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any true bypass diagrams?

I would like to build a true bypass pedal to use with a Zoom B3.
I'm not happy with the way the B3 affects my sound when switched off.
Is there a preferred tried and true way to wire the pedal?
Would I have to use a buffer along with the bypass pedal?

I searched bypass diagrams and found so many different ones that I was wondering if anybody has opinions on which is better.

Thanks,

Jim
 
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Depends on what colour and brightness the LED itself is.
From GPCB: "Most single-colour LED’s work well with a CLR between 2k4 – 4k7 and can be varied to adjust brightness to taste."

If you want really bright, try about 1k8 – you do so at your own risk, I'm not shipping a new LED to you 'cause it blew at 1k8! :woot:

PS: I've always liked Beavis' diagrams. Pity the website is no more...

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There is also a resistor across the output in the diagram on the left that I was asking about.
Yes, it's an "anti-pop" resistor and it's not absolutely necessary, but it can stop that annoying "pop" or "thump" sound through your amp when the switch is turned on or off. You want to use a high value resistor, like 1 meg ohm or 2.2 meg ohm. The watt rating of the resistor isn't important for this application.
 
It seems to be a lot of efforts when you can just buy a Radial True bypass looper. I bought mine because, like you, I could hear the signal being degraded after chaining 3 boss pedals. Then I realize it is also great to switch off a group of effects with one stomp. Let's say you have a fuzz a filter and a compressor running and then you want to switch off all your effects at once and get back to a clean sound.