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BEAD

Get a set of balanced strings to even out the pressure on the neck. Might have to make the nut slot a little bigger for the e string, I just tub the old e string back and forth a little bit to open it up. Depending on the tension of the strings you might want to set it up and adjust the truss rod afterwards. There are threads with more in depth answers
 
I do this and love it. I'm not going back to EADG.

You just need to widen your nut slots and buy appropriate strings. Then you need to re-intonate your saddles as they will all move back a bit.

It's really a much more sensible range for a "Bass"
 
I've been playing for over 20 years and tried 5'ers for a year or two. But I kept wanting to play my 4 string P, J, and 4001. Switching between 4 and 5 messed with my head. I recently converted my P and J bases to BEAD and sold my 5'ers. I love it. It allows me to add some lower notes on occasion for effect, transpose keys easier, and play mid neck instead of in first postion. I never missed the G string, just play higher up the neck for those notes.

The only mods I did were opening the slots in the nut a bit using an appropiate sized drill bit with some 220 sand paper wrapped around it. I did need to adjust (loosen) the truss rods and set saddle height and intonation.

I'm seriously considering converting my '76 Ric 4001 next.:bassist:
 
One thing I failed to mention: I use the BEAD strings from a standard 5 string set. My daughter uses the extra G strings for jewelery making (for some reason that just doesn't sound right... LOL). Trying to detune that far with standard EADG strings would be a mess.

I did have an issue with one set of strings that tapered to a smaller guage at the bridge end. It caused a strange vibration and lack of sustain on the B string only. I swapped that string with one that is consistent in size all the way to the ferrel and the problem went away.

I did research custom BEAD sets online, but for me it was cheaper to buy 5 string sets locally.
 
I have a 5 string that I played at first, but the novelty wore off. I just have no need for the B. Recently, I changed it's tuning to EADGC. LOVE IT! I'm up, down, and all over my neck. I personally have a use for that high C and work the hell out of it. I pretty much only used my B for a thumbrest. I use D'Addario 160s - .105 .085 .070 .050 - on all of my basses, except for my fretless (nylons). I bought a dozen of single .030s for the C. Had to re-set my bass afterward.

I know. I know. He's asking about down-tuning, not up-tuning. But, they're in the same spectrum, just at opposite ends.
 
Just curious...what would have happened if no truss rod adjustment was made?

Depends on the gauge of strings you use and would use. I'll use my gauges as an example. According to D'Addario's string tension chart, tension on a .050 tuned to G is 53.4. Tension on a .130 tuned to B is 34.5. Assuming you use the same gauge strings for your EAD both before and after after down-tuning, your overall string tension would be reduced by 18.9. That would cause your neck to straighten a little bit, maybe even become a little convex, depending upon how straight you currently have your neck. You'd probably get an ugly fret buzz if you didn't adjust your truss. In general, your bass would need tweaking. I have a P Elite II and use those specs to set up all of my basses. Here's a link: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] After you do it once or twice, it's suprisingly easy. Get a digital micrometer for measuring. You can get one at amazon.com for less than $10. You'll also need a capo. Everything else you probably already have. All musicians should learn how to set up their tools of the trade. It's a skill you'll be glad you learned. Your friends will be, too. I've saved about $5000 over the past 25 years, simply by setting up all of my own basses. And, they play and sound awesome!
 

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