Active/Passive switch diagram -anything wrong with this?

[Maz]

I'm wiring an active/passive switch into one of my basses. While I wait for the parts to get here, does anyone see anything wrong with this diagram?

 

[Jawbone]

Look at post #14 I used this and it works.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/series-parallel-j-bass-good-idea-717700/

 

[line6man]

I'm wiring an active/passive switch into one of my basses. While I wait for the parts to get here, does anyone see anything wrong with this diagram?

View attachment 312505

You're just shorting everything together. Do it like this:

Look at post #14 I used this and it works.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/series-parallel-j-bass-good-idea-717700/

That's series/parallel switching.

 

[Maz]

You're just shorting everything together. Do it like this:

I don't see how I'm shorting anything. I was running late making my little drawing and should have explained it better:
This is a dp dt switch on a push/pull pot, which I'm using for tone in passive mode. Green lines are the connection when the pot is lifted, blue are the connection when it's down. Red are permanent wires. In the diagram you posted I don't see how I can insert a tone control. I would also always be sending signal to the pre. Does that prevent popping or something? (I would'nt be switching from active to passive with the volume up generally, as I assume there's going to be a pop or click and a volume shift going from one to the other).

 

[line6man]

I don't see how I'm shorting anything. I was running late making my little drawing and should have explained it better:
This is a dp dt switch on a push/pull pot, which I'm using for tone in passive mode. Green lines are the connection when the pot is lifted, blue are the connection when it's down. Red are permanent wires. In the diagram you posted I don't see how I can insert a tone control. I would also always be sending signal to the pre. Does that prevent popping or something? (I would'nt be switching from active to passive with the volume up generally, as I assume there's going to be a pop or click and a volume shift going from one to the other).

Ok, if the green and blue lines are not hardwired connections, then it works fine.