen that FedEx left exposed on my landing. (and the driver forged my signature!) After months of fighting them (it was insured/signature required) they finally paid the insurance claim. Arg! The decline of western civilization is in full swing.

Anyway - the packing was sufficient to get it to SF from China in one piece. (moulded styro usually is good) and even though it had an added extension 'cap' with styro - it arrived w/o issues. The box was probably for a ss SG bass.
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It came with a cheap cable and a couple hex wrenches...
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Everything I describe next will describe the bass as is. After checking it out from top to bottom, I decided I can remedy all the 'cons' along with adding my own personal touch to it. Kinda' right up my alley.

First off - the bass is a beast. It is in fact 34" scale as I suspected, and it weighs 9lbs/12oz. Also as suspected, it has a counterfeit Gibson branding. It's inlaid abalone and as much as it isn't a perfect forgery, it's actually fairly well done.
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Close-up of the counterfeit MADE IN U.S.A. stamp... I appreciate the periods between USA... :rolleyes:
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So the obvious cons - this is not the pot configuration I ordered. (see pic above) I wanted the version I ordered - and was sent this. They will hear from me before I give them any feedback rating. I don't want to deal with the hassle of returning it - and I already have idea's of modding the bass so I can deal with it.
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This is the second con - (see pics above of what I ordered) - a much larger heel and (hard to see in this pic) some bad finish droops. Not happy about this either - and they will hear from me. But once again - I'll deal with it.
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Ouch... nasty control cavity with tiny pots and hack-job jack install.
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And no shielding (not surprised) I can deal with it. I have plenty of pots/jacks in my parts bin and shielding is no problem.
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Even the control cover is a hack-job. (back shown) No problem.
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The set-neck is pretty darn straight & frets are acceptable. (haven't checked the tr yet) but the strings are pretty high off the fb. (7/16" at the heal)
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The culprit is the bridge. All of the saddles are bottomed-out, so the whole bridge needs to be routed lower into the body. I definitely can do that having done that on some of my custom builds.
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I tuned it, plugged it in and played it as much as I could with such high action. The neck is huge - so the combination of high action and a big thick/wide neck (1-3/4" nut X 2-3/4" heal) makes it very hard to play. I will most likely shave it down - I like the feel of a wood neck better than paint anyway. Sound wise, it's ok - but it's hard to tell what it really sounds like with the strings so far from the pu's. Once the bridge is lowered - I'll have a better impression.

When I ordered the bass - I bought some guitar tuners for the active strings. You don't have to wonder if it neck-dives... it absolutely does. So the smaller tuners were ordered mostly for differentiation (easier to tune) and won't make much of a weight difference. That is where the modding part comes in.
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The set-neck is pretty darn straight & frets are acceptable. (haven't checked the tr yet) but the strings are pretty high off the fb. (7/16" at the heal)
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Kinda looks like regardless of what you do with the bridge, the pickup will need to get lowered substantially to make every fret usable, no?

Looking forward to hearing how you deal with this all!
 
Kinda looks like regardless of what you do with the bridge, the pickup will need to get lowered substantially to make every fret usable, no?

Looking forward to hearing how you deal with this all!

Lots to address but as long as the set-neck is good, all doable. :thumbsup:
 
So my modding plan, especially now that I have the beast in the house - will be as follows. 1) Lightening - and facilitated by a stylistic mod I wanted to do as soon as I saw the bass.
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Always loved John Cipollina's customized SG. So I'm going to design my own version of his for the blue beast. With that much pg - I'll have lots of covered surface to route the body under the pg sections. As you can see - his has a thick white core unlike a standard blk/wht/blk pg. Because of my experience with vintage UK builders Burns of London and Watkins (I have a '63 BoL Vista Sonic and a '67 Watkins Rapier bass) I recognized his pg being made of engravers plastic and found a US company on-line and got a sheet. The routing will help reduce weight, but the next issue will be to address neck-dive.
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Have done this a few times to cure neck-dive. Strap peg at the 12th fret - sorted.
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Yon can remove some wood from under the bridge to lower the action, but then the strings will hit the pickups, and then you could also remove wood from under the pickups.

Perhaps a better way is to remove the neck, and then shim it about 1/8" and then bolt it back on.

I like to solve the neck dive with a straplok extender pin.
 
Yon can remove some wood from under the bridge to lower the action, but then the strings will hit the pickups, and then you could also remove wood from under the pickups.

Perhaps a better way is to remove the neck, and then shim it about 1/8" and then bolt it back on.

I like to solve the neck dive with a straplok extender pin.

...it's a set neck :)
 
Black poster-board mock-up. Since I'll be adding the large upper section, I think I'll rout for a lower neck pu position to get away from the neck-heal "mud bucker" location. Also may install a Guild RI Darkstar there to replace the neck pu. I've used them in a few basses and they never fail to sound good. I'm not a big fan of the boomy neck-hugging EB-O position.

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Parts bin uncovered this Wilkinson bucker with wiring to offer a split-coil option. Also having no poles is optimal. The provided mud-bucker poles didn't align with the string clusters.

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Ready to cut out and relocation of the neck pu. I'll cut and shape each section/part and then bevel the edges like on my moquette.
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