Bass Problems...

[Attention]

Ok, so, I Have a regular electric Aria bass guitar which I use on a daily basis with my amp. Just today, I was playing a song - which I finished, I went to play it again, and nothing. No bass sound was being received through my amp.

I took out my lead and reset the amp, tried again - nothing. I took out the lead again, and touched it, the amp made noise (as expected). I then decided that it was most likely a problem with the bass itself. I took off the back panel and looked inside, everything seemed normal.

I then thought perhaps the problem was with the pickups, I tried to take them off also, but couldn't due to the short wires holding them in. So, that is my problem.

Please message if you have any solutions or ideas. Any idea is appreciated

I'd like to avoid going to a bass repairer if possible.

Thanks in advance

 

[Deathblade Eric]

Some more information would help...

What model of Aria is it - one of the old school SB/SB-R/RSBs or the more recent 'generic' Precision/Jazz models?

Is it active (i.e. does it have a battery compartment)?

If you could post a photo of the control compartment, that'd help a lot. Odds are it's something simple like a detached wire or a short circuit around the jack socket.

 

[Bluebassmike]

if its active might just need some new batteries

 

[Attention]

Some more information would help...

What model of Aria is it - one of the old school SB/SB-R/RSBs or the more recent 'generic' Precision/Jazz models?

Is it active (i.e. does it have a battery compartment)?

If you could post a photo of the control compartment, that'd help a lot. Odds are it's something simple like a detached wire or a short circuit around the jack socket.

The bass is not active. As this is the first bass I have owned, I didn't buy it. I believe it's second hand and it is an Aria IGB-30. Here is a photo:

I took off the thing at the back, and heres what it revealed:

Like I said, I don't know anything about any of this technical stuff - so just say if you need any more pictures Thanks for the reply!

if its active might just need some new batteries

Nope, not active Thanks for the reply!

 

[Deathblade Eric]

Nothing leaps out, although it's a little hard to tell as your pics are a bit fuzzy.

One thing that it could be is the barrel jack. These have a bit of a reputation for failing, so it **might* be that. So... two more questions...

1: Do you have access to a test meter (multimeter) or continuity tester?
2: Does your cable have 'oversize' plugs (Monster or Planet Waves)?

Those little lugs near the body cause more problems than they solve in my experience.

 

[Attention]

Nothing leaps out, although it's a little hard to tell as your pics are a bit fuzzy.

One thing that it could be is the barrel jack. These have a bit of a reputation for failing, so it **might* be that. So... two more questions...

1: Do you have access to a test meter (multimeter) or continuity tester?
2: Does your cable have 'oversize' plugs (Monster or Planet Waves)?

Those little lugs near the body cause more problems than they solve in my experience.

Yeah... I was thinking that too. My lead is normal, it doesn't have those lugs as you said. And I don't currently have direct access to a multimeter, but Im sure I could get a hold of one from somewhere...

 

[Deathblade Eric]

Yeah... I was thinking that too. My lead is normal, it doesn't have those lugs as you said. And I don't currently have direct access to a multimeter, but Im sure I could get a hold of one from somewhere...

One possible cause ruled out then, but it could still be that the socket has failed. My SB-1000 socket went about a month ago - split in two! Still, it had done 35 years service, so I guess that's not too shabby

Anyhoo... Get multimeter, set it to Ohms (if there's a 'range' option go for something around 20-50Kohms), then do these two tests (in any order):

Test 1:—With the volume control at one extreme measure the resistance between the white & black wires that emerge from the body. If it's zero, turn the volume pot to the other extreme & re-measure; you **should** get a reading of around 10Kohms. If it's still zero (unlikely) then your pickup is shorted, if it reads 'infinity' (i.e. a blank screen or the needle at the end stop) then your pickup is open circuit.

If you get a reading of around 10Kohms (or at least more than 5K) all is good with the pickup & suspicion reverts to the jack.

Test 2:—Set the multimeter to its lowest ohms range. Plug a lead into the jack & measure
1) White wire on socket to tip of lead;
2) Black wire on socket to sleeve of lead;
3) White to Black.

1 & 2 ought to read zero (or as near as). If either read infinity then something in the socket is open circuit & the socket needs replacing.
3 should read infinite, if it reads low/zero then the socket is shorting & needs replacing.

Barrel jacks can be a righteous PITA as there's no way they can be repaired unlike the simple 'open frame' type.

Pete.

 

[Deathblade Eric]

A couple of other things are bothering me a little...

1: I can't see a ground link to the volume pot, just a big blob of solder that I guess shorts the pot tag to the casing but doesn't connect the casing to ground.
2: there's a bit of a 'rat nest' of wiring around the tone pot that seems excessive for such a simple configuration. Any chance of a clearer picture of this? It may well be worth untangling this - but that'll mean you have to unfasten the barrel jack and the tone pot.

P.