Amp MarkBass CMD121P connected to different voltage, it's damaged!!! (Please help me with the electronic schematic)

[Alaney Divino]

Good evening, my bassist friends.

I need the electronic diagram for the MARKBASS CMD121P amp to identify the parts. It's a 110-volt amp, but unfortunately, a stagehand plugged it into a 220-volt outlet and it didn't turn on anymore. The fuse blew, and the electrical current reached the power source, damaging the unit. I count on your understanding. I'm from the interior of another distant country is no authorized technical assistance center.

But a technician in my city said that with the electronic diagram he can solve the amplifier's problem so I can use it again. I'm very hampered without being able to use it; it was my sound companion.

Thank you!

 

[agedhorse]

Generally, they don’t release schematics except to authorized service centers.

With this kind of fault, the damage is usually substantial. MarkBass usually recommends replacing the whole power PCB rather than component level repair.

 

[Leo Smith]

have you already changed the fuse?

 

[yeasty]

I don't see your location listed, but rolling the dice on "distant country" puts you statistically in the land of 220/230/240V mains voltage.

The amp backplate is listed at 230V. I thought lore was that Markbass power supplies were voltage-specific and not just a jumper or switch-flip away from reconfiguration...

Did Markbass mis-tag a US model (yikes!) or has someone switched out the power supply? If the latter, then I'd look to them as a first pass for repair.

 

[Alban]

Was your amp modified to 110 Volt? Because that looks like an EU 230V version to me.
The old Little Mark III amps did have a 230/110 V jumper on the mainboard, but not sure if the current ones have it.

edit: yeasty beat me to it above but the question stands...

 

[Alaney Divino]

have you already changed the fuse?

Yes, I already changed it.

 

[Alaney Divino]

I don't see your location listed, but rolling the dice on "distant country" puts you statistically in the land of 220/230/240V mains voltage.

The amp backplate is listed at 230V. I thought lore was that Markbass power supplies were voltage-specific and not just a jumper or switch-flip away from reconfiguration...

Did Markbass mis-tag a US model (yikes!) or has someone switched out the power supply? If the latter, then I'd look to them as a first pass for repair.

Sorry, I got a rear photo from the internet because my AMP is with the technician, but its factory voltage is 127 volts.

 

[Alaney Divino]

Was your amp modified to 110 Volt? Because that looks like an EU 230V version to me.
The old Little Mark III amps did have a 230/110 V jumper on the mainboard, but not sure if the current ones have it.

edit: yeasty beat me to it above but the question stands...

Sorry, I got a rear photo from the internet because my AMP is with the technician, but its factory voltage is 127 volts.

 

[agedhorse]

Factory voltage should be 120V with a tolerance of +/-10%.

 

[basss]

You may be able to swap out the amp portion with another Little Mark size head. I've read in other posts that they are a uniform size and there's no internal cables to mess with.

 

[Alper Yilmaz]

I don't see your location listed, but rolling the dice on "distant country" puts you statistically in the land of 220/230/240V mains voltage.

The amp backplate is listed at 230V. I thought lore was that Markbass power supplies were voltage-specific and not just a jumper or switch-flip away from reconfiguration...

Did Markbass mis-tag a US model (yikes!) or has someone switched out the power supply? If the latter, then I'd look to them as a first pass for repair.

With this particular model, it is just a simple jumper on the board that would make the amp work at 230V. That’s how I have been using mine in Turkey which was bought in the US. I am not sure if the fuse was also supposed to be changed, but most probably is.

Swapping the amp with another (and newer) Little Mark series amp is likely to be the easiest option at this point. Particularly, the newer 58R series with all the Send/Return/DI jacks in the front panel makes the combo much more practical.

 

[agedhorse]

With this particular model, it is just a simple jumper on the board that would make the amp work at 230V. That’s how I have been using mine in Turkey which was bought in the US. I am not sure if the fuse was also supposed to be changed, but most probably is.

Swapping the amp with another (and newer) Little Mark series amp is likely to be the easiest option at this point. Particularly, the newer 58R series with all the Send/Return/DI jacks in the front panel makes the combo much more practical.

Not all of their amps are that way.

 

[Alper Yilmaz]

That's right, Andy. I have two of their amps which I was lucky in that sense. When I moved from Brooklyn to Istanbul, I just moved the jumpers on the boards of my CMD 121P (the same version with that of the OP's) and F1, and boom, all was good. But those are the only two I have experience with...