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Best Class D Bass Amps???

For me, the Phil Jones Bass D-400 is the best Class D I have ever owned. The ease of use to dial in just the right tone / definition with the EQ section to a room at first and then to a band with a keyboardist walking all over bass lines with their left hand stuck on middle C, or loud drummer or guitarist is my favorite thing. I also like the super easy compression that I can use just a bit of - if needed - when using my Lakland oassive and active 5 strings. The Phil Jones Bass D-400 may not have the wattages of some of the other Class D amps, but the easy ability to dial in a tone to cut through the mix even during a song makes the need for overall wattage much less important.
 
Myself personally have become addicted to the Gallien Kruger MB800. Connected to either one or both of my 410 cabs delivers awesome tone and punch. Whether I want dark or bright, middy or scooped. Whether I want my jazz bass to sound like a jazz, precision or a rick, I have no trouble getting the tones I need.

For me GK is and has always been the way to go.
 
My take away from this thread is that all of the class D amps are decent. It seems that they all have their fans and detractors. In my own experience the class of the amplifier makes virtually no difference in sound, but can make a significant difference in weight. There are obviously differences in output power, but that's not a function of the amp design. While power supply design and power management vary between designs, probably the biggest differences are all in the preamp and EQ voicing, and that's purely a matter of individual taste, and not related to amplifier class.
 
On TB, "Best" = "the one I have." Just sayin'.

I continue to be amazed by the latest Class D bass amps. The designs built on either the ICE 250asx or 700asc all have plenty of slam for my gigs. Preferences between the units depends on the bass being played and the tonal objectives. Since we all play different instruments with different tonal goals, we have different preferences. I am VERY happily using a Bergantino B|Amp, which just seems to have maximum flexibility while sounding phenomenal flat, a Mesa Subway Preamp into a Demeter Minnie 800d which kills it with passive Fender J's, and a Demeter VTBP-201 with the onboard 250asx which just sounds amazing with everything. Heck, we should be so lucky.
 
My take away from this thread is that all of the class D amps are decent. It seems that they all have their fans and detractors.

I have plenty and have had even more in the past. I like them, but honestly more for convenience that anything else.

In my own experience the class of the amplifier makes virtually no difference in sound, but can make a significant difference in weight.

The weight is undeniable, but I think there is a difference in sound, as I also believe there is between neodymium speakers and those made from other materials. I didn't used to think this, but then one day I plugged into an old class AB power amp I have, and it just sounded... better. Kind of like instantly, it sounded like the Class D's after I fiddle around with them a lot. IMO a good Class A/B is deeper, clearer and hits harder than any of my class D's. Here's another example:

I recently sat in at a jam, and plugged into an Aguilar 751. I'd never played through one before. Holy hell, it sounded good. The next day I bought a ToneHammer 500, expecting similar results. I hated the TH500 for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is that it sounded nothing like the 751.

Make no mistake, I'm a Class D convert, but I also think that in absolute terms, the A/B's sound better.
 
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If price is truly no object take a look at this genuine stereo, class D 1000 watt preamp from Wayne Jones in Australia. Ask Tom Bowlus here about his if you need a personal, users opinion on it.
WJBP-preamp2.jpg
A like for the flag in your avatar
 
How is this 1kW with no speaker outs?
From a practical standpoint, there is no way anyone would build something to produce a 1000 Watt output into line level or headphone outputs. Further, it appears (from the picture) that the power input is from some sort of power supply that provides two 18 Volts/1 Amp sources of power - if someone can get 1000 Watts of "bass output" from two 18 VAC and 1 Amp power inputs, they have just revolutionized the laws of physics/science as I understand them. I'm 100% certain this is just a preamp.
 
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I would love to get a B|Amp because of my love and use of Berg cabs. The tone signature for the cab a feature I like. Not sure if I would be as interested if I didn't own Berg cabs. I couldn't afford right away, so I got a Genzler instead, but I may move this direction eventually. Honestly, I'm waiting to see if Mr. Berg comes out with chassis v2.0 (sans USB replaced with Wifi updates?).
I wouldn't hold your breath on a v2.0 B|Amp arriving any time soon - I suspect there would need to be something far more significant than Wifi support to justify the costs of retooling and stocking another version. Besides, there's a reasonable chance that you'll eventually be able to connect to your v1.0 B|Amp (well, me to mine anyway, you gotta get your own) with Wifi through the USB port - there's already a Bluetooth B|Amp remote footswitch in the works. I can empathize with the desire for more "connectivity" but despite the chagrin of my inner geek, I've gotta admit that updating via USB actually works well. Some real time remote control would be nice, but again they're already heading down that path so it's just a matter of time. Honestly, there's no need to wait for v2.0.

Since this was all about class D amps, I'll throw in my $0.02, with an added disclaimer that I've not tried a lot of them, haven't done much with effects, and I tend to run my heads in "vanilla" mode - no overdrive, no compression, flat EQ, etc... For several years I've been quite happy with my TC RH450 driving some old school Bergantino 12" cabs. Now that I've had some time with the B|Amp, I continue to find it sounding better, just a bit more "alive" and "open" (admittedly subjective, wishy-washy yada yada YMMV...). However, for 1/3 the cost (you can pick up one used around $350) I think the RH450 does a very respectable job with Bergantino cabs, so if you're budget constrained and find a deal on some nice used Berg 12s, it might be a good choice. But be warned - once you're hooked, that B|Amp will be waiting, and it will be worth the wait...
 
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From a practical standpoint, there is no way anyone would build something to produce a 1000 Watt output into line level or headphone outputs. Further, it appears (from the picture) that the power input is from some sort of power supply that provides two 18 Volts/1 Amp sources of power - if someone can get 1000 Watts of "bass output" from two 18 VAC and 1 Amp power inputs, they have just revolutionized the laws of physics/science as I understand them. I'm 100% certain this is just a preamp.

I looked it up. It's a pre. Wayne Jones Audio's thing is POWERED cabs, and they make this pre to control them.

WJBP Bass Guitar Pre-Amp

I wish guys would read stuff before they post. Wastes time on confusion.
 
I looked it up. It's a pre. Wayne Jones Audio's thing is POWERED cabs, and they make this pre to control them.

WJBP Bass Guitar Pre-Amp
That makes more sense! I have never heard of that manufacturer and have no familiarity with the product line, but was pretty sure something was't adding up right. Thanks for providing the answer. :thumbsup:
 
I've had something like 8 or 9 D class amps in the last 8 years and I could easily have gigged the last 8 years with anyone of them.

Having said that, the amp that has lasted the longest and been played the most is my Aguilar TH500. It's currently seeing off my Mesa D800.
 
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The best $399 value would be the rumble 500, but the mesa seems to be the winner at its price point. Seems to have won in this case.

I really like the rumble sound and it is one of the under rated amps power wise. Rumble 200 can hang with other 350w heads and the 500 can hang with the 800w ones, at least the typically over rated ones (ahem, portaflex, ahem, cough).

I was never a fan of fender bass amps. Was an SWR guy (98 redface). The v3 rumble sold me, and I have been happy with mine for the last 2 years and it is just the 200 combo.
 
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I see some people are using a piece of foam to set their amps on but I have always used a piece of thin dense foam like you would find in a tool box drawer. very tough and will stand the test of time. most hardware stores should have this in stock. Husky 18 in. x 100 in. Premium Solid Drawer Liner, Black-DTC130001 - The Home Depot

to be honest I am more worried about pulling it off the top of the amp by tripping over the cord or doing my 6 foot leaps into the air, so I bought a wireless :D
I have a Mesa D-800 on top of a Barefaced BB2. My amp dances right off if I don't use something underneath. I bought a net like, spongy shelf liner from Home Depot. I cut it to match the amp footprint. Works perfectly.
 
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What's happened with gear seems to be what happened to a lot of stuff as the technology stabilizes. i.e. it all becomes just a commodity. It means that eventually the time will come where the amp you covet is the one that has the look you want because sound wise, they're all the same, or so close to it that it is an irrelevance.

I've seen that happen with a lot of stuff in my lifetime.

When was the last time you compared specs when buying a toaster?

I hear lots of differences between many of the current offerings.
 
Myself personally have become addicted to the Gallien Kruger MB800. Connected to either one or both of my 410 cabs delivers awesome tone and punch. Whether I want dark or bright, middy or scooped. Whether I want my jazz bass to sound like a jazz, precision or a rick, I have no trouble getting the tones I need.

For me GK is and has always been the way to go.

GK is not the be-all end-all by any means, but I really like the MB Fusion 800. Nice warm sound due to 3 12AX7's in the pre- section, while still retaining the GK bite if you want it. And power all day long. Some people don't like the GK brightness but the tubes smooth that out a bit and you can always take brightness OUT with EQ, but it's dang near impossible to add it IN with EQ if it aint there in the first place, IMO.
 
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