That's what I'm thinking - the place where you can cut back is lights. Do the figures and minimize the lighting.
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Not sure what the electrician did. All I know is we have a 110 breaker box on a cart with 100 ft. of some heavy ass cable with a 220 connector, and a ton of adapters.
We've been tapping into 220 at places with this for 20 years with no problems at all. It's been upgraded a few times during that span.
Yup you could go a long time and not have a problem
we used to have a huge cable with alligator clips and open the
electric panel and just clamp right on to the incoming wires
till someone hooked into the highleg and smoked 10- 500 watt par bulbs . They looked great nice and bright for about 60 seconds
So we bought a multimeter the next day to check the voltage after that
Best 20.00 investment ever
FYI also if you plug into a 220volt with no neutral in a building that
has a 3 phase high leg service one of you outlets could have 240 volts on it if its wired between the the 2 phases with the high leg
Wiring between 2 phases of 3 phase 120 Vac gives 208 Vac.
Like I said, I'm not sure what was done, how it was wired up...and I never connect it. It was done by a professional electrician and all I know is we have clean 110 power that's grounded. It's tested after connecting prior to every gig, before we plug any of our gear into it.
Yeah, I recall the ol' alligator clip deal...years ago a drummer in one of my bands connected it up that way...all he remembers was when he woke up (across the room) he couldn't hear anything for a while.![]()
Actually that is incorrect and correct at the same time
wiring between phases on a delta high leg 3 phase service is 240 volts
wiring between phases on a Y connected 3 phase service is 208 volt
They are 2 very different transformer connections and the delta
connected service between one of the legs to neutral will give you 240 volts so was the point if you had a 220 volt outlet with no neutral and connected your ungrounded panel hookup to
it one of your outlets could have 240 volts on it if it the outlet was across the high leg and one of the other legs
Can and does happen
Been in the electrical trade for 30 years so believe me when I tell ya I seen alot of stuff burnt to a crisp
It's been about 30 years since I've dealt with deltas, so I bow to your experiences.
I think we can surely agree on using a voltmeter & outlet tester every time when messing around with tap-ins.
No reason to bow to me my friend
this info is put out there to save anyone on here any grief with damaged equipment or even worse someone getting shocked
or burnt from a bad hookup
And yes to all who will listen a multimeter is a darn good idea before you plug several thousand dollars worth of equipment
even a standard outlet that has loose connections on it could damage your equipment (you know the ones that are so old that
the plug keeps falling out of from all them low notes)
You'll be fine. Divide it up on the AC line rating of each device as best you can.
I've done 2 guitars (100w tube heads), 3 x Behringer EP2500, 16 100w par cans, and a 1400 watt bass head on 2 x 15A circuits without an issue.
All we had to do was setup the lights with a max of 8 'on' at any one time (10 was possible, but a margin of safety is always a good thing).. easy as cake with a good set of dimmer packs and a good DMX lighting controllerWe got away with 4 lights on constant and the rest on an audio pattern.
We also did a lower volume gig once with the same PA, 8 100w pars, a single 25w guitar head and my RH236. All on the same 12 ga 50' extension cord going to one 15A outlet.. Not a single problem in 4 hours.
In the US, 3-phase power is rarely seen in residential or light commercial buildings. It is primarily needed where large electric motors are in use, which is mostly heavy commercial and industrial areas.
The 230 Volts service you usually encounter in residential and light commercial buildings is called "split-phase". It consists of a ground-bonded neutral and two "hots" (a.ka. line) which are each at 115 Volts relative to neutral/ground, but 180 degrees out of phase with each-other. Hence, the line-to-line potential is 230 Volts.
In the US, 3-phase power is rarely seen in residential or light commercial buildings. It is primarily needed where large electric motors are in use, which is mostly heavy commercial and industrial areas.
The 230 Volts service you usually encounter in residential and light commercial buildings is called "split-phase". It consists of a ground-bonded neutral and two "hots" (a.ka. line) which are each at 115 Volts relative to neutral/ground, but 180 degrees out of phase with each-other. Hence, the line-to-line potential is 230 Volts.
Just be sure to not turn everything on together and stage the powering up process. Start with highest drawing and add smaller draws after.