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Basic Joiner set up questions

#2
I recently replaced my blades as well, but they were a good fit brand new. (majorly 'scarred' the virtually new 'old' blades by joining a piece of wood with big ass staples in it :p )
As far as adjusting the tables, what I did was set the in-feed table on the right to it's "0" or neutral point, and work off that to adjust the left out-feed table, using a level or straightedge, of course.
I have no idea if this is actually the correct thing to do, but it seems to joint fine currently.
I have had a re-occuring problem when joining where the very end (last inch or so) of some boards 'dropped', if that makes any sense. I figure this is definitely USER setup ERROR......and one reason why I'd like to work with/under an experienced woodworker someday.
 
#3
the basic theory goes like this:

1. set the new knives in the cutter head.
2. find the one knife which is tallest when the cutter head is rotated to top dead center.
3. using a straightedge, set the outfeed table to that exact height.
4. using the same straightedge in the same position, set the other knives to the same height. this is important so the knives wear equally and don't chatter.
5. the infeed table adjusts as normal, according to how much material you're removing.

note: this all assumes that the tables are parallel to each other.

some companies make magnetic jigs to assist with this, but the same principles apply.

JSP - the snipe you're seeing at the end of the board might be because the outfeed table is too low, or the tables aren't quite parallel.

have patience and good luck!
 

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