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Bass number two: 4-string headless single cut

+10. esp. the long ones. please tell me they are fingerboards!

Hope I don't get death threats, but those are gonna just be accent stripes...:hiding: Figured the edge grain would be just as interesting...

There was actually even better stuff in the highly-figured cocobolo pile at TEH, I just didn't think that it would have been appropriate for what I'm using it for. Cocobolo w/sapwood is quite possibly my favorite wood on the planet.
 
Getting closer to getting some real work done...

First, after seeing Wilser's Safe-T-Planer setup on youtube, I made a similar table out of an Ikea bookshelf, carriage bolts, and huge plastic Rockler wing nuts. Got it perfectly level using the instructions (that I should have read to begin with,) and got some pretty awesome results with a test piece, much better than I got just trying to wing it...Key to the safe-t-planer is a level table, and run it FAST! I was using it on 700rpm, it grabbed my work a lot, and caused some tearouts. At 3200rpm it worked really smooth. This tool is gonna be KEY to getting this bass done.

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I have a little problem. Got my order from LMII today: fiber sandwich material, truss rod, evo fret wire, and a slotted cocobolo fretboard. It's a nice fretboard, but compare it to the cocobolo I bought yesterday...

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So it looks like I need to man up and cut my own fret slots. I need to do my homework on slotting jigs, and find an appropriate fret saw.
 
My black Bunker bridges shipped today! I'll post some pics when they arrive. I haven't seen these close up, so buying them was a leap of faith, but I've heard great things and I like how they mount to the bass, going by the instrutions on the site.

thought I'd share the inspiration on this bass... Imagine if this was the mommy:
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and this was teh daddy:
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Tweaked my safe-t-planer setup a little bit. Let me say first, that the little pamphlet that comes with this tool says "Impossible to grab or kick back." BS. RESPECT THIS TOOL. Work slow, set your depth shallow, keep your fingers away from the cutting head, and be aware of the blade motion in relation to the grain of the wood you are planing. The tool works well and planes nicely, but it WILL GRAB AND KICK BACK if you're not careful.

I set up my shop-vac to blow the chips away as I work. It makes a mess, but you get better results, because debris on the table affects depth of cut--not to mention I always wear a respirator when doing dusty work, so I can't blow the table clear.

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I planed my layers to the design thicknesses, and cut up my LMII fiber sheets. I'm using the .020" black fiber. It cuts easily with scissors, but by no means does it feel like construction paper. Feels more like plastic. Reminds me of the old-school "Bone-ite" that Powell Peralta put in their skateboard decks in the mid-late 80's. This combo is looking pretty good, I think:

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Mixed up some epoxy, got crackin':

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