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Broken lead help

This should serve as an example to all as to why you shouldn't leave all your parts in a bin in an un-airconditioned work shop ;)

Basically, as it's been a while since I got these, I forgot where the leads go. What confuses me the most is the white wire that has come completely undone. Any help? Thanks.
 
stubi19 said:
This should serve as an example to all as to why you shouldn't leave all your parts in a bin in an un-airconditioned work shop ;)

Basically, as it's been a while since I got these, I forgot where the leads go. What confuses me the most is the white wire that has come completely undone. Any help? Thanks.

FWIW:

those look like DM Willpower's only with the glue removed. Hard to tell from the pic but looks like the white lead would go to solder point on the bottom right corner of the top pup. You should be able to take a meter and run it from the black wire to that spot and get continuity.

Parts should be kept seperated in a climate environment in plastic bags or drawer if you intend to use them again.
 
luknfur said:
FWIW:

those look like DM Willpower's only with the glue removed. Hard to tell from the pic but looks like the white lead would go to solder point on the bottom right corner of the top pup. You should be able to take a meter and run it from the black wire to that spot and get continuity.

Parts should be kept seperated in a climate environment in plastic bags or drawer if you intend to use them again.

Pardon my ignorance with a meter, but continuity as in a signal? I never have learned how to fully use my trusty old Simpson 260. Thanks for the reply.

Oh, and climate controll? I'm in Texas, our only climate is hot. Sometimes it gets hotter too ;)
 
stubi19 said:
Pardon my ignorance with a meter, but continuity as in a signal? I never have learned how to fully use my trusty old Simpson 260. Thanks for the reply.

Oh, and climate controll? I'm in Texas, our only climate is hot. Sometimes it gets hotter too ;)

Set your meter on ohm 1k and touching your leads should peg the needle - which means it's working. You should have two solder points on that half just like where the wires attach to the other half - and you should get the same reading, or very close.

Yeh, never lived there but have spent plenty of time all over Texas. Don't think I ever made it to El Paso. Won't be hot this winter.
 
luknfur said:
Set your meter on ohm 1k and touching your leads should peg the needle - which means it's working. You should have two solder points on that half just like where the wires attach to the other half - and you should get the same reading, or very close.

Yeh, never lived there but have spent plenty of time all over Texas. Don't think I ever made it to El Paso. Won't be hot this winter.

Thanks for the info. I'll try it after work tonite and let you know what I find out.
 
Well, good and bad I think. I can get readings all over various points, but I still can't figure out where to resolder the white and black leads.

It may be hard to see in the pic, but the black lead is in the center of the three solder points on one coil, and there is only the center contact point open on the other coil. I assume it goes there. There is a blue lead that is attatched to one coil, would it attach to the other coil or would it be the hot or cold out? All that leaves is the white wire that is totally undone. Ideas there? Thanks.
 
stubi19 said:
Well, good and bad I think. I can get readings all over various points, but I still can't figure out where to resolder the white and black leads.

It may be hard to see in the pic, but the black lead is in the center of the three solder points on one coil, and there is only the center contact point open on the other coil. I assume it goes there. There is a blue lead that is attatched to one coil, would it attach to the other coil or would it be the hot or cold out? All that leaves is the white wire that is totally undone. Ideas there? Thanks.

The readings at various points should be infinity (maxed readings) if you're getting them. Look at what the meter says when touch the two points where the leads are connected. When you get a match, that's your spot.

Typically there will be obvious solder points (flat small discs of solder) where the leads attach unless they attach up inside the pup.

Yeh that black lead did look like it came from the middle. I would look on the opposite side in the same place.

DM colors are geen white red and black so that apparently is no dimarzio unless the lead were changed. That would also explain the lead in the middle. Without the color code the only way I know is to wire it till it's right.