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Building a cab, help with speakers?

Considering your choice of 60w @ 4 Ohm amp, I suggest you look for highly sensitive 4 Ohm drivers, and start from there.

+1

IME most of the old school drivers (Altec, JBL) have a high sensitivity. Don't aim for drivers with large xmax and a cab with a low tuning, they need amp power to get the air moving. Maybe your best bet would not be a 12" but a 15" driver like the JBL E140.
Btw. I own an ol' pair of Philips(Norelco for U.S) 12"drivers with whizzer cone, the AD12100/M8, they have a high sensitivity and sound exceptionally clear in the mids. I once build a very small closed 212 with these for practicing with a band, got plenty loud with a few watts but never used it on stage.
 
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+1

Btw. I own an ol' pair of Philips(Norelco for U.S) 12"drivers with whizzer cone, the AD12100/M8, they have a high sensitivity and sound exceptionally clear in the mids. I once build a very small closed 212 with these for practicing with a band, got plenty loud with a few watts but never used it on stage.

I used to play over a cab with one of those philips with a wizzer cone too, long time ago. Super clear sound, blew them up one night though.

To the OP: I think Will33 already advised you to use the eminence plans they provide on their webpage. If you're not that experienced I think that would be a good starting point too. The BFM cabs do offer a lot, but might also be a little complicated on a first build.
 
Small combo amps almost never double their power into 4 ohms relative to 8 ohms. Most likely your combo has something like 40w at 8 ohms. So, 60w will give you 1.8 db over 40w at 8 ohms. Point is that you will hardly notice the difference. To get useful loudness and low weight (cab) out of that amp you will need to sacrifice low bass. There is no way around it. A little bass peaking can go a fair way to making up for this (perceived tonal balance).

While neo drivers are lighter than ceramics, the weight of the cab is more important. You will need to use modern lightweight construction methods (as detailed in many Fearful build articles on this forum. Its pretty easy - you just have to know what to do (general ideas).

Your budget is limited, so the more expensive and capable neo drivers are out of reach - frankly, the Kappalite 3012 and 15 drivers offer no significant advantage over much less expensive drivers at the power levels you will be using. The drivers suggested below have enough power handling to allow a significant head/power upgrade.

The best compromise is using two Faital 10FE200-8 drivers ($50 each, 10 inch, 8 ohm) wired in parallel (4 ohm total), in a 2.5 cf sealed cab. Sensitivity will just break 100 db/w/m, and with an F3 of 66 Hz (F5 60 Hz). A mild 1.8 db of peaking will add some richness, while highs are well dispersed to about 5 kHz - there is some minor treble peaking, but less than most other drivers. The drivers are 5 lbs each, The cab should come in around 30-35 lbs total.

Alternatively, a pair of Eminence Beta 10a's ($75 each, 10 inch, 8 ohm) wired in parallel (4 ohm total) in a vented 2.5 cf box will have an F3 of 63 Hz (tuned to 58 Hz: two 3" dia x 2 3/8"long vents), with about 2.2 db of peaking - not at all excessive. This driver has a midband sensitivity of 95 db/w/m, so a pari should come close to 100 db/w/m (about a1 db less than the Faital). The driver has substantial peaking from about 1 kHz to around 3.8 kHz, lendinga fairly aggressive character to the upper mids and low treble, though les so off axis. Bass will be less tight than the Faital, but by no means soft or pillowy. Lots more 'character' built into the sound (relative to the Faital). The drivers weigh 6.8 lbs each so the cab will come in around 35-40 lbs.

More compact and lighter weight designs are possible with the Eminence S2012 ($145 each): 1.5 cf, vented (tuned to 52 Hz: one 4" dia x 5 1/2 inch long), yields an f3 of 63 Hz, with 2.2 db of peaking. This driver has fairly aggressive upper mids and low treble. This cab is smaller than the 210 designs and the driver is lighter (one 4.1 lb driver), so it should come in at 20-25lbs. Its drawback is in sensitivity: its native sensitivity is about 97 db/w/m, but it will be operating at 8 ohms, so will see about 40w max. The 210 designs will be somewhat louder.

A Eminence Beta 15a in 2.5 cf sealed yields an F3 of 55 Hz, with 2.8 db of peaking. This is balanced by moderately aggressive upper mids and low treble for a punchy, articulate tone. This will weigh about the same as the either of the 210 cabs cab, and will have about the same sensitivity as the S2012/112 cab.

These cabs (112, 115 or 210 designs) can be duplicated to produce a nice lightweight pair of cabs, allowing the use of one cab for less demanding gigs and the pair when more spl is needed.

The S2012/112 design is the lightest and most compact.

The Faital 210 will be the most articulate and least 'voiced' cab. Also, the loudest.

The Eminence Beta 10a/210 design is similar to the Faital, but with a 'vented' bass tone, and more character in the upper mids.

The Beta 15a/115 will have the most 'voiced' tone. It will sound 'bigger' than the others and its tone is very popular with players.

Choices...


To the OP, Astrosonic has laid out a good list of possibilities. Don't just glance over these, they are all good options. Each option could have it's own thread.


Francis Deck has a great tutorial on building a 12" speaker cabinet that uses the Eminence Deltalite 2512.
http://www.talkbass.com/threads/my-speaker-design-program-updated.1112353/

He also has an online speaker design program that you might check into.
http://www.talkbass.com/threads/my-speaker-design-program-updated.1112353/


Regards.
 
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Hey guys,
So I'm planning on building my own 1x12 cab, and here are the reasons why:

1)The current combo amp I'm using isn't giving me the volume I need, seeing as it's old and the speaker is garbage.
2) Ever since a semi-truck decided to change lanes into me, I can't lift like I used to. And I hate constantly asking my bandmates to carry my amp.
3) My budget is permanently tiny, and I've seen people make some great bass amps for a fraction of the cost of a commercially built one.

So I've been doing A LOT of research on the subject, about the relationship of wattage versus speaker sensitivity, the difference between ported and not, I've even looked into BFM and fEARless plans (I'm leaning towards the fEARless). I've been studying non stop for over a week, and it's just fascinating stuff.

But here is my problem; I had originally planned on buying the Eminence Basslite s2012 to use on my build, since it offered a nice frequency range, weight, sensitivity, and all for a nice price. But for the plans I'd like to use, the Kappalite 3012lf is recommend. On paper they seem very similar to me, but I've seen some comments on them that make them sound wildly different. Am I missing something? I like the basslite because it's in my price range, and from what I understand the Kappalite is best used with a tweeter, meaning even more money out my pocket. Can you guys help me figure this out?

If it helps at all, I'm planning on turning my old 60watt 4 ohm combo into a head to use with said cab.


It is good to learn from the Fearful designs, but you should also know why they used the parts.

It is a big jump from The S2012 to the S3012. Between is the S2512.

S2012 Basslite - 2"voice coil
S2512 Deltalite II - 2.5" voice coil. More sensitivity. More power handling. More $$
3012 HO Kappalite - 3" voice coil. Even more power handling. Even more $$.
3012 LF - 3" voice coil, power handling and $$ as above, but voiced for low bass, so it requires a mid.

At your power levels, the 3012 is not required.

Again, look at Francis Deck's tutorial. I think that is is square 1 for DIY.
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Duke Lejuene's thread on the "DIY coffeehouse tweeterless 110" might be good. I bought one from someone who built it with a Deltalite II rather than the default option (basslite? Would have to re-read). Haven't played it except on my own but it's louder than I thought a single 10" would be. Good mids and enough treble for a convincing old school slap tone. I wouldn't use it with a five string (though Duke mentions in the thread how you can alter the tuning frequency) but more than enough with a four for acoustic level gigs and two, would, I think handle some moderate level electric gigs (depending on you definition of moderate). Astrosonic's 210 also sounds interesting. Lots of options.

Im still curious what your combo amp is, and how close or far off it was from meeting your needs. (Don't worry, I've still got the old Gorilla 12" combo amp that I started with. It's 60 or 75 Watts, I believe - enough to set hearts racing in high school gyms in the 90s, though I did stack it atop the school's keyboard amp when I really wanted to bring down the thunder...you know, I should check how loud that 110 is relative to that!)