Calling all Mechanics (shade tree and up!) - Chevy front-left axle stub removal

[lowfreqgeek]

Hey All,

What better place to ask this than the TB Off Topic forum? I guess I could go to a truck forum, but that doesn't sound fun.

I have a 2005 Chevy 2500HD truck 4wd truck with a completely failed front-left axle seal. The problem is that I can't get the axle stub out. I've done all the tricks I can find, including an axle fork and sledge, a 5lb slide hammer, long pry bar on top and tapping with various hammers from below, adding rotations in an attempt to recenter the circlip, etc. The only thing I haven't tried (for fear of cracking the diff housing) is a couple long bolts through the threaded holes in the flange to press against the diff housing.

I haven't pulled the diff out yet, but I don't have much confidence that I can solve the problem out of the truck given that every method of prying/forcing was completely ineffective. Maybe I'm wrong - I hope so - but I don't think the clip is accessible from inside as it's located inside the spider gear assembly.

It turns smoothly and there isn't any play in the bearing, but the seal is almost completely gone to the point that it just drips gear oil. If I can't solve it myself, my only other option is to put everything back together and get it to a shop, or remove the diff and get that to a shop. I need the truck and it's been parked for way too long waiting for me to get to this.

Suggestions and advice are much appreciated!

 

[Oddly]

Sounds like @Mike N could help out.

 

[Mike N]

There should only be a circlip holding that flange in place. Aside from to rotating the flange and hitting it from the backside, I'm not sure of any other way for removal.

 

[lowfreqgeek]

There should only be a circlip holding that flange in place. Aside from to rotating the flange and hitting it from the backside, I'm not sure of any other way for removal.

That's what I'm afraid of. The fact that I couldn't even force it out with an axle removal fork or slide hammer has me a bit worried. Everything I've seen says it should come out with some rotation and hammering from the back side, but that hasn't been the case for me. Maybe I've been too gentle with it, but my wrists are bruised from the slide hammer, so I wasn't being that gentile.

I had a gig last night and haven't looked at it since Sunday evening. Maybe I'll try again this evening and it will magically pop out.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

Can you bolt a chain to the flange and secure a "Come Along" to a stout attachment point (perhaps the rear bumper of your F150? ) and apply some pulling force while continuing to hammer it from the back side with a BFH?

 

[prndltech]

A 4lb mini sledge contacting a pry bar from the back side of the flange usually works for me. It will probably take several "repositionings" of the axle, rotating it slightly. The c clip/ring will most likely break and come out in pieces. It's common for these to get stuck on those trucks.

I'm assuming you unbolted the axle from the flange? Or are you trying to take it all out in one piece?

 

[lowfreqgeek]

A 4lb mini sledge contacting a pry bar from the back side of the flange usually works for me. It will probably take several "repositionings" of the axle, rotating it slightly. The c clip/ring will most likely break and come out in pieces. It's common for these to get stuck on those trucks.

I'm assuming you unbolted the axle from the flange? Or are you trying to take it all out in one piece?

D'oh! I only have a 3lb mini sledge! But that's what I've been attempting, in addition to the 5lb slide hammer bolted to the flange and the axle fork methods. If the clip breaks, will I most likely need to get all the pieces out from the inside (meaning the whole diff is coming out and getting opened up)?

The CV axle is completely removed and the whole LH front end is dissassembled to make a clear path for the slide hammer. It's ok, though - that whole side needs to be rebuilt. The RH side was rebuilt more recently, prior to my owning the truck. I didn't have any issues on that.

Thanks for the help!

 

[lowfreqgeek]

Can you bolt a chain to the flange and secure a "Come Along" to a stout attachment point (perhaps the rear bumper of your F150? ) and apply some pulling force while continuing to hammer it from the back side with a BFH?

Well, it's in my shop with nothing to anchor a come-along too! And my F150 doesn't run...

Ok, I don't have an F150. But my brother has had several of different generations and has an absolutely awful track record with them.

 

[grubdumpling]

I had so much trouble removing the wheel bearing/hub from my '06 2500 Ram on the driver's side, that when I needed to do the passenger side I took it to a shop. The one I did took an afternoon in the sun with more enthusiasm from a hammer than I thought the cast could take, but it came off eventually. Was absolutely not fun, and I was happy to pay to not do it again.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

It may be time to. remove the differential.

I recall hearing an old saying probably 50 years ago: "Never use force. Just get a bigger hammer".

I have owned many vehicles that cost me less than $100 to buy, and so since they were all headed to the junk yard, I had the opportunity to perform many difficult repairs on stuff that had decades of exposure to winter road salt. I am getting too old to turn wrenches anymore, but when friends were amazed at the repairs I made, (often in a gravel driveway) I would tell them that I would be a good shade tree mechanic, if I could afford a shade tree. My pride would not let me pay someone else to do the work.

I would also tell people that the reason I can keep a $35 car going for years is because I own $35,000 worth of tools.

 

[prndltech]

D'oh! I only have a 3lb mini sledge! But that's what I've been attempting, in addition to the 5lb slide hammer bolted to the flange and the axle fork methods. If the clip breaks, will I most likely need to get all the pieces out from the inside (meaning the whole diff is coming out and getting opened up)?

The CV axle is completely removed and the whole LH front end is dissassembled to make a clear path for the slide hammer. It's ok, though - that whole side needs to be rebuilt. The RH side was rebuilt more recently, prior to my owning the truck. I didn't have any issues on that.

Thanks for the help!

I've never had to remove the diff, you'll just see it in pieces. If you got a buddy, maybe try the slide hammer and the sledge on the pruner at the same time.

Cant say I'd recommend a come along, might wind up pulling it off the jack stands or whatever you got holding it up.

Don't be afraid to beat on the flange. Like I said, rotate it a little each time. It should come out!

 

[lowfreqgeek]

I've never had to remove the diff, you'll just see it in pieces. If you got a buddy, maybe try the slide hammer and the sledge on the pruner at the same time.

Cant say I'd recommend a come along, might wind up pulling it off the jack stands or whatever you got holding it up.

Don't be afraid to beat on the flange. Like I said, rotate it a little each time. It should come out!

I'll give it another go this evening. Maybe I can get a different angle on it and get more force into each blow. I'm probably not hitting it hard enough.

Good to know you've never had to remove the diff. There's a hard line from the oil cooler right in front of the top bolt that prevents it from clearing the bushing, so I was going to have to remove the oil line(s) to get the bolt out to get the diff out.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

I have a collection of round solid steel bar stock in various lengths (up to four feet long, somewhere around one inch in diameter) that I have used to hammer on things from a distance. It is sometimes easier to swing a big hammer where you have more room for a greater range of motion. Maybe you can have an assistant hold onto it, (some distance from the end you will strike, for safety), while you are able to stand up while you strike it.

What I am getting at is, would it help to transfer hammer blows from a position where you can swing the largest dead blow, or sledge with more enthusiasm than what you are able to muster within the confines of the space where the stub axle is located in the chassis?

Or, how about a pneumatic air hammer? You could cut the end off of a chisel type tool bit to make it flat so as to avoid any cutting a chisel type tool would do.

 

[lowfreqgeek]

I have a collection of round solid steel bar stock in various lengths (up to four feet long, somewhere around one inch in diameter) that I have used to hammer on things from a distance. It is sometimes easier to swing a big hammer where you have more room for a greater range of motion. Maybe you can have an assistant hold onto it, (some distance from the end you will strike, for safety), while you are able to stand up while you strike it.

What I am getting at is, would it help to transfer hammer blows from a position where you can swing the largest dead blow, or sledge with more enthusiasm than what you are able to muster within the confines of the space where the stub axle is located in the chassis?

Or, how about a pneumatic air hammer? You could cut the end off of a tool bit to make it flat so as to avoid any cutting a chisel type tool would do.

I think (part of) my problem has been an inability to swing the hammer with enough force. The truck sits high, but I'm still working on the ground. Holding a pry bar with one hand and pounding it with the other while laying on my back or side hasn't been very effective. Maybe I can convince my wife to get under there with me, or wait for my son to be home.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

Whatever you do going forward please take safety into consideration as the first priority.

 

[Bighands Bill]

I haven't worked on a Chevy 4X4 front end, but could you preload the axle by connect a chain to the axle stub and hook the other end at least 10' away with no slack. Then lean something like a 4' or 5' long log, maybe 50LBS on the chain half way between the axle and the other end. This will keep constant force pulling on the axle while you apply the old coefficient of friction to the axle. Which basically means it takes more force to get an object to move than it takes to keep it moving. It's why an impact gun usually works better than a long breaker bar.
When I replaced the CV/axle on my Honda, it was the spring ring retainer I had to fight. Good luck.

 

[logdrum]

Are you at this point already?

Or you are trying to remove this, I thought for that you push it from the diff housing ? I only have Fords, no Chevy experience and my only IFS truck is an old 97

 

[lowfreqgeek]

Are you at this point already?

View attachment 7536907

Or you are trying to remove this, I thought for that you push it from the diff housing ? I only have Fords, no Chevy experience and my only IFS truck is an old 97

View attachment 7536908

I'm trying to remove the axle stub as shown in the first picture. On the Chevy 9.25", there is no access to push it out from the back/inside the diff. Well, very limited access because of the cross pin shaft in the spider.

 

[Wyvern]

Two pry-bars, move in tandem.

Sometimes hammering or prying on one side will only make that clip hold on harder, if you pull straight or do a little side to side dance, it will allow that clip to squeeze together and pull out.

I worked on a fleet of mid 2000's Chebbys, they rust up like crazy, but they are excellent trucks.

 

[logdrum]

I'm trying to remove the axle stub as shown in the first picture. On the Chevy 9.25", there is no access to push it out from the back/inside the diff. Well, very limited access because of the cross pin shaft in the spider.

Oh okay . I know my son has a 2 prong fork for removing that, but he has most of his tools in Placitas, where his friend has a lift. Are you set already? How about a crowbar or something similar? Counter Intuitive, sometimes you have to hit it inward first before loosening/pulling it. Good luck, I am in Corrales BTW