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Advice for best possible tung oil finish

FenderBender82

FenderBender82

Aug 29, 2010
148
5
South county, RI
#1
I've been apply minwax tung oil ( I know it's not real tung oil) to an alder p-bass body and am currently on the third coat while sanding in-between coats. Though I like how it's coming out I do wish that there was more definition in the grain and that the end grain did not soak up so much. Although I have been researching this subject I am a bit confused due to all the different methods listed here. I've looked into the slurry method and also waxing but I would really like to know what I should do to achieve the highest possible gloss and color. Keep in mind I am in no rush and will continue to apply one coat per day until I figure out what to do. Thanks
 
#2
It is going to be a long, draw out process using tung oil to get a high gloss finish, with the processes described. You would be better served in using a high build wipe on poly such as Tru-oil. You can apply with your fingers (with gloves on) or use coffee filters, rubbing it on until smooth, let dry, and repeat until you have approx. 12-15 coats. I wet sanded after letting the last coat cure for a week using 800 up to 2000 grit. Polish out

I've also sprayed Tru-oil by cutting it 25% with naptha through a detail gun or airbrush. sprayed up to 15 coats and started the above procedure in wet sanding and polishing.
Others may chime in, but IJME.
 
#4
I've found that the Minwax Tung Oil is really nice for a "natural" looking and feeling sheen (low gloss version, a well-rubbed coating per day for a week), but when I've seen it used to build to a gloss it looks sort of cheap-ish. I just used it to great effect over a black-dyed ash jazz body. I might wax it later but right now I like it.
 
#7
All I have near me are home depot and Walmart in southern ri. I also had an hd giftcard so that's where I went. Here's a pic from before I started.
 

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#8
Heres a few more pics. The first two are after the third coat and the last is right after applying the fourth all dripping wet and sexy. The more I look at it wet the more I want it to be glossy.
 

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#9
the minwax tung-oil is basically a wipe on poly, minus the 'poly' but its still thinned varnish; so it will build; if the end grain is drinking too much, keep on it, add more after 5-10 min, and keep doin it untilit seems to be sittin on top; grain fill helps alot to speed upthe building process, the slurry method, i personally dont agree with; and as mentioned above the gloss is kinda cheesy, thats just the way it is, but it looks good buffed out imo'
good luck!
 
#11
Found this method on another forum and think I may try it. It's for tru-oil but I think it will work with my tung oil and some mineral spirits.


I have a method that was taught ot me by Michael Tobias, its roughly a 5 day process

once the guitar is well sanded to at least 180 grit ( 220 is better)
Start with a "soak coat" first
Use a small rag to wipe on liberal amounts of oil and keep the surface wet for 10-15 minutes. Wipe off excess and let dry for as long as you want. but not less than 24 hours. this coat is very important as it seals the wood and the deeper the oil goes the better your protection against moisture later. pay attention to end grains as they soak up more oil.

2. Starting with 400 grit sandpaper. dip the sandpaper in a small amount of oil and sand in circular motions in a small area. the oil will begin to make a paste from the sanding dust, that you will want to push into the grain as much as possible. once the oil/dust paste starts to get stiff-ish, wipe off excess paste going across the wood grain. let dry another 24 hours. woods like ash ( or other wide grain woods) may require a sanding block to keep the wood surfaces flat. Clsoe grains like mahogany and Maples usually don't need a block.

3. Repeat step 2 useing 600 grit.

4. Repeat with 1200 grit

5. Take a 400 count cotton sheet and cut into a 12" square. roll into a very tight, smooth surfaced, ball.
use the ball as you did the sandpapers.. dip into the oil and "polish" the wood surface.
when the oil gets warm and stiff-ish,
wipe off VERY vigoursly WITH the grain, with a clean 400 count sheet ( balled up) damped with a VERY small amount of orange or lemon oil.
Buff and polish during and after this wipe off step and you should have a very nice glossy French polished finish. be careful of fingerprints.. as the oil drys, it will keep imprints in its surface.
I recommend you wear one cotton glove on one hand to hold the guitar with while you buff. watch for hard items on your worksurface. I fact I recommend that you use something soft to do this whole process on.

let dry another 24 and your done.

I prefer General Finishes Seal-a-cell and when I go to the 1200 grit paper i switch to Amour Seal also made by G.F.


This type of finish is not for the nambie pambie.. It require tons of elbow grease. Do it wrong and it looks like crap. do it right and it looks like a million bucks. if your arm is not hurting halfway through step 2... your doing it wrong.

Good luck.
Last edited by Bruce Bennett; 04-29-2010 at 06:43 PM.
 
#14
Been spending about an hour on it every night and have sanded all the way up to 2500 grit and it feels so nice. There are some swirl marks that I'm hoping will buff out. Also the method I'm following says to follow 1500 grit with a 400 count sheet but I'm worried that this is more coarse than the 2500 grit sandpaper and will be a step backwards
 
#15
I just found this ( yeah I know its old) but after reading what the OP said.. I didn't want anyone else confused.

thats a 400 THREAD count BED sheet... as in fabric.. not sheet of sandpaper. make a small piece about 12X12" square and then ball it up into a tight ball and dip that in the oil.

also to the OP if you ever re-read this.. Those swirl marks HAVE to be sanded out PRIOR to the first coat.
 

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