Best practice string trimming?

[TTA]

The E on my 4003 is much more dead than the rest, and checking my notes, i replaced them (dadarrio nickel) this summer! This has only had light use so it was surprising. I have been pretty lucky to avoid bad strings to date, but i wanted to review best practice. My goal is to limit core slippage.

I have also had a big expensive .170 f# mount dead, and given their cost and short life, i try to be meticulous.

1. remove old string, unwind it roughly straight.
2. measure new string to old. take note of location of 90 degree bend on the old string to insert into tuning peg.
3. bend new string 90 degrees at this point (i use metal pliers). If the old string had less or more winds on the tuning peg than i want, i will add or subtract. My goal is 2-3 winds.
4. make a second 90 degree bend of the new string at the point you intend to cut the string (tuning peg depth beyond your first bend)… aka length of old string.
NOTE: i have yet to cut the string and it now has x2 90 degree bends, or c shape. steps 3 and 4 are interchangeable. which is first matters less than two 90 degree bends before cutting to limit core slippage.
5. cut the final bend to remove unneeded string length. (i try to cut just after the 2nd bend to keep two bends in the string).

dead strings just happen, but in terms of trimming my strings, any further best practices?

 

[bucephylus]

FWIW IME, strings tend to lose their higher frequency characteristics primarily due to the metallurgical damage to the string core at the bend at the bridge saddle.

E strings and B strings on the 5 are particularly prone to this damage; since the saddles are set back further, creating a greater break angle at the saddle. Setups creating lower break angles will produce longer string life.

 

[TTA]

FWIW IME, strings tend to lose their higher frequency characteristics primarily due to the metallurgical damage to the string core at the bend at the bridge saddle.

E strings and B strings on the 5 are particularly prone to this damage; since the saddles are set back further, creating a greater break angle at the saddle. Setups creating lower break angles will produce longer string life.

that concept i am unfamiliar with. would it not be the same at the nut also?

 

[bucephylus]

that concept i am unfamiliar with. would it not be the same at the nut also?

Good Q.

The break at the nut, particularly on the resonant side of the string is not as extreme. The way you can tell location of structural damage is where the permanent bends remain when you dismount the strings. The cores are hardened steel; which becomes NOT hard after permanent deformation, even absorbing vibrational energy.

 

[TTA]

Good Q.

The break at the nut, particularly on the resonant side of the string is not as extreme. The way you can tell location of structural damage is where the permanent bends remain when you dismount the strings. The cores are hardened steel; which becomes NOT hard after permanent deformation, even absorbing vibrational energy.

so are my 90 degree bands before mounting causing issue? or is the key to prevent core slippage?

i.e. would a softer bend at the insertion to the tuning peg channel be more ideal?

 

[bucephylus]

so are my 90 degree bands before mounting causing issue? or is the key to prevent core slippage?

i.e. would a softer bend at the insertion to the tuning peg channel be more ideal?

IME, the crimps and bends on the headstock side of the nut have negligible effect on the vibrational characteristics of the string in the playing length.

 

[Zooberwerx]

If working with an unknown, I measure 3.5 inches / 4 fingers or one "Zoober" (globally-embraced unit of measurement) past the machine head post, bend in ONE 90 degree angle, and trim ~1/2 inch below that. This should give you the desired 3 wraps per post. When inserting and tuning up, I use my right hand to force the string (taper portion only!) so it conforms to the post. Set your witness points, adequate break angles, etc.

Note: each subsequent string can be a little longer as the diameter decreases and accommodates addt'l wraps.

Riis

 

[TTA]

IME, the crimps and bends on the headstock side of the nut have negligible effect on the vibrational characteristics of the string in the playing length.

silent marketing for fanned frets i guess. i notice they taper the thicker string winding at this position also.

learned something new today i guess.

 

[jthisdell]

Good tip to make a second bend and then cut at that extra bend.

 

[bylar13]

I have had a number of Rickenbackers 4003 & 4001.

A few suffered from having a “weak E string” as in lower volume than the other strings.

Sometimes giving the truss rod a 1/8-1/4 of a turn, backing it off, can help.

Also making sure the string is not twisted and fully seated in the nut can help as well.

 

[BassDaddySky]

I tend to orient the doubled up section of string at the ball end so it sits lower in the bridge saddle.

Have also remounted a bridge or two slightly longer to fight the extreeme break angle that lower tunings and fatter strings warrent. As long as all the saddles can be intonated properly that is.

Also, I understand hex core slips less than round core after being cut.
And at least one string manufacturers state they "flatten" round cores in the headstock/tuner zone to help fight the wrap wire from unwinding. And you can actually feel this flat spot on the lower strings.
They suggest you dont cut below this flattered section.

Pics from inside a pack of DR guitar strings

 

[TTA]

Good tip to make a second bend and then cut at that extra bend.

pretty sure it was not my idea, but i do not recall. most good ideas have been thought of before. i remember someone discussing core slippage, so i figured two bends would be insurance.

 

[TTA]

I have had a number of Rickenbackers 4003 & 4001.

A few suffered from having a “weak E string” as in lower volume than the other strings.

Sometimes giving the truss rod a 1/8-1/4 of a turn, backing it off, can help.

Also making sure the string is not twisted and fully seated in the nut can help as well.

more of a dead strings sound to my ears but good stuff to watch for. it just fell off a lot faster then expected, even for a big string.

 

[HelpImaRock]

I cut about 2 inches off the lowest string and wind up the rest. On every other string, I just cut the very end off where there's no silk.

 

[1String]

LOL, if I trim these, I'd never get them back on.

 

[GTHintz]

The E on my 4003 is much more dead than the rest, and checking my notes, i replaced them (dadarrio nickel) this summer! This has only had light use so it was surprising. I have been pretty lucky to avoid bad strings to date, but i wanted to review best practice. My goal is to limit core slippage.

I have also had a big expensive .170 f# mount dead, and given their cost and short life, i try to be meticulous.

1. remove old string, unwind it roughly straight.
2. measure new string to old. take note of location of 90 degree bend on the old string to insert into tuning peg.
3. bend new string 90 degrees at this point (i use metal pliers). If the old string had less or more winds on the tuning peg than i want, i will add or subtract. My goal is 2-3 winds.
4. make a second 90 degree bend of the new string at the point you intend to cut the string (tuning peg depth beyond your first bend)… aka length of old string.
NOTE: i have yet to cut the string and it now has x2 90 degree bends, or c shape. steps 3 and 4 are interchangeable. which is first matters less than two 90 degree bends before cutting to limit core slippage.
5. cut the final bend to remove unneeded string length. (i try to cut just after the 2nd bend to keep two bends in the string).

dead strings just happen, but in terms of trimming my strings, any further best practices?

My method especially with DR strings are to bend the string about 3/4 of the way to 180° which looks like a V. I cut at the first outer winding past the crimp and it's worked great every time. The end fits in the tuner hole and I haven't damaged a core ever. Both hex and round. Don't get too crazy about how many winds on each post. If you have about 2 or 3 full wraps you're fine. Some tuners handle more but I've seen some weird stuff on people's basses. Also I recommend some good quality side cutters. Klein, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Stanley, craftsman, even Kobalt from Lowe's. For the money they are much better than the stuff you'll buy from a music place.