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Best bass around $300?

This bass is well below your budget but I'm going to suggest it anyway.

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I paid around $155 shipped for the bass. I modded it with a different bridge, pickguard, wiring, strings and a set of used Fender Geddy Lee pickups. I still have under $300 in it and it is one of best playing and sounding basses I have owned.
 
bassmanrocke said:
90's USA peaveys typically go for under $300 and are great buys. I have several Foundations, a Fury, a Forum, a Unity, and a Dyna-Bass. I paid less than $200 for each and would say they are at least as good quality as Fenders from the same period, if not better.

What he said...80s Peavey basses are some of the best secrets in bassdom. Well, not anymore I guess. The OP would be making a mistake by not trying one out.
 
What some of you guys are missing is that the OP lives on an island, literally. Local availability is going to be limited and shipping costs are higher coming into Canada, plus taxes for personal purchases.

Buying your first ever bass online without feeling it out isn't something I personally would recommend, unless you have at least tried them out in a music store beforehand - IMO.
 
I will give you some advice. I have seen people say this. Opinions are great, but your opinion is the one that matters.

I have had a Mexican Fender Jazz 5 string for over ten years but I never really liked it. Even after my uncle hot rodded it, put a custom bridge on it, put active electronics in it and bassline pickups. It just never seemed me.

I decided to give bass another go and I decided on a Gretsch G2202 4 string short scale. It is very much me and I love it and I am now learning bass and having fun. It is completely different from my first bass.

So my real advise is play the basses available near you. Pick something you love. If you don't love the feel, look, or sound you won't want to play it. Music is a personal thing and it doesn't take a lot of knowledge of a certain instrument to know what you think of it. My 5 string never felt natural to play or hold, my new Gretsch feels natural and I love it. Make sure you like what you buy.
 
the affinities do suck, but I've been seeing raving reviews of the squier modified vintage jazz bass which sells for about $300 new. But, my best advice would be to look for a used bass on Craigslist or ebay. I just purchased a used Sterling Musicman that sells for $600 new for $350. The best thing about buying used equipment is, if you want to sell it later on you don't lose any money. I could sell my Sterling for around the same price I paid for it at anytime.

I think the Squier Modified Jazz bass is a pretty dead on choice for you.
It's a $300 Jazz and fretless. You'd probably have a lot of fun.:bassist:
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/bass/squier-vintage-modified-fretless-jazz-bass
 
Consider this: $300 isn't going to get you a killer bass that you will want to keep forever. You can spend even less and get a good bass to learn on for now. You can pick up a used OLP MM2 that is a Stingray copy for around $100 on eBay. Out of five basses I owned, my OLP MM2 comes in as second best. I like it better than the American Fender P-bass and Rickenbacker 4004 that I also owned. You can add an Aguilar OBP-1 preamp to the MM2 for around $100 (if you do the work yourself and shop around for the preamp) later and bring it up to near original Stingray specs. Mine has a better neck than the P-bass and Rick and it has a lightweight basswood body that really gives it a good tone and takes a load off your shoulders as well. Just because basswood is inexpensive, don't think it's second rate for an electric bass. Think of it as BASSwood. An OLP MM2 fits in any case that will take a Leo Fender bass, saving you money there as well.

Of course, my Spector ReBop 4 blows away any bass I owned before, including the Rickenbacker 4004 and Fender P-bass. It has the Tone Pump preamp made by Aguilar which powers active tone controls. The pickups remain passive and have passive attributes, while the active tone controls will drive any length of cable or amplifier input you choose to drive. The tone control range is much larger than any passive tone control without the weird impedance variations that exist within passive tone controls (I am a degreed electronic technician, so this is not opinion but fact).

I called up Spector to get a user manual when I bought my used ReBop, and got P.J. Rubal on the line (this is common, the co-owner of Spector usually answers all service enquiries, email or phone.....almost unheard of these days). He admitted that the ReBop was his favorite out of all the Spector basses, even though it was the lowest priced of all the USA/Euro models. Why? Because the combination of alder body, bolt-on maple neck reinforced with graphite, and aluminum locking bridge gave it a punchiness of tone that no other Spector bass had, outside of a USA bolt-on Spector of similar construction at a much higher cost. Imagine if you had a P-bass that had the range of tone of the best modern basses, or a J-bass on steroids with quiet humbuckers. That is a ReBop.

I got mine for a lowball $404 bid on eBay (with gig bag), and I was shocked at what I got for my money. It blew away the used Rick 4004 I paid $800 for. I recently saw a used ReBop in excellent condition with case go for $585 on eBay, and it was a beauty. Workmanship and finish on a Euro Spector is definitely in the boutique class. The lowball price on a Euro ReBop is $1600-$1700 new, without case, and worth it. The prices seen on used ReBops qualify them as a steal. All Euro Spectors are built from neck blanks made in the Saugerties, New York, workshop. They are the same neck blanks as used in the USA Spectors. The craftsmen in the Czech Republic factory are some of the best in the world, and Euro Spectors are fully comparable to Warwicks made in Germany at 2X the price. Don't take my word for it. Look up some owner reviews.

Spectors have a tonal range that is awesome. Just because they are a favorite of the heavy metal crowd (like Rex Brown of Pantera), I think they have gotten a skewed image as to what they are. Leigh Foxx of Blondie has used a Spector for years, so listen to some of the later Blondie videos on Youtube. Also, my ReBop neck hasn't shifted a bit in the 8 years I have owned it. Do not underestimate graphite reinforcement in a bass neck.

So my advice is to pay less than $300 and find an OLP MM2 (4-string) or MM3 (5-string) while you search for your ultimate bass, or save up about double that amount and buy a used Spector ReBop or Euro neck-thru that will put you into a boutique class bass that costs about $3000 new from most boutique bass manufacturers. Spector is going to be around for a while, and their service is legendary.

Schecter and USA Peavey were also on my short list when I bought my ReBop. Owners of those are also in near universal approval when you read lots of reviews.

Also, learn to do your own setups. An OLP MM2 and a Peterson VS-1 virtual strobe tuner can give you a perfectly setup bass. You can easily get both on the used market for $300. Learning how to setup a bass or guitar is NOT rocket science, and I had rather do it myself and have it perfectly suited to myself. You have to do a setup check and adjustment EVERY time you change to different type strings, and running to somebody else every time I need that done is insanity since I am not a rich rock star with my own bass technician. A cheap OLP MM2 that is properly setup will beat anything else that isn't.
 
Kurosawa, my hands are actually quite large, but I'll check the Icon out if I can anyway - more selection isn't a bad thing!

Wow, large hands are a blessing. I once went to see a local bassist play. He had hands like hams, and that's one thing no amount of equipment can make up for--his thumb sound was HUGE.

I think I need a short scale for two solutions for special situations: faster cross-string picking, and a meatier-sounding G string for material that calls for hammering on that string.
 
Used ibanez Roadstars are excellent value for money. Look around for a used rb630, 650 or any other of the many models out there. Under 300 bucks all day long and no new bass in that price range can hold a candle to them quality or construction wise.
 
MBAnderson, "jazz" is a broad category. If you want a thumpy, near-acoustic sound, The Hofner Ignition (was called Icon) is a gem. Easy to play, and the hollow body gives great depth. My sound is almost all bass gain, no treble or midrange, 0.100" pick, with palm muting near the bridge. The short-scale neck makes for easy trips up and down the scales. The price is jaw-dropping for what you get.
 
Squier's are very good basses for the money, but USA Peavey's are great basses for about the same money. I have an Affinity P that is awesome, but I do admit, it is heavily modded. It sounded good before all the mods, so "Affinity Is Crap", is NOT my experience.

057912
 
Thanks all, this is great.
Thoughts on P-bass vs. J-bass? and CV vs. VM? I'm just wrapping up grade 12 here but I'll probably head down to the music store soon to try out some basses...

There's an Ibanez GSR205 on UsedVictoria for $200 right now; does anyone have opinions on the quality of this bass?

Howdy, neighbor. I'm on a 500 foot hill in Sequim and can see Victoria from my house.

Coincidentally, I just bought my first bass, since I sold my Fender Mustang about 25 years ago, for exactly $300.

Every time I saw something of interest I'd google it and end up here. I went for quality features and versatility of sound and after a couple of weeks found my bass. I found the search to be fun, YMMV.
 
I should add that if anything brings you across the Strait to Port Angeles EZ Pawn has a '92 Made in Mexico Fender Precision with a hard case on sale for $120.
If I came across that sort of deal in a pawn shop, I'd pick it up even if I didn't want it, and list it the next day on CL for $275 or best trade. It's a small amount, but who doesn't like to double their money or make a good trade deal... you could get any number of things for a genuine Fender P.