Aria SB-1000 Help

[PigsHaveFlown]

So I just scored myself an Aria Pro II SB-1000 for 250$AU. It came with a brand new replacement pickup from Aria, but the thing is pretty beat up (not that it bothers me). Its missing the strap buttons, all the knobs, and the selector switch has a knob which isn't stock on it but it does the job, also the finish is worn to the wood near the pickup so I'm assuming its an 80s model. I've got no Idea on the date or model on the thing though the serial number behind the headstock says 2101121, which I think means its a 1982?
Anyone know how to date it and also where I can find some replacement knobs, or even custom ones which look good on it?
Also, when I put it into active mode I get a tonne of white-noise. Is this an insulation issue or the pre-amp on its way out?

 

[Doctor J]

Nice. The dots on the fretboard generally mean that it's a domestic Japanese model and you get the narrow string spacing at the bridge with that. The serial number should be on the back of the headstock, I think the first number is the year - ie 3xxxxxx means 1983.

 

[Deathblade Eric]

AU$250? You lucky wossname - that's an absolute steal even with its issues!

Right...

SN 2101121 translates as 1982, October (10), production number 1121. This only appears to work on through- or set-neck Arias & isn't confirmed as being accurate for bolt-ons (although it might be). Prior to 1980 there's a slightly different numbering scheme.

Authentic replacement knobs are almost impossible to find. They sometimes turn up on Ebay, but only if the stars align & there's a Z in the month. I have a set of generic black anodised Jazz-type knobs on my SB-900 & whilst they look a bit meh, they work fine. It looks like you might have one original on the 6-way tone selector.

Odds are the noise is a preamp issue but it **might** be something else. It'd be really handy if you could post up some good clear photos of the control cavity; the missing knobs could be a sign that someone has rewired it & done a hack job. There are at least three variants on the circuitry - I'd expect yours to be the second version, but photos will confirm that.

If it is the preamp, the good news is that TB'er Prostheta has reverse-engineered the 'black box' & produced a drop-in replacement:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aria-Pro-...struments_Guitars_CV&var=&hash=item3ce9e77f41

Pete.

 

[PigsHaveFlown]

Thanks for the responses.
Its a through neck model I'm fairly sure, I don't know how to look for a set neck though. I think the active/passive switch isn't original because it looks different to the photos I've seen of them. Because it came with a spare pickup I thought someone had been playing around in there too but I can't notice anything, but I don't know what I'm looking for, the original pickup is still in it and working fine, just has some pretty serious markings from someone having the action too low and they go all the way along the pickup. Hope the pick is clear enough, didn't want to go moving wires around yet.

 

[Splods]

This is going to sound stupid, but I have to make sure. You have put batteries in yes?

 

[PigsHaveFlown]

Yeah, I connected the strings to the end of the battery right?
Nah I just took them out for the photo to show the pre-amp thingy.

 

[Deathblade Eric]

Thanks for the responses.
Its a through neck model I'm fairly sure, I don't know how to look for a set neck though.

It's a through-neck. The only SB that was set-neck was the SB-600 & that's really obvious if you see one.

I think the active/passive switch isn't original because it looks different to the photos I've seen of them.

It **might** be a replacement - I'd expect it to have a black toggle. Does it have a round or flat toggle?
The original is a six-contact DPDT affair, but there are two, later, alternatives. One is a 9-contact 3PDT & the other is a 12-contact 4PDT wired up as a 3PDT (so one set of contacts aren't used). The reason for the extra switching is that in the original SB-1000 the switch just disconnected the 6-way varitone stack, but in the revised versions it switches between two sets of pots to give true active/passive switching.
You should have stacked pots in there.

Because it came with a spare pickup I thought someone had been playing around in there too but I can't notice anything, but I don't know what I'm looking for, the original pickup is still in it and working fine, just has some pretty serious markings from someone having the action too low and they go all the way along the pickup. Hope the pick is clear enough, didn't want to go moving wires around yet.

There are some circuit schematics here: http://ariabasses.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/aria-pro-ii-sb-1000-wiring-schematics.html The one that seems to match yours (apart from the switch) is at bottom left & labelled 'New SB-1000'.

However... that drawing shows a different shaped control cavity which would have had a one-piece cover. Yours has the two-piece cover as shown in the other schematics.

It might be that someone has been in there. Possibly the original BB (Black Box) electronics have been pulled & a replacement set installed from one of the 're-issue' models. That would also account for the new pickup - Aria USA did supply these for a while, so they may also have supplied a preamp board.

It also might be the case that yours is absolutely correct & all we're seeing is an example of 'Specifications May Change Without Notice'

Next step requires a bit of bravery on your part... See all that insulation tape wrapped around the circuit board? Get it off & photo it to death - odds are that's where the trouble is unless there's a loose connection somewhere in the rat's nest of wiring.

The bad news is that there's no replacement for that board, but the good news is that you can probably replace all the components on it for a few bucks (provided you're confident with a soldering iron).

P.

 

[PigsHaveFlown]

The previous owner I bought it off said that there wasn't any modifications done to its as far as he knows, and that he order the pickup from Aria Japan, plus it was still wrapped when he gave it to me so who knows. The two-way has a round top, and its a light silver, looks like a normal toggle switch you can buy anywhere. Uh-oh I'll wait till I have some time to fix it all up, but I'll post some pics when I do, incase anyone else decide to poke around in theirs. What am I looking for when I open it up? just loose connections and wires with insulation worn?

 

[PigsHaveFlown]

Also, if I find stacked pots does that mean my switch is for active/passive? And does it help troubleshoot by the fact that its only loud when the toggle is set to use the 6-way tone selector thingy.
Edit. by loud I mean that the white noise appears*

 

[Deathblade Eric]

The previous owner I bought it off said that there wasn't any modifications done to its as far as he knows, and that he order the pickup from Aria Japan, plus it was still wrapped when he gave it to me so who knows. The two-way has a round top, and its a light silver, looks like a normal toggle switch you can buy anywhere. Uh-oh I'll wait till I have some time to fix it all up, but I'll post some pics when I do, incase anyone else decide to poke around in theirs. What am I looking for when I open it up? just loose connections and wires with insulation worn?

OK, it seems like it's a Series 2 that's just being cantankerous in some way. The switch sounds like a replacement, purely based on the round top; as you say it's relatively easy to pick that style up - much harder to find flat-bladed ones & flat-bladed in black is like rocking horse ****.

What you'll find under the insulation tape is, as yet, a mystery. It could be a circuit board with an op-amp integrated circuit chip, or it could be built with transistors. Things to look for in either case:—

1) Loose/broken wiring. The wires are just poked through the PCB & soldered, if they get flexed they can break.
2) Look for any obvious scorch marks or dicolouration on either side of the PCB. That would indicate that something's burned out.
3) On the underside of the PCB look to see if any of the soldered pads are lifting away from the board. The copper tracks are only 0.3mm thick & glued on; sometimes they shift & break (especially if there's been a repair & someone's gone crazy with the iron). While you're at it, look to see if any of the solder joints are dull-looking - they should all be shiny, but a dull one can indicate a dry joint that can cause all sorts of weirdness.
4) Odds are you'll see one or more electrolytic capacitors. They'll be the biggest components on the board, probably black or blue & with a white polarity stripe down one side. Look to see if the tops are bulged up or even if they seem to be pushing themselves up off the board. Electrolytic Caps do go titzup with age & either dry out and fail or leak goo and fail - if they're leaky don't touch 'em, it's nasty stuff.

Also, if I find stacked pots does that mean my switch is for active/passive? And does it help troubleshoot by the fact that its only loud when the toggle is set to use the 6-way tone selector thingy.
Edit. by loud I mean that the white noise appears*

Yeah, that's what it should do, but without the noise. The stacked pots are a real piece of work; they're two different pot values on one shaft, so what the toggle does is to switch between high-value (for passive) & low-value (for active).

One other thing... On the larger cover plate that goes over the pots etc., are there two countersunk holes drilled through it?

Pete.

 

[PigsHaveFlown]

I haven't had time to check the PCB yet but, I'm not quite sure what you mean by counter sunk holes. There's sunken bits for the screw heads to fit in on the plate, but they're on each hole.
Fairly certain its a replacement switch because its bent, and it didn't come with a case which makes me think the guy had a soft case for it and the switch snapped off, which also probably explains why the knobs are missing too. About the knobs - I've been wondering what some les paul style gold speed knobs would look like on it, might match the brass bridge.

 

[Deathblade Eric]

I haven't had time to check the PCB yet but, I'm not quite sure what you mean by counter sunk holes. There's sunken bits for the screw heads to fit in on the plate, but they're on each hole.

Are there two in the middle of the plate - like on this one?

Fairly certain its a replacement switch because its bent, and it didn't come with a case which makes me think the guy had a soft case for it and the switch snapped off, which also probably explains why the knobs are missing too. About the knobs - I've been wondering what some les paul style gold speed knobs would look like on it, might match the brass bridge.

That's one thing with the original-style flat bladed toggles... they can be prone to snapping off if given a knock.

Personally I'd go for some black or gold solid aluminium knobs like these:

But whatever floats your boat. Any knob is better than no knob

P.

 

[PigsHaveFlown]

Nope, mine only has the holes around the outside of the plate. Does that help date it?
I wonder if maybe some gold fender p bass knobs would suit it aswell.

 

[Deathblade Eric]

Nope, mine only has the holes around the outside of the plate. Does that help date it?
I wonder if maybe some gold fender p bass knobs would suit it aswell.

The lack of holes tells us that it didn't have the 'Black Box' (BB) preamp, as that's how it was held in position. That in turn adds strength to the notion that it hasn't been messed around with too much, which is a Good Thing.

My natural-coloured SB-900 has black knurled Fender-type knobs & looks OK, so gold against the red ought to work.

 

[PigsHaveFlown]

Hey all,
sorry I abandoned thread a while ago but because the active mode has completely stopped working I've done what I should have done last year and peeled the insulation around the circuit board off and taken some pictures. I can't see any solder joints that have come loose so I guess maybe the capacitors have gone or the pre-amp box is gone, but I'm no expert. Whats my next step? Thanks.

 

[Deathblade Eric]

Hey all,
sorry I abandoned thread a while ago but because the active mode has completely stopped working I've done what I should have done last year and peeled the insulation around the circuit board off and taken some pictures. I can't see any solder joints that have come loose so I guess maybe the capacitors have gone or the pre-amp box is gone, but I'm no expert. Whats my next step? Thanks.

First up, I misinformed you earlier - yours **does** have the Black Box preamp but in this version it lives under the batteries. Odds are that's what's gone nasty. The board wrapped in tape is the LED flasher circuit.

Your best bet is to PM TB'er Prostheta & pick his brains - he's re-engineered the BB & sells them on Ebay for a very reasonable price. Have a look at the BB though, some of them were epoxy potted but some weren't. If yours isn't it could be repairable.

Have a trawl through this thread on Basschat:—

Invalid Link Removed

Lots of gen on the Mk.2 circuitry.

Pete.

 

[PigsHaveFlown]

Could the LED circuit effect the active passive mode at all? I think the capacitors are gone because they have the bumps on top like you said to look for, I'm not sure how well the photo captures it but there's raised bits on top of them. Is replacing them going to do much because the LED still flashes when there are batteries in?
I have looked at those replacement curcuits and I wasn't sure if it was what I needed, I don't wanna buy one and not need it. Is there any chance at all the pickup is causing it to not work in active? I don't see how it could if it still works in passive, but I just wonder why you would buy a new one if the old worked fine. Maybe its destined to end up in a franken-bass I make.

 

[Deathblade Eric]

Could the LED circuit effect the active passive mode at all? I think the capacitors are gone because they have the bumps on top like you said to look for, I'm not sure how well the photo captures it but there's raised bits on top of them. Is replacing them going to do much because the LED still flashes when there are batteries in?

If it did, I reckon you'd just hear a click like a metronome as the timing circuitry broke through. I can't see any bulging on the caps, but they're easy (& cheap) enough to replace - just make sure you get them in the right way round!

I have looked at those replacement curcuits and I wasn't sure if it was what I needed, I don't wanna buy one and not need it. Is there any chance at all the pickup is causing it to not work in active? I don't see how it could if it still works in passive, but I just wonder why you would buy a new one if the old worked fine. Maybe its destined to end up in a franken-bass I make.

Can't see the pickup being at fault since it works in passive mode - all the signs point to the black box screwing up.

When I got my SB-1000 back together I went for a totally passive option, & wired it so that the toggle switch drops the multi-way Varitone control in or out. Vol, Tone + Varitone keeps it simple but with plenty of options. I had to replace the pots, but you wouldn't since you could just wire it all up using the 250K half of each pot.

Somewhere I have a schematic for that mod if you fancy it.

P.

 

[PigsHaveFlown]

Okay, looks like I'll be ordering the replacement pre-amp as soon as I get the money. I think I'll keep it wired as it is for now, because I've never really heard what its meant to sound like when its working, I might change my mind afterwards though. Does the passive setup give it more low end?

 

[Deathblade Eric]

Does the passive setup give it more low end?

Can't say, my SB-1000 was fried when I got it & the drop-in BBs were in the future so I've never been able to do a comparison. If anything my current wiring ought to boost the top end slightly as I used 500k pots.

That said, I doubt it. The BB is (as far as I could tell) a unity gain amp, so it doesn't actually ramp up the voltage from the pickups - instead it beefs up the current so that the signal suffers less loss/noise if you use a long lead.

The volume, tone control & the varitone are passive & sit after the BB in the Mk 1 Batwing SB-1000 & the toggle switch just drops the varitone in or out. I think this might change in later models like yours.

I run mine wide open with the varitone a couple of notches back from the treble end. Amp (Ashdown Superfly or Ibanez Promethean) I set flat & then boost the mids a touch. Sits in the mix nicely with plenty of definition - I cannot be doing with the woolly mush that some people seem to like.

P.