Above nut buzz

[Egbert89]

Hello all,

I just noticed a buzz on my bass that previously wasn't there. It only buzzes on the open A string and when trying to locate it I found that it dissappeard when I put my finger on the string between the tuner and nut.
When I push the string down with some force the buzz dissappears for two more plucks. The tuner is solid and the buzz is not coming from it (tried holding down the whole damn thing and it didn't make a difference). It's a Maruszczyk jazz bass with a 0 fret, tuned half a step down. Strings were changed more than half a year ago, setup also hasn't changed (no buzzes on any other strings, open or fretted).
Do you guys have any idea where this could be coming from?

Egbert

 

[SteveCS]

Here's my starter for 10...

1: Insufficient break angle over the Zero Fret?
2: Wear/Compression of the zero fret under the A-string causing a buzz at the first fret?
3: Change in temperature/environment leading to slight change in neck relief?

Any of these could be temporarily 'solved' when you press down on the string behind the nut/0-fret. Good luck!

 

[Egbert89]

Here's my starter for 10...

1: Insufficient break angle over the Zero Fret?
2: Wear/Compression of the zero fret under the A-string causing a buzz at the first fret?
3: Change in temperature/environment leading to slight change in neck relief?

Any of these could be temporarily 'solved' when you press down on the string behind the nut/0-fret. Good luck!

Thanks for the quick response.
As for the break angle, how could that come in so spontaneous?
The bass is about 1.5 years old and well not a cheapo replica haha so I hope it isn't fret wear. Any quick way to check that?
The temperature outside has dropped about 10 degrees (winter overhere) but inside it hasn't really changed that much. I will try to set re-adjust my neck

 

[Zooberwerx]

Thanks for the quick response.
As for the break angle, how could that come in so spontaneous?
The bass is about 1.5 years old and well not a cheapo replica haha so I hope it isn't fret wear. Any quick way to check that?
The temperature outside has dropped about 10 degrees (winter overhere) but inside it hasn't really changed that much. I will try to set re-adjust my neck

Why? Too much / too little relief? First off, re-set your witness points. A side-shot of your headstock, zero fret, and first few frets may help.

Riis

 

[SteveCS]

Thanks for the quick response.
As for the break angle, how could that come in so spontaneous?
The bass is about 1.5 years old and well not a cheapo replica haha so I hope it isn't fret wear. Any quick way to check that?
The temperature outside has dropped about 10 degrees (winter overhere) but inside it hasn't really changed that much. I will try to set re-adjust my neck

Hi. These were only suggestions. If you haven't had the strings off then the break angle change is unlikely. At only 18 months old there could still be settling of the instrument going on, which might include bedding in of the zero fret. Agree with Riis that a good close-up pic might help us.

This from Wikipedia :
+++
Drawbacks[edit]
The zero fret presents a problem for guitarists who use string bending techniques, which are very common in blues, rock and some jazz styles. When the frets are new, there is no problem, but the strings quickly wear narrow grooves in the zero fret.
+++

Questions - do you use wide string bending/vibrato at or around Bb-C# on the A-string? What is the distance between the 'nut'/string guide and the zero fret? If yes, and the distance is large enough (more than say 2mm) then this could be causing premature wear of the zero fret right under the string.

EDIT - actually a smaller distance could be worse as it will concentrate the wear in across a narrower area...

 

[Bruce Johnson]

It sounds like you've got a slight near-alignment between the bottom of the slot in the nut, and the top of the zero fret. What's happening is that the string bends over the zero fret, and then heads down at a slight angle towards where it's wrapped on the tuner post. But, when it passes through the slot in the nut, it's just barely touching the bottom of the slot. So, the vibration makes it buzz. Pressing lightly on the string above the nut makes it stop.

Ways to fix it:
1.) Use a nut file or other small file to cut the slot in nut slightly deeper. When you have a zero fret, the nut slots are there mainly to hold the side to side spacing. The bottom of the slot doesn't really matter.

2.) Slightly build up the bottom of the slot. Cut a little square of tape and stick it down in the bottom of the slot. Just make sure it isn't high enough that it holds the string up off of the zero fret.

3.) Change the way the string is wound on the post, so that the height where the string contacts the post is either a little higher or a little lower than it is now. Either way will stop the buzz.

 

[GregT]

I totally agree with Bruce Johnson's #2 as a great first thing to try. Even a small piece of paper into the nut to elevate it to see if that was the problem. Guitarists have been using that temporary fix for years. If that gets rid of the buzz, you can move on to something more permanent. His #1 makes great sense also. Good luck!

 

[Egbert89]

Here are the pictures, and no I do not use much bends.
The neck relief is a tadd bit high at the moment so I'll adjust it and try to put a bit of tape in the nut under the A string to see if that gets rid of the buzz.

 

[Egbert89]

The piece of tape solved the problem
Thanks for all the help!!

 

[Zooberwerx]

Two observations:

*Your action may be a tad high...but that's a matter of personal taste.

*Your E string appears to be making a "lazy loop" as it passes over the zero fret. Jam your thumb down on the E string (...ok, all strings) just on the fingerboard side to set the witness points. Do the same at the bridge.

Riis

 

[OldDirtyBassist]

The tape is a temporary fix for cutting the A string too short.

 

[JustForSport]

Could have been caused by a combination of the action height and the 'lazy loop' relaxing/settling over time. It didn't suddenly happen, but was almost ready to buzz and just needed the geometrical changes of settling to get there. Lowering the relief and or action height along with lowering the slot in the nut just a little (and maybe for the E also, while at it) should prevent it happening again. Just be sure to set the witness points as noted above to have your setup in a settled-in state.

 

[Egbert89]

Ok, just did a setup and was able to lower the strings quite a bit before any fret buzz kicked in.
What is are the "lazy loop" and "witness points" you guys are talking about?
And yeah I figured as much OldDirtyBassist but sadly I can't really make my strings any longer now haha
I'll lower the slots a bit next time I'm changing strings

 

[GregT]

They are talking about the side view of your string over the nut. the string should come from the tuner at a straight line and then an angle over the nut and then be in a straight line over the neck. Yours sort of has a smooth bend over the nut. The way to fix is hold the string down on the string on the tuner side of the nut with a little pressure and then push down on the string harder on the fretboard side. That will make a better angle at the nut instead of the string having a curved (lazy) look as yours does. It is just that the string should have a good sharp angle at the "witness point". Hope that makes sense.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Ok, just did a setup and was able to lower the strings quite a bit before any fret buzz kicked in.
What is are the "lazy loop" and "witness points" you guys are talking about?
And yeah I figured as much OldDirtyBassist but sadly I can't really make my strings any longer now haha
I'll lower the slots a bit next time I'm changing strings

All strings, particularly the larger gauge, are resistant to bending and, if not addressed, will form an arc as the pass over both the nut / zero fret and bridge saddles. This will result in all sorts of wonkiness including difficulty w/ intonation & tuning, abnormally high string height, and buzz originating from the entire string path. It's very evident in the pics you posted and by the mere fact you've asked the question above. It is essential when properly installing strings. Please re-read my previous description of the procedure. It's as simple as tuning the bass to pitch and then forcibly jamming the string downward (on the fretboard side) to created a bend which establishes a clear delineation of the vibrating string path.

Riis