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Double Bass Adjusting Bass Height

May 16, 2016
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What are y'all going by when you adjust your EUB's height?

I have an NXT4 an was thinking about marking the stand just to be consistent.

I notice my nose is right at F#, where I'm used to playing. Do any of you use a reference point, or just kind of guess at it and get it where it's comfortable?
Maybe I'm concerned too much with it but don't want to be throwing my self off.

Thanks!
 
When I got my 4/4 acoustic bass I took them wrong reference because I played mainly pizz and my bow was not perpendicular to the string.
Even if you only want to play pizz, do yourself a favor and get a bow for practicing intonation and put the instrument high enough that you can bow at the right place, perpendicular to the strings and without bending your body over in the lower positions. The nut height will be a result of that not vice versa.
 
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When I got my 4/4 acoustic bass I took them wrong reference because I played mainly pizz and my bow was not perpendicular to the string.
Even if you only want to play pizz, do yourself a favor and get a bow for practicing intonation and put the instrument high enough that you can bow at the right place, perpendicular to the strings and without bending your body over in the lower positions. The nut height will be a result of that not vice versa.
This is exactly what I was going to post.
 
When I got my 4/4 acoustic bass I took them wrong reference because I played mainly pizz and my bow was not perpendicular to the string.
Even if you only want to play pizz, do yourself a favor and get a bow for practicing intonation and put the instrument high enough that you can bow at the right place, perpendicular to the strings and without bending your body over in the lower positions. The nut height will be a result of that not vice versa.

Ok I appreciate the advice, though I was really just wondering when you go from place to place, setting up the stand, or adjustable endpin, what do you look at to measure; do you use a reference point to make sure the stand has been adjusted to where you normally play it.
An EUB doesn't really have a part that rests against your body, so I would think you would use something to kind of go by.
 
Ok I appreciate the advice, though I was really just wondering when you go from place to place, setting up the stand, or adjustable endpin, what do you look at to measure; do you use a reference point to make sure the stand has been adjusted to where you normally play it.
An EUB doesn't really have a part that rests against your body, so I would think you would use something to kind of go by.
Yes, sharpie on the endpin. Masking tape and sharpie if necessary. It's not critical - you'll adjust - and it's also not carved in stone - you might choose a new height some time or a new angle, but a relatively consistent physical relation to the instrument helps minimize distraction and spending a few measures adjusting. It's worth a very serious exploration of what works well for you and what doesn't, IME. A mirror is a minimum, a good teacher can expedite the process dramatically.
 
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Ok I appreciate the advice, though I was really just wondering when you go from place to place, setting up the stand, or adjustable endpin, what do you look at to measure; do you use a reference point to make sure the stand has been adjusted to where you normally play it.
An EUB doesn't really have a part that rests against your body, so I would think you would use something to kind of go by.
I do not have a NS EUB but a Clevinger and a Stagg. I reworked the Clevinger foot to be straight like an endpin, not angled as build by the manufacturer.
There is a support on both instruments and nowadays I prefer to have the EUB endpin in some distance in front of my feet and angle it towards my body.
I like to be able to move my body a little bit during playing and a stand would not move the neck of the bass with me.

But back to your question:
It is OK to use some reference point but after you found for yourself where you need the instrument. But be aware that the angle of the instrument can make a difference, so don’t have a height reference only but an angle reference too.
BTW, if I play an acoustic bass on a jam session there is often not enough time to adjust the height and often the ass is higher than zu would have preferred. Then I angle the instrument more towards me and the height comes down.
You miss that flexibility with a stand.
 
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Yes, sharpie on the endpin. Masking tape and sharpie if necessary. It's not critical - you'll adjust - and it's also not carved in stone - you might choose a new height some time or a new angle, but a relatively consistent physical relation to the instrument helps minimize distraction and spending a few measures adjusting. It's worth a very serious exploration of what works well for you and what doesn't, IME. A mirror is a minimum, a good teacher can expedite the process dramatically.

Thank you!
I'm thinking about marking the stand. When I played keyboards in a band the stand had indentations to screw in that kept it at the right height, one up or one down would throw my off a bit.

I thought about getting a bass with an endpin rather than a tripod, but read that not having a body made tougher to keep stationary and therefore more difficult to play.
Also I'm switching back and forth from BG to EUB all night, a tripod makes that easier.
 
Thank you!
I'm thinking about marking the stand. When I played keyboards in a band the stand had indentations to screw in that kept it at the right height, one up or one down would throw my off a bit.

I thought about getting a bass with an endpin rather than a tripod, but read that not having a body made tougher to keep stationary and therefore more difficult to play.
Also I'm switching back and forth from BG to EUB all night, a tripod makes that easier.
I just set my NS for comfort, with zero expert guidance, so I'm looking at the F#, and have it marked with a small scratch in the black paint on the stand. I have it tilted back about 5 degrees, and toward me about 5 degrees. I have to use a stand because I'm switching back and forth to electric, and even sometimes play upright with my electric hung around my neck. (BTW, I use a simple passive A/B switch- one input is electric, the other EUB post preamp) just stomp to switch basses.
 
I thought about getting a bass with an endpin rather than a tripod, but read that not having a body made tougher to keep stationary and therefore more difficult to play.
Not really a reason against the endpin.
You just need a good support that does not bend or wiggle.
Also I'm switching back and forth from BG to EUB all night, a tripod makes that easier.
But this is a good reason if you need to switch under about ten seconds.
 
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I just set my NS for comfort, with zero expert guidance, so I'm looking at the F#, and have it marked with a small scratch in the black paint on the stand. I have it tilted back about 5 degrees, and toward me about 5 degrees. I have to use a stand because I'm switching back and forth to electric, and even sometimes play upright with my electric hung around my neck. (BTW, I use a simple passive A/B switch- one input is electric, the other EUB post preamp) just stomp to switch basses.

That's what I'm doing, using an A/B switch.

We jump from song to song so quickly I vaguely have time to puck up my bass.
 

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