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Double Bass bridge questions

eliascalles

eliascalles

Sep 12, 2013
351
832
Mexico
#1
hi all.

I just got my first bass, and I started a thread in the general forum with all my newbie questions etc (and got so much great info!), and I started a thread in the strings forum about strings (and on that advice got spirocore mediums) but I have bridge/setup questions and I think I should prob ask that here in the setup forum, keep things in their proper places for the moderators.

so the bass is a cheap (I assume chinese) bass, with a label inside that says Paris. It's new (though I got it used, it's clearly never been played or setup) and it has a non adjustable bridge.

I have access to a luthier in my area (rural mexico) and he says he has DB experience though I have no way of knowing how much. I've had him do guitar work in the past and he did fine with that, and I've seen his shop, so he's at least legit, though again no idea of DB experience and there are no DB players in this area (only tololoches)

so given my situation; cheap first bass, spirocore mediums on the way and a lack of easy access to parts or super experienced labor it seems my options are....

1- have him setup the bass with the existing fixed bridge and the new strings (spriocore mediums)

2- have him setup the bass with a NEW bridge with adjusters already built in.

3- try to have him install adjusters in the existing bridge.

I know this luthier, he's a nice guy but he's from a culture that tends to say "yes" to any and all questions about experience and skill set (you'd think with all the germans in argentina, some of that german caution would have rubbed off lol) so I can't assume I can really know his experience level ahead of time.

given these circumstances what would you advise for me?

Thank you!!
 
#2
The difficult part of installing a new bridge is shaping the feet to fit the bass's top; the contours of the feet must make solid/complete contact with the top. Since the existing bridge's feet are (I assume) already shaped, the least risky change is to install adjusters in that bridge. However, you may find that the existing bridge works okay without any change, so putting the new strings on is the first thing to do.

Of course, if the existing bridge is defective (warped), then option #2 is your choice.
 
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#3
The luthiers will show up soon, but I tend to agree w/ the distinguished gentleman from St. Louis. Installing adjusters should be easier for a woodworker w/ a drill press than fitting the feet would be.

Of course, there is A LOT more to fitting a good bridge than the adjusters and where it meets the top. You might want to look into the different profiles and how they may suit the music you intend to play. Again, a competent woodcrafter should be able to get you something that is a considerable improvement over what you have. Also, do some research yourself about proper bridge and soundpost positioning, and ensure that he takes measurements/makes a template to ensure that - at the least - he does't make it worse than when you brought it in.

My assumption is that your goal is to get a "good enough" bass w/o breaking the bank. A guitar maker should be able to add adjusters and shave down the nut - w/o the seemingly insurmountable hassle of trying to get to a bass wizard.

Would be good if the guy is able/willing to allot the time for you to work with him trying it out as he makes incremental changes - which would require repeated restringing.
 
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#4
AGCurry said:
The difficult part of installing a new bridge is shaping the feet to fit the bass's top; the contours of the feet must make solid/complete contact with the top. Since the existing bridge's feet are (I assume) already shaped, the least risky change is to install adjusters in that bridge. However, you may find that the existing bridge works okay without any change, so putting the new strings on is the first thing to do.

Of course, if the existing bridge is defective (warped), then option #2 is your choice.
Click to expand...

thank you, yes I am starting to see that adding the adjusters is actually less of a job than properly fitting the feet. I probably should have looked at what the bridge adjusters really are before making my assumption. I see now that they are really quite simple. Assuming the bridge is not warped (would that be easy to see while mounted?). I should probably do as you suggest and get the new strings/setup done and see how that works for me before making additional changes. I suppose for me as a real beginner the adjustable bridge feature appeals if only that I might experience different string heights in my search for what works best for me.

Ed S said:
The luthiers will show up soon, but I tend to agree w/ the distinguished gentleman from St. Louis. Installing adjusters should be easier for a woodworker w/ a drill press than fitting the feet would be.

Of course, there is A LOT more to fitting a good bridge than the adjusters and where it meets the top. You might want to look into the different profiles and how they may suit the music you intend to play. Again, a competent woodcrafter should be able to get you something that is a considerable improvement over what you have. Also, do some research yourself about proper bridge and soundpost positioning, and ensure that he takes measurements/makes a template to ensure that - at the least - he does't make it worse than when you brought it in.

My assumption is that your goal is to get a "good enough" bass w/o breaking the bank. A guitar maker should be able to add adjusters and shave down the nut - w/o the seemingly insurmountable hassle of trying to get to a bass wizard.

Would be good if the guy is able/willing to allot the time for you to work with him trying it out as he makes incremental changes - which would require repeated restringing.
Click to expand...

thank you! great advice. I will certainly try to be present for as much of the work as is possible, but not sure how well I"ll be able to control that. I'm def reading up on bridge and soundpost positioning so I might at the least be able to communicate correctly as I have the work done.

cheers!
 
#5
Well, earlier I commented that a standard plywood bass, if it's in good condition, will be less prone to seasonal changes in the action than a solid wood bass. It is very likely that you don't need an adjustable bridge. Even with my fully carved bass I have used my bridge adjusters only rarely, and that's with seasonal changes from summer in New England (humid) to winter in New England (very cold and NO humidity) to summer in Texas (hot and humid) to winter in Texas (cool and humid).

If I were you I'd start out by having your guy set the string height at the nut and the bridge (by deepening the grooves) and see how things go from there. Everything I've seen from actual luthiers here indicates that the preferred alternative is to fit a bridge and then cut it in half and install adjusters, not to use a bridge with "pre-installed" adjusters.
 
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#6
turf3 said:
Well, earlier I commented that a standard plywood bass, if it's in good condition, will be less prone to seasonal changes in the action than a solid wood bass. It is very likely that you don't need an adjustable bridge. Even with my fully carved bass I have used my bridge adjusters only rarely, and that's with seasonal changes from summer in New England (humid) to winter in New England (very cold and NO humidity) to summer in Texas (hot and humid) to winter in Texas (cool and humid).

If I were you I'd start out by having your guy set the string height at the nut and the bridge (by deepening the grooves) and see how things go from there. Everything I've seen from actual luthiers here indicates that the preferred alternative is to fit a bridge and then cut it in half and install adjusters, not to use a bridge with "pre-installed" adjusters.
Click to expand...

that seems very sensible, I will wait on any major bridge work beyond setting the string height (I have been given some preferred measurements already in my string thread). seems entirely likely I'll be fine with a non adjustable bridge.

I really appreciate the help!

cheers
 
#7
eliascalles said:
Assuming the bridge is not warped (would that be easy to see while mounted?).
Click to expand...

Lay a straight edge (ruler, edge of a piece of cardboard, etc.) across the top side of the bridge, from the E-string foot to the E-string side of the crown. Repeat with the G-string side. There should not be significant daylight between the bridge and the straightedge.

Straightening a warped bridge is a pretty simple job for a luthier.
 
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#8
AGCurry said:
Lay a straight edge (ruler, edge of a piece of cardboard, etc.) across the top side of the bridge, from the E-string foot to the E-string side of the crown. Repeat with the G-string side. There should not be significant daylight between the bridge and the straightedge.

Straightening a warped bridge is a pretty simple job for a luthier.
Click to expand...

thank you I will check that when I get home. As I recall the top of the bridge has a sloped profile (slopes downward) in the last inch or so before it contacts the strings. the bottom of the bridge is flat from feet to crown. I will check with a straight edge. I have this pic on my phone, but I will take a better one after tonights gig. IMG_3296.JPG cheers!
 
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#11
Ok. This is how I do it. The bridge used here has NOT been fitted to the top. It is merely used to show my procedure for fitting adjusters.
39494C1A-3D1C-4DF9-918D-E937A8FB848C.jpeg
12296409-333B-485A-B844-8DC294DC4343.jpeg


1) measure up from the foot the distance of the thread plus about 2mm. Each side must be exactly the same. I prefer threads down.
2) measure the width of the leg at that line and draw a vertical line 90 degrees to it at half the width.
3) transfer that to the bottom of the foot. I lay the bridge on my bench with the back down and use a square.
4) measure the thickness of the leg at line 1 and measure half of that distance, putting a mark at that point. This is the location of the hole at the bottom of the foot. Because the foot and leg taper you don’t want to center the hole at the bottom but you want it centered at the wheel.
Using a jig like this, or a square, solid block which the bridge is clamped to, use a drill press to drill the holes.

Tap for threads before cutting along line 1 and then clean everything up and tap again from the top. I apply parrafin to the hot tap to lubricate and partially seal the threads.

Note: the horizontal ledger lines align with line 1 (cut lines). If everything lines up, the holes will be straight and perfectly centered. The adjuster wheels should be centered with no gaps. The threads will be parallel to the back (tailpiece side) of the bridge.

I hope this is clearer than IKEA assembly instructions.
 
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#12
You might also consider what I did on my first bass - buy a second bridge and fit it yourself, using the old one as a rough template. That way if you screw it up you can put the old one back on :laugh:, and then you'll be comfortable enough to make adjustments as you need them. This assumes you have access to sharp knife, chisel, sandpaper etc. Your luthier may be totally competent for DB, but if he's not, then you might be better off learning yourself with advice on here. Just go really slow if you do, since you can't put the wood back on :thumbsup:
 
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#15
unbrokenchain said:
You might also consider what I did on my first bass - buy a second bridge and fit it yourself, using the old one as a rough template. That way if you screw it up you can put the old one back on :laugh:, and then you'll be comfortable enough to make adjustments as you need them. This assumes you have access to sharp knife, chisel, sandpaper etc. Your luthier may be totally competent for DB, but if he's not, then you might be better off learning yourself with advice on here. Just go really slow if you do, since you can't put the wood back on :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

this is an excellent idea!

james condino said:
Elias: Where are you in Mexico?

If it is someplace with a nice beach and good surf & I could find a safe way there, you could easily convince me to come by for a visit to help you out with that bridge!
Click to expand...

pacific side BCS. great surf. it's a total mess here with covid at the moment though prob not the best time to visit.
 
#16
I know that area. I traveled overland from Seattle to Cabo riding trains and busses on a nice slow vacation a number of years back. Beautiful coast, great people, nice surf, GIANT Cardon cactus, & fantastic 20 peso fresh Marlin local tacos...:thumbsup:

I remember doing grad school interviews over the telephone at the local cantina. In a longer conversation, that trip is how I wound up in North Carolina...
 
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#17
james condino said:
I know that area. I traveled overland from Seattle to Cabo riding trains and busses on a nice slow vacation a number of years back. Beautiful coast, great people, nice surf, GIANT Cardon cactus, & fantastic 20 peso fresh Marlin local tacos...:thumbsup:

I remember doing grad school interviews over the telephone at the local cantina. In a longer conversation, that trip is how I wound up in North Carolina...
Click to expand...

It's mostly as you remember it, though in the population centers it's grown dramatically in the last 10-15 years. Our valley not so much, I think in 10 years we've gone from around 60 people to maybe 70. the cardon are still giant and the fish is still cheap. Winter is approaching and the surf is picking up again, my son and I were out yesterday at the fun little left near us. pic is from out behind the house.

On a DB related note, there was a woman who played DB very well and used to come though the area in the winters, we played together a few times, and I just heard she'll be back in jan for a bit, so hopefully I can track her down and get some tips etc. I'm deep into the various repair/setup threads here on TB right now as it's clear to me that getting the most out of this instrument requires a deeper engagement than most. cheers!

26907813_727648620773956_6031905367749880720_n.jpg
 
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#20
Greg Clinkingbeard said:
Ok. This is how I do it. The bridge used here has NOT been fitted to the top. It is merely used to show my procedure for fitting adjusters. View attachment 4076097 View attachment 4076098

1) measure up from the foot the distance of the thread plus about 2mm. Each side must be exactly the same. I prefer threads down.
2) measure the width of the leg at that line and draw a vertical line 90 degrees to it at half the width.
3) transfer that to the bottom of the foot. I lay the bridge on my bench with the back down and use a square.
4) measure the thickness of the leg at line 1 and measure half of that distance, putting a mark at that point. This is the location of the hole at the bottom of the foot. Because the foot and leg taper you don’t want to center the hole at the bottom but you want it centered at the wheel.
Using a jig like this, or a square, solid block which the bridge is clamped to, use a drill press to drill the holes.

Tap for threads before cutting along line 1 and then clean everything up and tap again from the top. I apply parrafin to the hot tap to lubricate and partially seal the threads.

Note: the horizontal ledger lines align with line 1 (cut lines). If everything lines up, the holes will be straight and perfectly centered. The adjuster wheels should be centered with no gaps. The threads will be parallel to the back (tailpiece side) of the bridge.

I hope this is clearer than IKEA assembly instructions.
Click to expand...

Well done, Greg! You are definitely overqualified for that job at Ikea.
 
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