Bass neck vs. body weights and neck dive...

[SoulReflection]

Having owned a few basses in my time, I have found that those without neck dive are generally heavier (over 8.5 lbs). I know that body weights can vary greatly but not so much about neck weights.

Has anyone ever weighed different necks from the same make/model?

I am beginning to think that a bass that weighs 8.5 to 9.5 lbs. may be better balanced.

Thoughts?

 

[Gigglingbuns]

Weight distribution heavily, heavily varies due to wood types, design of body/neck, hardware material and placement. It's okay to say that you've found that basses in that 8.5-9.5 were better balanced, but at the end of the day, weight distribution will even vary between the same bass model (less so), but you don't really know until you have it on your shoulder.

One thing I'm curious about is people who claim to have balanced basses while standing, does it apply while you are sitting. The point of contact is usually somewhere on the bottom of the body and your thigh. I know some people prefer to play with the neck nearly perpendicular to the ground, others like it tilted up, but I'd like to hear people's opinion on this.

 

[groove pump]

I've become leery of basses with upper horns that don't extend to the 12th fret or beyond. If it only reaches let's say the 13th or 14th fret, that usually puts too much of the instrument's weight on the neck side of the strap button and neck dive is pretty much guaranteed there.

I think the materials and craftsmanship of Warwick basses are great, but I had a really nice German built Corvette that taught me the lesson of the short upper horn many years ago. When I talked with my luthier about maybe building some sort of prosthetic extension for that upper horn to get the balance under control, he just offered that maybe it was time to shop for a different bass... I did that.

A standard (not compact) Jazz or Precision style body usually has enough of that upper horn extension for decent balance, but I have a parts bass with a Warmoth Jazz neck that's rather heavy - it has steel rods to reinforce it instead of lighter graphite rods. It's a rock solid neck, but it's a little beefy. While it doesn't make for serious neck dive like that Corvette from back in the day, it doesn't quite sit upright as naturally as a similar bass with a lighter neck. It also doesn't bother me too much because it plays easy enough (low action!!) and sounds great.

I'm not in a hurry to take that bass apart, but if I do in the near future, I'll weigh the neck and check back here. I should also note that I have traditional tuners (Gotoh?) on that Jazz, but I might eventually swap them out for some lighter options. That's probably all that this bass needs to balance exactly right.

 

[Gigglingbuns]

I've become leery of basses with upper horns that don't extend to the 12th fret or beyond. If it only reaches let's say the 13th or 14th fret, that usually puts too much of the instrument's weight on the neck side of the strap button and neck dive is pretty much guaranteed there.

I think the materials and craftsmanship of Warwick basses are great, but I had a really nice German built Corvette that taught me the lesson of the short upper horn many years ago. When I talked with my luthier about maybe building some sort of prosthetic extension for that upper horn to get the balance under control, he just offered that maybe it was time to shop for a different bass... I did that.

A standard (not compact) Jazz or Precision style body usually has enough of that upper horn extension for decent balance, but I have a parts bass with a Warmoth Jazz neck that's rather heavy - it has steel rods to reinforce it instead of lighter graphite rods. It's a rock solid neck, but it's a little beefy. While it doesn't make for serious neck dive like that Corvette from back in the day, it doesn't quite sit upright as naturally as a similar bass with a lighter neck. It also doesn't bother me too much because it plays easy enough (low action!!) and sounds great.

I'm not in a hurry to take that bass apart, but if I do in the near future, I'll weigh the neck and check back here. I should also note that I have traditional tuners (Gotoh?) on that Jazz, but I might eventually swap them out for some lighter options. That's probably all that this bass needs to balance exactly right.

Yea standard jazz/precision style bodies have a pretty respectably thick body compared slim rounded out bodies from companies like Ibanez with their SR series. Ibanez's BTB series though have a completely different body and neck design, which makes for some balanced, but heavy basses 10lbs+

 

[SoulReflection]

I've become leery of basses with upper horns that don't extend to the 12th fret or beyond. If it only reaches let's say the 13th or 14th fret, that usually puts too much of the instrument's weight on the neck side of the strap button and neck dive is pretty much guaranteed there.

I think the materials and craftsmanship of Warwick basses are great, but I had a really nice German built Corvette that taught me the lesson of the short upper horn many years ago. When I talked with my luthier about maybe building some sort of prosthetic extension for that upper horn to get the balance under control, he just offered that maybe it was time to shop for a different bass... I did that.

A standard (not compact) Jazz or Precision style body usually has enough of that upper horn extension for decent balance, but I have a parts bass with a Warmoth Jazz neck that's rather heavy - it has steel rods to reinforce it instead of lighter graphite rods. It's a rock solid neck, but it's a little beefy. While it doesn't make for serious neck dive like that Corvette from back in the day, it doesn't quite sit upright as naturally as a similar bass with a lighter neck. It also doesn't bother me too much because it plays easy enough (low action!!) and sounds great.

I'm not in a hurry to take that bass apart, but if I do in the near future, I'll weigh the neck and check back here. I should also note that I have traditional tuners (Gotoh?) on that Jazz, but I might eventually swap them out for some lighter options. That's probably all that this bass needs to balance exactly right.

My Mustang PJ needed HipShot Ultra Lite tuners and HiMass bridge. It weighed approx. 7.8lbs before and after.
My Squier Jag weighed 7.9 lbs (stock) and balance perfectly.

Like you, the next time I need to remove the necks on either one, I will weigh necks and bodies of each and report back here.

 

[Watchootognbout]

My basses are sixers.
They both weigh 10.5 lbs.
One is neck through.

They would not balance if I did not use a Comfort Strapp.

I like my basses to hang at a 45 degree.
So I can fret whithout holding the neck up.

When I sit,the neck is at the same angle.
The bass is propped in between my legs and the horn is up against my chest.
I also always wear a strap while sitting.

 

[SoulReflection]

My basses are sixers.
They would not balance if I did not use a Comfort Strapp.
I like my basses to hang at a 45 degree.
So I can fret whithout holding the neck up.
View attachment 3413268View attachment 3413273


When I sit,the neck is at the same angle.
The bass is propped in between my legs and the horn is up against my chest.
I also always wear a strap while sitting.
View attachment 3413274

Yep, I added a Comfort Strapp to my PJ as well.

I imagine a six string would have more weight but, in comparison with four string necks, I am thinking neck weights do not vary as much as body weights.

 

[Gigglingbuns]

Yep, I added a Comfort Strapp to my PJ as well.

I imagine a six string would have more weight but, in comparison with four string necks, I am thinking neck weights to not vary as much as body weights.

neck materials also vary respectably as you go up/down price brackets, shape maybe not as much, there are thick and thin necks. With most basses having a slight majority of the weight on the body, it makes sense for body weights to vary more.