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budget poweramp?

#2
Invalid Link Removed

$469USD don't know about shipping to South Africa, though

- Power: 325W @ 8 ohms, 600W @ 4 ohms, 1000W @ 2 ohms
- Bridged Power: 1200W @ 8 ohms bridged, 2000W @ 4 ohms bridged
- Output Topology: CLASS AB
- Power Supply: Switchmode
- Frequency Response: +/- 0.5 dB 20 Hz - 20 kHz, +/- 1.5 dB 10Hz - 40 kHz
- THD: 0.03% @ 50% output, .1% 20-20 kHz @ 90% output
- Damping Factor: >500
- Slew Rate: bridged mode >50v/μs
- Sensitivity: (4 ohms, vms) 1.0 V
- Signal to Noise Ratio: Greater than 106 dB
- Input Impedance: >20K ohm balanced
- Speaker Guard™ protection circuit immediately disconnects your speakers
- Over-Current: protected
- Under-Voltage: protected
- Thermal: protected
- AC Input: 90-250VAC 50-60Hz
- 2RU
- 3.5" high X 10.5" deep X 19" wide
- 14 lbs
- Made in San Diego, California
 
#10
Verminaard said:
Invalid Link Removed

$469USD don't know about shipping to South Africa, though

- Power: 325W @ 8 ohms, 600W @ 4 ohms, 1000W @ 2 ohms
- Bridged Power: 1200W @ 8 ohms bridged, 2000W @ 4 ohms bridged
- Output Topology: CLASS AB
- Power Supply: Switchmode
- Frequency Response: +/- 0.5 dB 20 Hz - 20 kHz, +/- 1.5 dB 10Hz - 40 kHz
- THD: 0.03% @ 50% output, .1% 20-20 kHz @ 90% output
- Damping Factor: >500
- Slew Rate: bridged mode >50v/μs
- Sensitivity: (4 ohms, vms) 1.0 V
- Signal to Noise Ratio: Greater than 106 dB
- Input Impedance: >20K ohm balanced
- Speaker Guard™ protection circuit immediately disconnects your speakers
- Over-Current: protected
- Under-Voltage: protected
- Thermal: protected
- AC Input: 90-250VAC 50-60Hz
- 2RU
- 3.5" high X 10.5" deep X 19" wide
- 14 lbs
- Made in San Diego, California
Click to expand...

Am I correct in thinking that bridged means the power out you would get if you were using another amp connected to this one?
 
#11
No. it means you could run this amp either in bridged or unbridged mode.

Running unbridged -- with each side of this stereo power amp feeding into its own separate speaker(s) -- you'd get 600W *per side* into 4 ohms speaker loads.

OR, instead of running the amp's two sides independently, you could use both sides of the amp running bridged into a single speaker (or a single set of speakers) and get 2000W @ 4 ohms bridged.
 
#12
I was thinking about running the Crown XLS 402D for the same type of rating you described. It's 450w/channel at 4 ohms and I was going to start with just running one side for the one 4 ohm cab I have coming.

Would there be a reason to not do that? I don't know much about Crown's reputation. But it's $300 at guitarcenter.com, so... any thoughts?
 
#13
I would look for a used QSC, Crown, Crest, Peavey or Yamaha power amp. There are some other brands as well, but those 4 have worked tirelessly for me in the past. There are a lot of cheap amps these days, dont fool yourself thinking a Gemini or Numark will cut it. Get a for real sound reinforcement amp from a company that makes those as its primary line and it will do the job well. It's also worth mentioning that most SR entry level amps are more than up to the task of bass guitar. 2x400 into 8 ohms? Thats loud as hell.
 
#14
Just this weekend I picked up a Peavey CS800S in mint condition, in a strong framed 2U canvas carry bag for just £120 on Ebay. 600W per channel if I ran it down to 2 ohms (but I won't) or 260W per channel into the 8 ohms per side with the cabs I have. Took it to a rehearsal Sunday evening - absolutely great! I've been watching the listings for months to find this bargain though and drove 180 miles to London to test it and pick it up in person - but I'm a happy bunny. No more heads - pre-amp + power amp is definitely the way for me. My advice; look for a good old workhorse.
 
#16
Always buy more amp than you need! Remember, most all speaker mfg's say to run the drivers with twice the RMS stated wattage, to reserve headroom. That is a 500 watt cab, should be run with a 1000 watt amp!! Headroom is your freind.
 

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