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Any DIY pedal builders on TB? Strut your stuff!

#581
JoeDaddio said:
It's a perfect name, right?
Click to expand...

Right!
(FYP)

Yeah, and I'm a huge Gore-Fan, too. Not sure about his S.H.E., I don't think he's producing his take on that circuit for public consumption, but his Perkolator variant is the "Porkolator", as I'm sure you're already aware of, and yet another great name for a pedal. :laugh:

Porkolator_01-177x300.png




While I was already aware of using a pot to mix two caps together in parallel, when I came across Joe's explanation of it in his Bazz Fuss build guide (he calls his the "Bulk Fuzz"), I just started to call it a Gore-Cap or Gore-Pot as a short-hand for the concept. Now when I make notes about a build and how I want to mod it, the Gore-cap or Gore-pot is still often mentioned... ;)
 
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#583
Closest I have is this:
9 volt guitar pedal regulated power supply

Is "regulated" = "isolated" or ≠?

GGG has a power box project that's regulated as well: 24V in, OUTS 24v, 18v, 15v, 12v.

I recall seeing a DIY PSU recently, but can't find it; Everything else on my HD definitely isn't isolated. Still much to learn about power, even if I don't ever DIY anything with it, it'd be useful knowledge to have. Please pass on anything you find for your *ahem* current project.


Oh, and I enjoyed your suggestion in the music first-timer's thread, made me chuckle. "Welcome to music" — that should be a pedal-building ritual as well. Complete your first build and somebody says "Welcome to Pedal-Building as they pass...
 
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#584
Feral Feline said:
Closest I have is this:
9 volt guitar pedal regulated power supply

Is "regulated" = "isolated" or ≠?

GGG has a power box project that's regulated as well: 24V in, OUTS 24v, 18v, 15v, 12v.

I recall seeing a DIY PSU recently, but can't find it; Everything else on my HD definitely isn't isolated. Still much to learn about power, even if I don't ever DIY anything with it, it'd be useful knowledge to have. Please pass on anything you find for your *ahem* current project.


Oh, and I enjoyed your suggestion in the music first-timer's thread, made me chuckle. "Welcome to music" — that should be a pedal-building ritual as well. Complete your first build and somebody says "Welcome to Pedal-Building as they pass...
Click to expand...
regulation ≠ isolation
Those outputs are paralleled, and only one transformer (isolation device).
 
#585
Jordan Bosstone / EHX Satisfaction hybrid, built on stripboard into 1590B.
Socketed input & output caps and added a diode toggle switch; no diodes for Satisfaction mode, 1N914's for Bosstone mode, and 1N270 germanium diodes for something new. Germanium diode mode sounds the best.
I started painting it dirt colors; yellow ochre, burnt sienna, and raw umber and it looked like a flower pot, so it needed flowers, or maybe a dandelion. Kid painted a dandy tiger!
Spring time when fuzzes are sprouting up from the dirt!
20210330_175037.jpg

20210329_174428.jpg
 
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#586
jw23mind said:
regulation ≠ isolation
Click to expand...
Yep. There are various levels of "isolated", too. You can have multiple regulators feeding off the same rail. With appropriate filtering, that's all a lot of us actually need.

Or, you can use a transformer that has several output windings. Then you basically build multiple independent rectification/regulation sections. Each can be galvanically isolated. Someone actually sells a transformer exactly for this purpose. I'll see if I can find it.

Then, there are more involved methods of isolation such as passing energy via capacitors that gets switched between the source and output modules.
 
#591
Parasit Studio collection. Arcadiator v.3, Sidescroller v.2 & 8-Bitar.
Analog bit crusher and sub octave were two effects on my DIY-GAS list. These knocked out two birds with one pedal and then some.
Arcadiator and Sidescroller have similar features but use different chips and have slightly different PWM and LFO sounds. Blend knob is a bit misleading. It pans between sub-octave on the right side and PWM-style analog bit crushing or +1 octave on the left side of the knob. At center position you get -1 & +1 octaves. There is also an LFO which works well with PWM, but is glitchy with the sub-octave. Sub-octave was mostly usable above the 7th fret on A & E strings at standard tuning. There are tons of of old-school video games sounds and crazy madness to be found inbetween the knobs and switches. Painted both pedals metallic amethyst, with a light coat of purple glitter on the Arcadiator and a light coat of green glitter on the Sidescroller.
8-Bitar does only lo-fi sub-octave. It doesn't have a sensitivity trimmer like the bigger pedals have. I found it only usable above the 12th fret across the entire fretboard and was very unforgiven with muting technique, creating glitch artifacts from the smallest string noise. This pedal was my first attempt at polishing a bare metal enclosure.

20210331_095121.jpg


Arcadaitor; rotated the pcb 180 degrees so the switches would be in front where I like 'em and the control layout would match the Sidescroller.

20210328_120857.jpg


Sidescroller; I'm going to have to try out epoxy to fill the incorrectly drilled power jack hole.

20210329_123939.jpg


8-Bitar. This one almost didn't fit.

20210328_141946.jpg
 
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#592
Sorry to interrupt the conversation. I finally got around to taking a family photo:

DIY_Collection_num_2021.03.31.jpg


1. Fuzz Face, PNP germanium, with voltage inverter charge pump
2. Tonebender MK.II, PNP germanium
3. Tonebender MK.II, PNP ge/si, with voltage inverter charge pump and external bias
4. Wolf Computer clone
5. EQD Terminal Fuzz clone
6. Roger Mayer Axis Fuzz, with voltage sag and socketed tone section
7. Roger Mayer Voodoo Bass clone
8. Woolly Mammoth clone
9. Devi Ever Hyperion & Silver Crank combo
10. Devi Ever Soda Meiser & Vintage Fuzz Master combo
11. Devi Ever Hexafuzz dual pedal. Ruiner, Dark Boost, Hyperion combo on right side. Silver Crank, BIT, GZ combo on left side.
12. Klon klone
13. Depth Charge clone
14. Boss HM2 clone
15. Brown Dog clone
16. Parasit Studio 8-Bitar
17. Parasit Studio Sidescroller v.2
18. Parasit Studio Arcadiator v.3
19. Rat clone with Reutz mod
20. Big Muff, highly modified with many Supercollider influences.
21. Bazz Fuss & Buzz Box combo
22. Jordan Bosstone / EHX Satisfaction hybrid
23. DOD 250 / HAO Sole Pressure hyrbid
24. Tubescreamer, modified gain section for more lows and more distortion.
 
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#593
G.Bisson said:
Sidescroller; I'm going to have to try out epoxy to fill the incorrectly drilled power jack hole.
Click to expand...

I incorrectly drilled something at work and used epoxy with good results. I covered the hole with Kapton tape on the outside. You want the non sticky side against the epoxy, so stick a piece to s latger piece. Example using masking tape:
20210331_162521.jpg


Fill it with quick set epoxy on the inside. Once dried, pull the tape off and used a paint pen to cover it up. The box was black powdercoat, so I couldnt sand it. If you are going to paint it, then you dont have to be as careful.
 
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#594
AudioTaper said:
I incorrectly drilled something at work and used epoxy with good results. I covered the hole with Kapton tape on the outside. You want the non sticky side against the epoxy, so stick a piece to s latger piece. Example using masking tape:
View attachment 4223379

Fill it with quick set epoxy on the inside. Once dried, pull the tape off and used a paint pen to cover it up. The box was black powdercoat, so I couldnt sand it. If you are going to paint it, then you dont have to be as careful.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I'll probably pick up a JB-Weld two part epoxy next time I'm at the hardware store. Is there any particular epoxy that might work best? I will be painting over it, so anything that's ready to paint is best.
 
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#595
G.Bisson said:
Thanks for the advice. I'll probably pick up a JB-Weld two part epoxy next time I'm at the hardware store. Is there any particular epoxy that might work best? I will be painting over it, so anything that's ready to paint is best.
Click to expand...
You can sand and paint JB Weld. I heard you need to use an epoxy primer for best results.

I've only used JB Weld once, and that was to fix the truss rod end on my '94 Warwick Masterman. The original cast part broke, I I milled a new one out of a solid 304 Stainless steel bolt. There are 2 screws that hold the milled part to the rod, one was a little stripped out. JB Weld high strength steel reinforced to the rescue. I think it turned out pretty nice considering I'm not a machinist. Total cost of material, $8.00
Screenshot_20210331-172147_Gallery.jpg
 
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#596
JB Weld is fine. The key (with any epoxy) is to mix it very well.

My experience with epoxy and masking tape on other projects is to use the sticky side of the tape. This way you can get a good seal around the hole and can have a tight skin of tape that will give you a nice flush flat epoxy patch once cured. The tape will come off easily enough.

See posts 559 & 565.
 
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#597
G.Bisson said:
Thanks for the advice. I'll probably pick up a JB-Weld two part epoxy next time I'm at the hardware store. Is there any particular epoxy that might work best? I will be painting over it, so anything that's ready to paint is best.
Click to expand...

JB Weld is fine. The key (with any epoxy) is to mix it very well.

My experience with epoxy and masking tape on other projects is to use the sticky side of the tape. This way you can get a good seal around the hole and can have a tight skin of tape that will give you a nice flush flat epoxy patch once cured. The tape will come off easily enough.

See posts 559 & 565.
 
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#598
G.Bisson said:
Thanks for the advice. I'll probably pick up a JB-Weld two part epoxy next time I'm at the hardware store. Is there any particular epoxy that might work best? I will be painting over it, so anything that's ready to paint is best.
Click to expand...

I recommend JB-Weld SteelStick, it's a putty and for me easier to control than gooey glue-epoxies.

I've had very good experience with JB-Weld SteelStick (actually a clone there-of): Broken pannier-rack in the middle of nowhere N. Pakistan. Nothing a stripped XTR wheel skewer, a spare spoke, zap-straps, and of course some JB-ish putty couldn't fix. Luckily I had the foresight to bring the little steel-epoxy log. I kept the rack after as a trip-trophy, it's still together.

I'd set the enclosure on some wax paper, mix the putty real well (as per Roxbororob's recommendation), then stuff and smooth the hole — work quickly to level it with the inner wall, less sanding to do afterwards. While it's still fresh and yet to completely set, peel the wax paper away and check the outside to make sure there are no gaps, fill in as needed.

VERY SWEET Family Portrait you posted.
I, too, reverse PCBs 180º or even flip as necessary to get the layout the way I want — I've got a lot of smaller Parasit PCBs in the queue, but none of the Big Parasit — when I order the Arcadiator I'll follow your lead and spin it 180.

8-Bitar Mods
Any ideas on how you'd mod the 8-Bitar to improve it? Clean blend? Make a resistor a pot/trimmer?
My idea involved reverb, but if it's as touchy as you say, I'm going to have to rethink my plan to include the 8-Bitar in that project.




jw23mind said:
regulation ≠ isolation
Those outputs are paralleled, and only one transformer (isolation device).
Click to expand...

Cheers JW.

So the PowerBrick vero @mdalamond posted is regulated and not isolated, as well, correct?


Power-stuff gives me the heebie-jeebies, I surprised myself when I was talked into building an amp — all those horror stories of shock-induced heart-attacks etc...







@AudioTaper Very impressive truss-rod repair. Not something I think I could tackle, but after seeing your pics I would maybe attempt it.









Most inspiring thread on TB, right here. Tahnkouberrymusheberywon.
 
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#599
Feral Feline said:
I recommend JB-Weld SteelStick, it's a putty and for me easier to control than gooey glue-epoxies.

I've had very good experience with JB-Weld SteelStick (actually a clone there-of): Broken pannier-rack in the middle of nowhere N. Pakistan. Nothing a stripped XTR wheel skewer, a spare spoke, zap-straps, and of course some JB-ish putty couldn't fix. Luckily I had the foresight to bring the little steel-epoxy log. I kept the rack after as a trip-trophy, it's still together.

I'd set the enclosure on some wax paper, mix the putty real well (as per Roxbororob's recommendation), then stuff and smooth the hole — work quickly to level it with the inner wall, less sanding to do afterwards. While it's still fresh and yet to completely set, peel the wax paper away and check the outside to make sure there are no gaps, fill in as needed.

VERY SWEET Family Portrait you posted.
I, too, reverse PCBs 180º or even flip as necessary to get the layout the way I want — I've got a lot of smaller Parasit PCBs in the queue, but none of the Big Parasit — when I order the Arcadiator I'll follow your lead and spin it 180.

8-Bitar Mods
Any ideas on how you'd mod the 8-Bitar to improve it? Clean blend? Make a resistor a pot/trimmer?
My idea involved reverb, but if it's as touchy as you say, I'm going to have to rethink my plan to include the 8-Bitar in that project.






Cheers JW.

So the PowerBrick vero @mdalamond posted is regulated and not isolated, as well, correct?


Power-stuff gives me the heebie-jeebies, I surprised myself when I was talked into building an amp — all those horror stories of shock-induced heart-attacks etc...







@AudioTaper Very impressive truss-rod repair. Not something I think I could tackle, but after seeing your pics I would maybe attempt it.

I’m not sure. I haven’t looked into it to hard . Just saw it and posted. Here’s the link. It’s in the forum of tag board .
Link Removed







Most inspiring thread on TB, right here. Tahnkouberrymusheberywon.
Click to expand...
 

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