Bad potentiometers on Spector Euro

[Crackle]

Hi all. I have a 2001 Spector Euro (not LX) that came from the factory with the Aguilar OBP-1 preamp and an EMG PJ pickup set. The controls are volume, volume, bass, and treble. All four pots continuously get scratchy and my attempts to clean them have failed.

At this point, I would like to replace all four pots with high-quality pots of the same values. The original pots are miniature, but I don't know whether that is the only size that will fit. I have doubts that is the case. I can't currently say what the existing values are, but I need to match all of the following:

Volume: Impedance and audio vs. linear taper
Bass: Impedance and audio vs. linear taper
Treble: Impedance and audio vs. linear taper

Can anyone suggest pots that have identical values and will physically fit this bass? I would prefer high-quality pots such as Bournes or otherwise. Sorry but I can't find any information on the current pots.

 

[Crackle]

I just learned about Caig DeoxIT F5. I think I will try that before taking more drastic action. I would still appreciate any info about the specs for replacement pots.

 

[Aloe]

All four? Either you're very unlucky, or it's something else that makes this sound. Do you keep your hand on strings while turning the pots, to be sure, it's not the ground?

The obp-1 needs a25k bass and treble pots, as specified in the owner's manual. Active EMG pickups would expect something like b25k in a two-volume configuration.

When you'll take the pots off, you'll likely see their specs on the front.

 

[Crackle]

All four? Either you're very unlucky, or it's something else that makes this sound. Do you keep your hand on strings while turning the pots, to be sure, it's not the ground?

The obp-1 needs a25k bass and treble pots, as specified in the owner's manual. Active EMG pickups would expect something like b25k in a two-volume configuration.

When you'll take the pots off, you'll likely see their specs on the front.

Yes, all four pots get scratchy. The only limited success I have had is by either rotating the pots rapidly to knock off the corrosion, or using contact cleaner. This isn't a ground issue -- the knobs are plastic, so it doesn't matter whether I touch them.

I have owned this bass since 2016 and this has been a problem all that time. It's a bass I use on rare occasions, so it hasn't been a huge issue to deal with.

Thanks for the info about re: specs for replacement pots. I'm going to try lubricating the pots after cleaning again to see if that keeps the pots from corroding again.

 

[Minimalist]

I would suspect that the bass had been in fairly high humid environment.

I have a similar issue (not too bad though) if I don't run a dehumidifier in my man cave.

 

[ddnidd1]

Given the history of the pots, your best bet is replacement. If they're not replaced, it will just be an ongoing issue.

 

[Code Brown]

your best bet is replacement. If they're not replaced, it will just be an ongoing issue.

Maybe not. Caig DeoxIT can potentially return pots to like new condition. But I agree that replacement in best. Quality pots are relatively cheap and easy to source. And usually easy to replace with basic soldering skills and equipment.

 

[LowzFreq]

I had the same problem on 3 new Euro 5 LX with Tonepump preamp and EMG 40DC pickups.

the first was the bass pot which cracked badly from the start, then the treble pot started cracking only a few days later, I tried to clean it with a contact spray but it got worse, the pot was only on/off, being within the 30-day money-back guarantee, the seller asked me to send it back (in Germany, online purchase).

They sent me a second one, and the pots worked properly for 1 and a half months, then the treble and bass pots started to sputter. I tried to clean them with contact spray (at a luthier's this time), but the problem was always here. I contact the seller, who asks me to send the bass back for repair (covered by the warranty), I receive it 2/3 weeks later, the pots have been changed and are working as they should, 1 week later, I realize that the varnish is cracking around the battery block, right up to the small horn! The seller asked me to send it back because it was under warranty. After waiting 3 weeks, they told me it couldn't be repaired and gave me a full refund because they no longer had any in stock.

For the third one, on another online store (also German), they have one (it's the only one in stock), I bought it, I received it, the 4 pots were sputtering! I'm disgusted , it's new, it cost me 2900€, but as the bass sounds much better than the 2 previous ones, I kept it. Now I'm waiting to receive KF F2 spray, we'll see... I have 2 replacement tone pots that Michalik sent me because I had contacted him from the start to find out what he thought. What's more, I haven't been able to find a site on the Internet that sells these pots with these particular characteristics, so the only way was for Michalik to send them to me.

Another solution is to change the preamp and switch to the Emg BQC system or Darkglass Tone capsule, but you have to touch up the holes and I don't really like that, especially since I like the tonepump.

 

[Deleted member 271037]

I just learned about Caig DeoxIT F5.

I'm going to try lubricating the pots after cleaning again to see if that keeps the pots from corroding again.

If you just learned about Deoxit, what did you actually use to clean the pots? If you have used anything other than deoxidation spray, the pots are probably ruined now.

Do NOT "lubricate" the pots. Any kind of lubrication will attract dust, turn into a sticky mess, and ruin the pots.

While "corrosion" can technically also include "oxidation" they're not the same thing. Oxidation can happen without corrosion. The process that make pots scratchy is oxidation, and it should be treated as such, with deoxidation spray (like Deoxit or similar). You must NEVER use any kind of anti-corrotion products (or "contact cleaners" with any kind of lubrication that leaves a residue) inside pots. This will ruin them. If not instantly, then definitely over time. The most commonly used product to RUIN pots seems to be WD-40, and people still keep recommending it, even here on Talkbass... Don't EVER use WD-40, or any similar types of products to "clean" pots.

I've certainly seen lots of corroded pots too, but mostly in far older instruments. I would be surprised if the pots are actually corroded in an instrument from 2001 (unless it has been treated very poorly or kept in a boathouse close to the sea or something...). And even if the pots ARE corroded they should NEVER be exposed to any kind of anti-corrosion products. Deoxidation spray can still very often fix them though, even when the pots look like a corroded mess.

On a bass from 2001 I would have expected scratchy pots to (most likely) become good as new with deoxidation spray, but if you've sprayed something else into them they're most likely ruined now.

And don't go crazy with deoxidation sprays either, that won't do you any good. A little goes a long way. Sometimes you may need to spray the pots once, let them sit for a day and spray them again the next day.

Sometimes it won't work though, and the pots will need to be replaced. But 95% of the time, even on much older instruments, deoxidation spray WILL fix scratchy pots, as long as someone hasn't sprayed something else into them and ruined them.

Avoid spilling anything on the finish. Pressurized chemicals can be very cold when you spray them, which can make the finish crack. This will probably not be an issue with modern, more robust finishes but it can definitely happen on older instruments, with a more fragile finish (and please don't ask me how I know this...).

If you need to ask about the pot values, I have a feeling you don't have the soldering skills to replace them yourself? If that's the case, you don't really need to know the values. Just bring the bass to a guitar workshop. They will be able to identify the pots and replace them with the correct values (which I'm guessing is PROBABLY either A25k or B25k or a combinations of both). It's an easy job, IF you know what you're doing. And if you don't... Leave it alone and let a professional fix it. Sorting out other people's mess inside guitar electronics can turn something that originally was a fast/easy job into something far more expensive. Especially with active electronics.

 

[Deleted member 271037]

Now I'm waiting to receive KF F2 spray, we'll see...

Are you absolutely sure this product is suitable for pots? Because that's a type of product I would personally NEVER spray into pots, although I have no personal experience with THAT specific product.

 

[LowzFreq]

I'm not sure of anything. On another forum a person recommended the KF F2 or the KONTAKT 60 that he has been using for years without problems. DeoxIT is difficult to obtain in Europe and is expensive. And which one should be applied? In places some say the D5, others say especially not the D5 but the one for Fader. Honestly, I don't know what to believe anymore.

Edit:
I just looked on the Caig website, I need the Fader F5: Carbon-based controls (potentiometers) and membrane switches (Mouse pointers, touch keypads).

Do you confirm?

 

[Deleted member 271037]

I'm not sure of anything. On another forum a person recommended the KF F2 or the KONTAKT 60 that he has been using for years without problems. DeoxIT is difficult to obtain in Europe and is expensive. And which one should be applied? In places some say the D5, others say especially not the D5 but the one for Fader. Honestly, I don't know what to believe anymore.

People on forums recommend WD40 for cleaning pots too. That doesn't make it right.

To be honest I don't have personal experience with any of those two products. For all I know they might work great. I'm just generally wary about products I don't have any personal experience with. If they have deoxidating properties and don't leave a sticky residue they're probably ok. But don't take my word for it, I haven't tried them, and I couldn't find any specs for them either (just a quick google search though). At least they shouldn't be anywhere near as bad as WD40.

Personally I've had bad results with several products described as "contact cleaners" rather than "deoxidation/oxide cleaners" (when specifically used with pots).

 

[LowzFreq]

Will the DeoxIT Fader F5 end up killing the pots?

 

[scuzzy]

decent video here



I have used the QD in a pinch with good results.

 

[Crackle]

If you just learned about Deoxit, what did you actually use to clean the pots? If you have used anything other than deoxidation spray, the pots are probably ruined now.

Do NOT "lubricate" the pots. Any kind of lubrication will attract dust, turn into a sticky mess, and ruin the pots.

While "corrosion" can technically also include "oxidation" they're not the same thing. Oxidation can happen without corrosion. The process that make pots scratchy is oxidation, and it should be treated as such, with deoxidation spray (like Deoxit or similar). You must NEVER use any kind of anti-corrotion products (or "contact cleaners" with any kind of lubrication that leaves a residue) inside pots. This will ruin them. If not instantly, then definitely over time. The most commonly used product to RUIN pots seems to be WD-40, and people still keep recommending it, even here on Talkbass... Don't EVER use WD-40, or any similar types of products to "clean" pots.

I've certainly seen lots of corroded pots too, but mostly in far older instruments. I would be surprised if the pots are actually corroded in an instrument from 2001 (unless it has been treated very poorly or kept in a boathouse close to the sea or something...). And even if the pots ARE corroded they should NEVER be exposed to any kind of anti-corrosion products. Deoxidation spray can still very often fix them though, even when the pots look like a corroded mess.

On a bass from 2001 I would have expected scratchy pots to (most likely) become good as new with deoxidation spray, but if you've sprayed something else into them they're most likely ruined now.

And don't go crazy with deoxidation sprays either, that won't do you any good. A little goes a long way. Sometimes you may need to spray the pots once, let them sit for a day and spray them again the next day.

Sometimes it won't work though, and the pots will need to be replaced. But 95% of the time, even on much older instruments, deoxidation spray WILL fix scratchy pots, as long as someone hasn't sprayed something else into them and ruined them.

Avoid spilling anything on the finish. Pressurized chemicals can be very cold when you spray them, which can make the finish crack. This will probably not be an issue with modern, more robust finishes but it can definitely happen on older instruments, with a more fragile finish (and please don't ask me how I know this...).

If you need to ask about the pot values, I have a feeling you don't have the soldering skills to replace them yourself? If that's the case, you don't really need to know the values. Just bring the bass to a guitar workshop. They will be able to identify the pots and replace them with the correct values (which I'm guessing is PROBABLY either A25k or B25k or a combinations of both). It's an easy job, IF you know what you're doing. And if you don't... Leave it alone and let a professional fix it. Sorting out other people's mess inside guitar electronics can turn something that originally was a fast/easy job into something far more expensive. Especially with active electronics.

Here's the deal. A number of months ago, I used a tiny amount of WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner on all four pots. Then I put the bass back into storage until last weekend and - once I plugged it in - the pots were scratchy again. Yesterday afternoon, I cleaned the pots a second time with the WD-40. Note that this variety of WD-40 does not contain oil.

The pots cleaned up fairly well but got scratchy again within a few minutes. So last night, I purchased the DeoxIT F5 and followed the instructions. I set the spray volume on low and then sprayed three short bursts into each pot and rotated the pots through their full range several times. I repeated the process one more time. All four pots are now working normally with no noise. I tested the bass again this morning and - 10 hours later - the pots are still working normally without noise.

To clarify, I never intended to lubricate the pots with anything other than DeoxIT F5. I still have limited knowledge about this product but understand that it lubricates electronics properly.

I'm no expert in soldering, but I often work on my own electronics with good results. That said, the wiring in this bass is much more elaborate than working on a P or J bass and I don't look forward to digging into it. I could manually test the pots to determine their resistance values but I think they would have to be removed from the circuit to do so. And even then, I'm not sure how to determine audio vs. linear taper. If it ever comes down to it, would this be correct?

Both volume pots should be a25k (audio taper)
Both EQ pots should be b25k (linear taper)

Thanks for all the information.

 

[Aloe]

Both volume pots should be a25k (audio taper)
Both EQ pots should be b25k (linear taper)

it's backwards, as written in the third message in this thread.

it will work the way around, but the volumes will be more 'on-off switch' than a blend and the EQ taper would be uhm, strange.

I could manually test the pots to determine their resistance values but I think they would have to be removed from the circuit to do so.

just screw them out (without disconnecting) and likely you'll see the value of the pots written on the front of them, like in this picture:

A250K Guitar Pot

Fits electric guitar Made of metal alloy Metric Size,18mm split shaft,6mm diameter knurled shaft A250K Audio Taper

jjmusicsales.com

not all pots do have this label, but most do. others have it (or some obscure code to be looked up) written on their backs.

 

[Gearhead17]

OP, I am sorry to hear about your issues with you Spector Bass. I suggest you replace all of the knobs and the preamp at once. Start fresh and rid yourself of any further issues. You should not have to deal with ANY noise from the Aguilar OBP-1. A 25k Volume pot is likely what you need.

You can also start a conversation directly with Aguilar and get the REAL answers you need.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[ddnidd1]

The only Deoxit to use on pots is D5. Last resort.