My thoughts exactly. You've said it.
And thank you guys for your help.
Now let's see how my luck turns out.
And thank you guys for your help.
Now let's see how my luck turns out.
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BVV3000 INFINIUM Trial
- Thread starter Saranac
- Start date
How is that 1960 infinium for gigs? Can you eq it enough for bass? Enough low end on it?
I actually haven't powered it up in a couple years maybe I'll dig it out this summer. It has Fender style EQ where flat is something like 0-10-0 so you have to get your head around that. It should be about as loud as a V4B. I've only run it at rehearsals where I use an Ashdown CTM-30 now - the 1960 was quite a bit louder.
Ah...i also have an Ashdown LB30 (basically the same as the CTM30 with added chrome and rudeness). How does the 1960 compare to it in terms of low end and eq wise? Can you get enough low end out of it? How responsive is the eq to affecting the bass tone? (am wondering if it will be voiced too high so the eq won't effect the freq's that matter in the bass?) Although if its anything similar to the LB30 most of the eq controls effect the whole signal so it should be ok.
Is the gain noticeably higher than the CTM30?
EQ is similar. The 1960 is a Marshall Plexi clone which is the same as a Marshall Superbass with slightly different EQ points. Like all amps you'd really have to try one for yourself to see if it works for you...
I took my BVV3000i along to a Basschat meeting last weekend. It was the first time out of the house and was powered up for around three hours of moderate to low volume playing and standby driving a pair of Bergantino HD210s.
Fairly early on one of the power tube replacement LEDs lit. Turning the amp off and on again resulted in the LED staying off for a couple of minutes after switching back on again but it always relit. It's possible this delay in indication was because the tube hadn't failed completely but was unable to be adjusted to the correct bias.
The amp continued to work okay but I also noticed that the occasional flickering of the tube failure LEDs ceased while the position 3 LED remained on. Maybe once the infinium circuit detects a bad tube it waits for the amp to be turned off and on again before attempting a rebias?
Anyhow, when I got home I replaced the suspect tube with a new one and everything returned to normal. I even noticed that the amp seemed louder for the same output settings but that could be my imagination (in a smaller room?) or perhaps the amp was only using two of the three pairs of tubes when one failed to bias?
The other basschatters present were pretty impressed with how much you get for so little when compared to other amps of a similar type.
Fairly early on one of the power tube replacement LEDs lit. Turning the amp off and on again resulted in the LED staying off for a couple of minutes after switching back on again but it always relit. It's possible this delay in indication was because the tube hadn't failed completely but was unable to be adjusted to the correct bias.
The amp continued to work okay but I also noticed that the occasional flickering of the tube failure LEDs ceased while the position 3 LED remained on. Maybe once the infinium circuit detects a bad tube it waits for the amp to be turned off and on again before attempting a rebias?
Anyhow, when I got home I replaced the suspect tube with a new one and everything returned to normal. I even noticed that the amp seemed louder for the same output settings but that could be my imagination (in a smaller room?) or perhaps the amp was only using two of the three pairs of tubes when one failed to bias?
The other basschatters present were pretty impressed with how much you get for so little when compared to other amps of a similar type.
This, probably.
That's exactly what Infinium is supposed to do, if one tube fails, take the pair out of the signal path to keep the amp functioning with less horsepower, and auto biasing a new tube and taking everything back to normal operation once the bad one is replaced.
Had the same experience with my BVV.
I then had replaced all tubes with JJs and everything worked fine again. For 3 hours. Then one of the JJs drew air due to a glass weakness in the bulb and blew a fuse on the circuit board so the amp needed to get repaired as I had no clue of tube amps back then.
Oh, forgot to mention: the LEDs lighting up from time to time only shows Infinium at work as it constantly measures the bias and corrects it when it deviates from the supposed value which is normal when tubes get hot during operation. So all fine.
Link Removed
Still listed on their website but at least over here no one seems to sell them anymore...not listed in any shop.
Just impulse purchased a used one of these from Guitar Center online for $319 plus shipping & tax, still came out under $400.
I have had 3 Behringer bass amps & a Bugera 1960 in the past with no issues.
I have been looking for another used SVT or V4B to throw on top my Ampeg 810 but haven't seen any great used deals locally or on the eBay. I'll report back in a week or so with my thoughts.
I have had 3 Behringer bass amps & a Bugera 1960 in the past with no issues.
I have been looking for another used SVT or V4B to throw on top my Ampeg 810 but haven't seen any great used deals locally or on the eBay. I'll report back in a week or so with my thoughts.
It's amazing to see how the Music Group went from being the most reviled music company that now many of their products are discussed regularly here on TB. I guess it took time for the company (like most newer companies) to work out the bugs and finally they're getting some at least positive discussion here on TB. Quite a difference from a few years back when Behringer/Bugera bashing was worse than any other brand. Disclaimer: I did own some Behringer bass gear but no longer. I now use Gallien Krueger and Audiokinesis.
I received my amp today. I put it on top my Ampeg 810 & powered it up. It showed a bad tube in position 3, pulled out the tube & noticed the tube plastic socket was busted off the tube. I pulled out the broken piece & swapped in the tube from position 6 & it showed it as good. I tried some old 6550s I had kicking around from an SVT in position 6 but apparently they are all toast.
I called guitar center & they will send me a tube to try getting the amp working properly.
The amp does work & sounds great even with the bad tube.
I like the top mounted handles even though it is not possible for me to heft the amp onto my 810 with them. They protect your knuckles from narrow spaces as opposed to the side handles on an Ampeg. The amp is lighter by a few pounds than an SVT.
Hoping I will have it up & running properly, I'll update when I get a new tube in it.
I called guitar center & they will send me a tube to try getting the amp working properly.
The amp does work & sounds great even with the bad tube.
I like the top mounted handles even though it is not possible for me to heft the amp onto my 810 with them. They protect your knuckles from narrow spaces as opposed to the side handles on an Ampeg. The amp is lighter by a few pounds than an SVT.
Hoping I will have it up & running properly, I'll update when I get a new tube in it.
Got mine for 4 years in 4 weeks from now, bought it on Dec. 4, 2012.
Still going strong, only event ever was a blown on-board fuse caused by a JJ6550 drawing air 3h after installing it.
Got the fuse replaced under warranty as I had no clue why it seemed to work fine but wouldn't get out of standby.
Put a new JJ6550 in and since then no issues whatsoever anymore.
That thing just keeps going, driving a 2x18" @4Ohms in a loud classic metal band's rehearsals twice a week and out on stage once in a while.
And man, you gotta love the tone it produces, got even a touch warmer and clearer after I swapped each and every tube (pre and power) for JJs, but even with the stock tubes it is great, they're by no means pure BS.
I was just curious what the difference would be, but TBH it was so small that if I had known before I would have just kept the originals in it.
Well, at least I have plenty as spare parts now...
Still going strong, only event ever was a blown on-board fuse caused by a JJ6550 drawing air 3h after installing it.
Got the fuse replaced under warranty as I had no clue why it seemed to work fine but wouldn't get out of standby.
Put a new JJ6550 in and since then no issues whatsoever anymore.
That thing just keeps going, driving a 2x18" @4Ohms in a loud classic metal band's rehearsals twice a week and out on stage once in a while.
And man, you gotta love the tone it produces, got even a touch warmer and clearer after I swapped each and every tube (pre and power) for JJs, but even with the stock tubes it is great, they're by no means pure BS.
I was just curious what the difference would be, but TBH it was so small that if I had known before I would have just kept the originals in it.
Well, at least I have plenty as spare parts now...
Good to hear Lindex. I hope my amp works out for me, I'm planning on changing the 12ax7s with new Tung Sol's maybe. I'll buy some spare 6550s if the amp works fine with the tube GC is sending me.
The amp sounds very similar to my old Ampeg Classic I had many years ago. Alot of time has passed since owning that amp. I found there was alot of bass frequencies with the bass control at noon on the BVV3000, I dialed it back to around 9 o'clock. I'm going to wait till it has all power tubes running properly to play with it again.
The amp sounds very similar to my old Ampeg Classic I had many years ago. Alot of time has passed since owning that amp. I found there was alot of bass frequencies with the bass control at noon on the BVV3000, I dialed it back to around 9 o'clock. I'm going to wait till it has all power tubes running properly to play with it again.
Well guitar center isn't shipping me a Tube. I was told to purchase a tube on my own, then bring them a receipt at my local guitar center & they'll reimburse me around $30 max. That's kinda lame but I don't want to return the amp on principle cause I don't think I'll find another tube amp as good for the price. Looks like Bugera stopped making these?
I would recommend that you get a known good tube in there as soon as possible so that you can give the amp a thorough testing just to make sure there isn't an underlying problem before any GC limited warranty period expires.
I had a tube with the same broken base post when my new BVV3000i arrived from France and another died after very little use. Bugera 6550B are made by Shuguang who have a fair reputation but I have bought a matched sextet for peace of mind.
I had a tube with the same broken base post when my new BVV3000i arrived from France and another died after very little use. Bugera 6550B are made by Shuguang who have a fair reputation but I have bought a matched sextet for peace of mind.
My amp tech has used GE tubes at $50 cash so that won't work for compensation from GC. I made some more calls & the store that sold me the amp online said it would ship me new tubes, I'm not holding my breath. I pulled another tube to swap & found another broken tube guide pin. The little plastic ends are a pain to remove from the socket. After trying in vain with needle nose pliers I used a bendy straw with a little suction & success. Now I need 2 tubes.
I replaced the tube with the missing guide in what I believed to be the right orientation & the amp didn't work, the standby blinked faintly. I pulled the 2 tubes & installed some old 6550s that showed bad on this amp & the amp worked but still shows the tubes bad obviously. The saga continues.
It looks like there are 2 different kinds of power tubes in the amp, original Chinese Apex Valve Art & some Electro Harmonix.
I replaced the tube with the missing guide in what I believed to be the right orientation & the amp didn't work, the standby blinked faintly. I pulled the 2 tubes & installed some old 6550s that showed bad on this amp & the amp worked but still shows the tubes bad obviously. The saga continues.
It looks like there are 2 different kinds of power tubes in the amp, original Chinese Apex Valve Art & some Electro Harmonix.
